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Hi Ronald. What scanner are you using? I have a cheap 110 obd unit, an autel eu705 (or something ) and a pc with bmw 1.4.0 programme on it. all give me an option to reset adaptations in the dme menu.

Thanks for the reply Dave, I’ve managed to get as far as the new cover on today. Couldn’t find my 1/4 to 3/8 torque adaptor to complete the cover so had to order another one. what a job to do, lots involved like you said. my gasket had tons of cracks in it so I’m not surprised it leaked.

Good morning thank you for reaching back to me I don’t know how to reset the perimeters and adjustments unless it is only to Disconnect the battery for 15 to 30 minutes is that something that I need to do thank you please let me know 🙏

when I put the new sensor in I only cleared the codes with my scanner did I have to disconnect the battery for 15 to 30 minutes so the computer would adjust to the new sensor I don’t know about any adjustments thank you for getting back to me

My thought is that the maf sensor is working correctly. did you reset the adjustments and parameters after replacing it? I agree with @Greydog. check the inlet pipe between the maf sensor and the throttle body for any cracks, especially on the elbow part. Throttle body could also be the issue. my x5 has the 3.0i engine and was all over the place with idle and cutting out etc. it was the throttle body which was faulty , but while I replaced it, I found the inlet pipe had little splits in it at the elbow folds and was leaking in air, confusing the mixture as the new maf sensor was saying one thing and the air ratio was another. The old maf sensor was reading a lower value and the engine had over compensated for it. Check for splits, reset the values and see where it goes.

Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum I would think you need a feed from the Boost relief valve. Are there no instruction with your kit ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the engine section/inlet/turbo Dave

Morning JIm If memory serves your car has twin turbo's a small one for low/mid range and the bigger one below for mid/top end boost. The vacuum drive shifts boost to the larger turbo, so when you felt for any wobble which turbo were you feeling? and which side remember the exhaust side really does take a battering. From your description the Vacuum drive is working but the flap it operates into the large turbo or the turbo it's self needs some investigating Those are my thoughts Dave

@phill Thompson How did you get on with the Z3 - did you buy it ?

Morning Ronald Welcome to the Forum First it would be unlikely the a Starter would cause this fault code as the starter is underneath and the issue you have is at the top. A fault code indicates a problem it isn't necessarily the cause, start by looking for leaks in any of the Vacuum lines and hoses on the Inlet side after 13 years the hoses on your car will quite probably be dry and cracked in places. Also check all wiring and plugs if cleaning use a good electrical contact cleaner. The replacement you brought, is it correct for your model ? As an after thought check the engine mounts I am not sure whether your mounts have a vacuum link Dave

I have a problem with my 2007 525i erratic idle I scanned the vehicle came up with code 1415 replaced the MAS New from BMW it didn’t work service engine light went light came on I put my old Sensor in no light on just erratic idle need help please. Just frustrated I did have the starter replaced about 2 months ago I was at work and I couldn’t do it myself I think the problem may be there but repair facility refuses to look into it for something they might have been missed thank you

Bmw 635d soft top for sale 85000 miles on clock

I'm hoping someone can give me a few pointers. I have a 2012 E84 25D and recently I've been getting the following intermittent codes: 4862 Air System, Air to EGR Mass Flow, Plausibility 4873 Exhaust-Gas Recirculation Cooling, Plausibility 4530 Charing Pressure Control, Control Deviation The car drove fine, no loss of power. I removed the EGR and Cooler to check them and there was very little carbon and both clear. Both were replaced around 10k miles ago under the BMW recall. The car has now gone into limp mode and is making a weird noise when reved. It's quite at idle but makes a lowish pitched drone or whining noise when the engine is reved. It's not a high pitched whine that I would associate with the bearings in the turbo. I had a fondle of the turbo spindle when I had the intake pipe removed. It spins freely and I cant feel any play in the bearings. The car has only done 55,000 miles and has a full service history with oil changes every 4,000 miles so I'm hoping the turbo hasn't failed already. I thought I'd try and check out the control system first. I looked at the parts diagram for the turbo vacuum control and started trying to check things. Connected a vacuum gauge on the supply side and the vacuum appears steady so I don't think there is a leak on the supply side or vacuum tank. I removed the vacuum line from the part labelled Vacuum box (15) on the parts diagram and the droning/whining noise stops. I connected a syringe to the Vacuum box and as i draw a vacuum the noise returns. Turned the engine off and used the syringe to draw a vacuum while feeling the actuator arm under the vacuum box and the arms moves/returns freely when a vacuum is applied/released. I can't work out what this vacuum box operates. The actuator arm passes down through the exhaust manifold and is connected to the turbo. Can anyone tell me what this does or suggest any next steps to try and diagnose the problem? Thanks Jim

Hey im trying to fit a boost gauge to my bmw 1 series 116d , 200bhp And wondering if anyone has done before and could show us where and what hose to cut hose and fit extension and run a hose through fire wall to the gauge.

