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Thanks Dave, it's just noticeable at that lower steady speed, higher steady speeds it doesn't seem t happen, there is an occasional hesitancy to accelerate when 'floored' mind. Think the scan step is required!

Morning Rob 1st The temperature sender in the water pump housing is dual purpose it sends a signal to the DME which interprets that for both Oil Temp and Water Temp I would change it when changing the Thermostat If the Aux Water Pump isn't recirculating coolant, (1) is the Coolant level correct (2) You can hear the Aux Pump running but it doesn't seem to be moving coolant so check the Coolant valve on the nearside inner wing (not uncommon for these o fail) Is the noise the Vacuum pump (constant) or the Emissions air pump stops after a short while? If all sensors are operating as they should there could be a problem with the cluster it is better to repair the original if you can there are a few companies who do it ECU Testing or Cartronix come to mind. Good luck Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum If you drop down a gear or two to increase revs what happens? When was the car last serviced ? A misfire could be Coil Pack failing Plug failing a vacuum or air leak on the inlet, I would start with a diagnostic scan and go from there. Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum Very pretty You should find the service history in the iDrive/Connected Drive or a good BMW Dealer should be able to help (they may well charge) They will need proof of ownership and your Vin With your car only covering 27k and extended service intervals now common place it may be it has only had it's PDI As for Warranty talk to BMW service if your car has a BMW history they should offer an extended warranty (not cheap but comprehensive) If they can't help then search the open market. ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Hi Guys Big believer in owners clubs, I've just bought a 69 reg 240i with only 27K from Evans Halshaw, I am loving it but need to sort out missing service history and get a proper warranty in place. I'm retired and have had various nice cars, Boxster, Golf R, Mazda MPS, but just decided I wanted a last hurrah while I'm still fit! So far I am loving this car, it is so quick and smooth and apart from a tiny ding in boot, I can't see a mark on it. Please forgive me if I ask lots of stupid questions. Dave

My car exhibits a lumpy performance at steady lower speed (around 40 mph and 1000 rpm) anybody had this?

Hi Dave thanks for the reply, it’s dawned on me the dash temp gauge is oil temp so I need to locate that sensor! the fan visible behind the rad does turn,I saw it working after I warmed it up but I haven’t heard the electric fan cut in. I have bought a replacement thermostat to fit but haven’t as yet i also found a video showing how to test the auxiliary electric water pump by holding the throttle down … mine appears to make noise but nothing come back into the header …. also I can’t seem to get the water temp displayed on the dash using the secret menu hack it’s like the unlock code isnt accepted when I select option 7 it just goes back to displaying outside temp. my vacuum pump is also a bit noisy ( sounds a bit like a wheel from a children’s bike stabiliser) other than that noise the engine sounds perfect and the oil is clear of any sludge.. IMG_2807.MOV

Morning Leena Welcome to the Forum Have you talked to BMW UK ? Certainly if the car has gone through 2 services at a BMW Dealer and they didn't fix the issue !! I would also contact Rogue Traders Dave

I have the exact same problem. Mine is a 225Xe Auto. Amber engine light has been on for some time, 2x service at the BMW garage said it is sensor problem no concern. 4 weeks ago the steering started shuddering and now sound lime a tractor motor. Took to the same garage and they have quoted >10k. Mileage is just about 100,000, 2018 make. I feel cheated by such a big name brand, the garage should have a realistic pricing. The repair is almost the price I paid for the used car. Any ideas. Should I move on an sell for scrap.

Hi Bob, Just make sure you check out the specs. If it is a 1.5l engine it's probably a MHEV, in which case no room underfloor for a spare wheel. Secondly, if that is the case it's built on the same platform as my 220i Active tourer which has a quoted 0-62mph of 8.2s. That's a bit misleading as I think that time is achieved by using the 'Boost' function, where the energy stored in the battery is suddenly dumped into the drive train for a 'Launch' effect. I don't find my 220i to be slow. It picks up quickly from 50 to 70(and plus) on the motorway if required. Sure it's not going to be up there with cars that have 200hp or more. But then if you're thinking of an X1 you are obviously more interested in practical luggage carrying than speed. Remember most of the average 'bloggsmobiles' have a 0-62mph time of 10s+. I think the X1 with the 1.5l engine has a time of 8.3s, and a top speed of 138mph so whilst not high performance it's no sluggard. On another note, just try to keep the cost, when new, below that £40k threshold, after which annual car tax rises to £590 per annum for the first 5 years for the second licence. In the end, only a test drive will tell you if it suits you. Good luck

Thanks really appreciate the information. Didnt realise the X1 had a 3 cylinder engine with the 1.5. Surely thats underpowered for a car of this size?