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁 Dave

Hi Tino Just re-checked and you are correct 3 - Ethernet RX+ Confirmed 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal Confirmed 11 - Ethernet RX- Confirmed 12 - Ethernet TX+ Confirmed 13 - Ethernet TX- Confirmed I think your assumption on the ZF trans could well be right also if the resistor is toast it could well screw up the Diagnostics Keep digging Dave

Okay so we can rule out the Can protocol being different then. And lol, yes the germans do like to be in control 😂 Well if most Japanese E90's are pinned like this then BMW definitely had a means to connect to these vehicles with just this amount of pins present. If it's supposed to be 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 16, and the one i'm working on only has 4, 5, 6, 8, 14 & 16 then is there a chance that the missing ones are the key to allowing other scanners to connect to the vehicle? Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the function of those missing pins (3, 9, 11, 12 & 13) are: 3 - Ethernet RX+ 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal 11 - Ethernet RX- 12 - Ethernet TX+ 13 - Ethernet TX- But so I hear that these are non standard pins and should not interfere with diagnostics. Ahh the diagram you pulled for 2007 only is the same pinout on one of the parts cars I have. The one with the ZF transmission. So there's a good chance that for that particular year, any E90 320i that came with a ZF trans probably had that pinout instead of the one were looking at now has. I found out that the capacitor is actually a resistor. Since that is the case, I wonder if it's interfering with diagnostics? I will do some diagnostics on my end to see if there is a module that is causing the issue. Many thanks again 🙏

Morning Tino I don't think they use a different Can protocol as Dealers still need to communicate with BMW from time to time and we know how the German mind like s to be in control 🤣 The Can protocol should be D can. Wiring Diagram shows 2.0i 2007 on as Pins 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 all populated colours as follows 3, Red 4, Brown 5, Brown/black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 8, Blue/Yellow trace 9, Black 11, Blue/Red trace 12, Green 13, Red/Green trace 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace My wiring diagrams for the 2.8i are exactly the same. Pre 2007 (2004 up to 2007) It shows Pins 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 16 populated Wire colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace Just found another Diagram marked 2007 only shows pins 1, 4, 5, 7, 9, 16, colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 16, Red/Yellow trace (not sure if this helps or hinders) Again as far as I am aware Left and Right hand cars are the same If it is JBE issues they are easy to swap but will need a Diagnostic scan capable of registering the replacement (I have INPA/ISTA) BMW make a big deal of it (can only be done by them) but as always it can be done I have changed a few Footwell modules and Junction boxes Good Luck Dave

Well hello again Dave 👋, I'll start by thanking you for trying to assist me once again! But yes, I sure do love a challenge 😂 Okay so to my understanding pins 3, 8, 11, 12 & 13 are missing? I was told by another fellow that those missing pins are only present if the vehicle has a CIC screen, is that correct? I'd imagine the pinout both you and the other fellow provided me with for a 2008 320i are the correct ones for this particular Japanese model, probably because like you say, they are not able to accommodate bluetooth scanners. I do have a scanner with external power, but that is also not able to make a connection with the vehicle. Are you able to pull a pinout of the OBD II port for a 2008 328i that is left hand drive? Because those do support bluetooth scanners & American style scanners. I'm curious to see what the difference is, maybe a pin outside of those 5 missing pins is the reason why I'm not able to fully connect to the vehicle. I already checked the Fuse Panel Behind The Glove Box, all fuses are fine and none are missing. Spent like an hour confirming that. I haven't checked the DME for corrosion yet or the fuses inside that same box. I'll be doing that shortly. What is your take on this Dave? Is there maybe a missing wire preventing communication? Maybe the ignition 12+ volt power? Is it possible that the capacitor that pins 6 & 14 attach to is causing some kind of issue? The plastic surrounding the capacitor has a BMW logo on it so it is factory for sure, just not sure what it's purpose is. Or, is it possible that the Japanese E90's use a different CAN protocol from the standard one the other E90's use? I thought BMW standardized their CAN protocol after the E46 though. Could also be a bad JBE hmmm

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum Best case check the Rocker cover Vent pipe easy to replace Worst case Cylinder Head Cover gasket needs replacing Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the Search box it will bring up your Model Then in Engine look the Cylinder head cover. Use the part numbers to make sure you get the correct parts The job is a DIY proposition but there is a huge amount of trim and engine bay bracing to take off before you get near the nitty gritty 😅 Top tip take pictures so you make sure it all goes back where it's meant to. Tools needed a good socket set (3/8 and 1/4 drive) trim clip removal set and buckets of patience 😁 I believe there are a couple of good videos on You tube that should help Good Luck Dave

Morning Tino You really do like a challenge buddie 😅 First I remember reading somewhere that the Japan cars didn't take Bluetooth OBD readers don't know for sure as I have never worked on one. My wiring diagram doesn't show anything specific for Japan ? 1st pic above my wiring diagram shows Pin 16 red/yellow trace Pin 6 white/yellow trace (D can H) Pin 14 white/blue trace (D can L) Pin 4 brown Pin 5 brown/black trace Pin 3 Red Pin 11 blue/red trace Pin 8 Blue/yellow trace Pin 12 Green Pin 13 Orange/green trace Pin 9 Black I am thinking Pin 3 Live pin 16 shows a 5amp fuse The diagrams I have 2007/2009 and 2009 on both seem to be the same Hope this makes sense Dave