Hi Paul Well 1 down main prop shaft and centre bearing to check next also diff mounting bush in case the diff is moving under load. The air suspension takes up any slack in bushes which makes finding worn stuff harder Great teachers these cars 🤣 like they say every days a school day Good luck Dave

Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum BMW use 2 sources for signals to the temperature gauge which uses an average from the 2 First is the Temperature sender in the water pump housing (and yes change the Thermostat while your there) the second temperature sender is in the Lower Radiator hose. The lower one also provides signal for the Fan, normal operating temp should be between 75C and 115C (the needle in the middle of the gauge) I have an infra red thermometer and measure at the top hose Running the V8's to hot can cause all sorts of issues non of them are cheap to fix, the fact that your heater is blowing cold would lead me to check the level and quickly low coolant is a likely cause as is an air lock. Remember your trans cooler and engine oil cooler are linked to the Rad. If topping up get the correct coolant and dont use just water. Good Luck hope you catch it before any damage occurs Dave

So, the rain let up for a short while and I had the opportunity for a quick look. The back plate seems really secure with no damage, no slack on the mounts and well clear of anything that rotates past it. The car is parked on the road so couldn't do any more than a quick visual around the prop, but nothing jumps out at me as obvious. I couldn't feel any rotational slack or play on the wheel either, which I would expect to find if the cv was worn or damaged enough to create such a loud knock. Kinda stumped for ideas now. I think I may just drive it until the noise becomes as constant as it was while towing and have another look.

Hi guys I’ve just recently purchased a 2004 645ci from a friend but it’s been sitting for nearly a year… when he purchased the car 2 yrs ago he was told the temp gauge didn’t work and he never experienced any issues with the heating not working or over temp. He dropped it off to me and gave it one last blast as you would and then the first drive I had of it the I noticed the Guage wasn’t working and it was obviously hot. input the cabin heating on full and it was Luke warm for a start but then went cool, I thought the engine bay smelled a bit hot and the pipes at the top of the engine were hot however at no point did I hear the engine fan cut in …. I understand these engines run hot but I would have thought it would have kicked in.I haven’t driven it since as I’ve been working but I am hoping to have a look at it today … I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with .. 1. What thermocouple/sensor controls the guage in the cluster and does this sensor also control the fan. 2. Is the thermostat a common failure? I think it’s relatively easy to change but how do I prevent any air lock issues when replacing? new to the 6 series but also have an e53 X5 which I’ve done a fair bit of work on. thanks in advance for any answers and thanks for letting me join. regards rob

Good morning greydog and thanks for the reply. As soon as it stops raining I'll get the jack out and have a look at the back plate. I've had this issue on a previous car where the back plate had started to hit the disc as it rotated, but it was pretty constant and not effected by the weight or lean applied to the car. It was for this reason that I had kind of discounted it as a likely suspect. With the backplate being fixed to the hub, does it not move in the same plane as the disc and wheel regardless of extra weight or sideways load on the axle? If this is the case, wouldn't there have to be some play in the hub assembly that causes the hub and disc to move from their fixed plane and strike the backplate? Its this thinking that made me suspect bearing or cv. I doubt I'll get to look at it today as the rain here is torrential, and fortunately I don't need it on a daily basis (lucky enough to have a works van) but I'll certainly start where you suggest and let you what I find. If it gets to complicated, it'll have to go to a garage as I don't have the space or time for a major strip down. I would ask this however. The x5 is 17 years old with approaching 150k on the clock. If it turns out to be a garage job with expensive beamer parts, how far do I go? Thanks again Paul

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I would check the rear brake back plate I have seen this twice now both time s on E70's of the 2007/8 period To change it is a heap of work (hub dismantled) as the back plate is sandwiched between the brake shoe support plate and the Suspension hub I have cheated and once the disc is off remove the bolts holding the brake back plate and shoe support so it is all loose. Then I managed to change one by cutting it in half to get it off the new one I cut out the section where the Calliper sits then sliding it into place. The Brake shoe support plate and Back Plate are held in place by 4 m6 hex bolts. Still a faff but doable Dave PS. When your in there check all the area in case it is a heat shield loos or something on the driveshaft