Hello there 👋 I have a 2008 E90 320i From Japan and am having some issues with the OBD II Port. I’ve noticed when I try to scan, the scanner sometimes establishes a connection and then while scanning for codes it just goes blank like it lost power. I’ve tried multiple scanners (BlueDriver, OBD Link CX for BimmerCode & Carly) and none can make it to the end of the canning process. So I got to digging and pulled the OBD II port to check pins and wires. Also found a pinout online for E90’s to make sure it was pinned correctly. I believe the pinout I found was: Pin Signal Description 1 +12V Ignition (In run Or Start) 4 CGND Chassis Ground 5 SGND Signal Ground 6 CAN HI CAN High, J-2284 7 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE Engine (ISO-9141 and ISO-14230), Automatic Transmission Diagnostic (In Some Models) 8 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE IKE/KOMBI, ABS, ABS/ASR, ABS/ABD, ESP, DSC, Airbag And Other Electronic Equipment 9 TD/RPM Engine Rotation Speed 14 CAN LO CAN Low, J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE L-Line Of ISO 9141-2 And ISO 14230-4 16 +12v Battery Power So I pulled my OBD II Port and I found that pins 1, 8 and 15 are not present. I also found this rectangular box with some type of capacitor in it attached to the harness with the two can bus wires going through it. I also have two parts cars from Japan with slight variations in spec, totalling 3 E90’s that I have: Year Production Date Engine Code Transmission Spec Main - 2008 10/2007 N46B20B GM Cloth Electric Seats Non Heated Parts - 2008 08/2007 N46B20 ZF Leather Electric Seats Heated Parts - 2010 12/2009 N46B20B GM Cloth Manual Seats Non Heated So I pulled the OBD II ports on those as well to check if they were the same, and oddly enough the other 2008 model was setup differently but the 2010 model was setup the same as my white 2008 model. Maybe the transmission used plays a roll on the OBD II pinout seeing that my white 2008 model and the 2010 model both use the GM trans? The 2008 parts car doesn’t have the box with the capacitor in it. Below I’ll show you the pinout for each vehicle: White 2008 w/GM Transmission: Silver 2008 w/ZF Transmission: Dark Blue 2010 w/GM Transmission: Any idea what I need to do to get the port to work? I’d imagine I need to start with adding a +12 Volt signal from the ignition switch.

Hello there 👋 I have a 2008 E90 320i From Japan and am having some issues with the OBD II Port. I’ve noticed when I try to scan, the scanner sometimes establishes a connection and then while scanning for codes it just goes blank like it lost power. I’ve tried multiple scanners (BlueDriver, OBD Link CX for BimmerCode & Carly) and none can make it to the end of the canning process. So I got to digging and pulled the OBD II port to check pins and wires. Also found a pinout online for E90’s to make sure it was pinned correctly. I believe the pinout I found was: Pin Signal Description 1 +12V Ignition (In run Or Start) 4 CGND Chassis Ground 5 SGND Signal Ground 6 CAN HI CAN High, J-2284 7 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE Engine (ISO-9141 and ISO-14230), Automatic Transmission Diagnostic (In Some Models) 8 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE IKE/KOMBI, ABS, ABS/ASR, ABS/ABD, ESP, DSC, Airbag And Other Electronic Equipment 9 TD/RPM Engine Rotation Speed 14 CAN LO CAN Low, J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE L-Line Of ISO 9141-2 And ISO 14230-4 16 +12v Battery Power So I pulled my OBD II Port and I found that pins 1, 8 and 15 are not present. I also found this rectangular box with some type of capacitor in it attached to the harness with the two can bus wires going through it. I also have two parts cars from Japan with slight variations in spec, totalling 3 E90’s that I have: Year Production Date Engine Code Transmission Spec Main - 2008 10/2007 N46B20B GM Cloth Electric Seats Non Heated Parts - 2008 08/2007 N46B20 ZF Leather Electric Seats Heated Parts - 2010 12/2009 N46B20B GM Cloth Manual Seats Non Heated So I pulled the OBD II ports on those as well to check if they were the same, and oddly enough the other 2008 model was setup differently but the 2010 model was setup the same as my white 2008 model. Maybe the transmission used plays a roll on the OBD II pinout seeing that my white 2008 model and the 2010 model both use the GM trans? The 2008 parts car doesn’t have the box with the capacitor in it. Below I’ll show you the pinout for each vehicle: White 2008 w/GM Transmission: Silver 2008 w/ZF Transmission: Dark Blue 2010 w/GM Transmission: Any idea what I need to do to get the port to work? I’d imagine I need to start with adding a +12 Volt signal from the ignition switch.

Got the dreaded oil smell every drive on my m4. little bit of smoke from engine bay but not all the time, no cel, no changes in performance looking at doing the job myself and wondered which rocker cover others went for and from where. I’m based in the UK so not able to use fcp. any tips or essential tools I will need to make the job easier

Thank you Dave. I am sure that someone online was selling the resistor slider the one that i have in the Pic. Just need to find that Thanks

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one Good Luck Dave