Hi all, Been reading this forum for quite a while but being lucky enough to not have had any serious issues with my old x5, I've never had cause to post a question. Being new to the forum, not quite sure if I'm posting in the correct place, and I've already searched the topics for my issue but without success. So here goes, I hope someone can help. I have a 2007 x5 3.0 diesel, which we use to tow our touring van. On the way back from our last short holiday, it developed an intermittent speed related knocking which could be heard from the rear of the car. There was no specific trigger, sometimes it happened when pulling off, other times it happened on overrun. Once in a while it would just start while at a constant speed, sometimes I could stop it by lifting off the accelerator, sometimes by speeding up. It did seem to happen more at lower revs when pulling away or uphill, but not always. I spent most if the journey convinced it was coming from the caravan, but having now left the van back in storage the knock is still present although not so frequent so it seems to have been made worse with the extra weight of the van hanging off the back. It's definitely speed related and its frequency increases in time with wheel rotation. There's no gentle build up, it comes on and stays at the same loudness regardless of how fast it is although it may be a little louder on left hand bends when more weight sits on the drivers side rear wheel. There's no other grinding or rumbling, and the knock is a very clean metallic sound, like hitting a tin can with a stick. I'm not thinking suspension as it isn't brought on by road bumps or potholes, so my suspicion is leaning towards the wheel bearing/ rear axle area but, in truth, I have no clue. If anyone can throw some light on the most likely cause, at least it will give me a starting point. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Morning Ian In realoem double click the part number and it should show a list of all models that it was used in/on It will also show any alternate part numbers Fingers crossed Dave

Hi Dave, I've now spent some time checking out realoem.com and the lashing eyes on older active tourers and X1s seem to be identical. I think the variation in the front lashing eyes only seems to occur if a high (i.e. from the top of the rear seats to the roof) luggage net is used. So I'm going to order just 2 eyes and see if they will work. Your Part number does occur on various other models. I'll let you know if I'm successful, in due course. Once again thanks for the help.

Hi Bob, I when I had my 2018 X1 Sport I was able to fit my adult eletric bike in the back, but I had to remove the front wheel. I understand the newer X1s are a smidgen larger, but I don't think the boot dimensions have increased significantly. Regarding the 1.5 3 pot engine, that's what powers my 220i Active Tourer sDrive (although it's a mild hybrid). During the last month I've covered some 500miles, at lot of which was motorway and dual carriageway, and my MPG (according to the on-board computer) is 49.2. Whilst your X1 is larger I'm lugging around a battery but getting the advantage of slight regen. The DVLC website has info regarding the roadtax you'll pay. My X1 was purely petrol and I did have a spare wheel. Provided you are not looking at a hybrid, then a spare wheel should be possible under the floor. I hope this helps Ian

Hi Ian Shame it didn't help I think with BMW it has less to do with cost and far more to do with control. I am told that some of the newer models (such as yours) have to be connected to the Dealers diagnostics which in turn are linked to Munich even Dealers have to book a slot. It may be interesting when the USA market challenge "restricted access" it's almost undoubtable they will Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Dave Thanks so much for the helpful advice. I've searched that site - very useful. Unfortunately the position and type of the front mounting has changed since the F45 model. Why BMW structured their software search engines in this way surprises me. Yes if you use a specific VIN then you should get the part you require, but it doesn't cope with searches like mine. I suppose like all things it comes down to cost. A more universal search engine would require more complex programming and data management. Such is life. To be fair to the Main Dealers and BMW UK, they were all apologetic, and I think a little embarassed that the system wouldn't let them help me. Ian

Morning Jack Welcome to the Forum Not good news and although you aren't seeing visible signs, low oil pressure will over time start to reduce oil feed to probably the upper parts of the engine. As your garage found evidence of chain guide wear/brake up it needs investigation. I would start with simple stuff Check/change the Oil Pressure switch just in case it is that simple. The next bit involves dropping the sump to check the Oil Pick up pipe (I have seen one with a split "O" ring seal that gave similar symptoms to yours (flickering oi light at tick over) If the sump is off clean it out and I would change the oil pump tensioner and guide. Hope this is helpful Dave

Have shortlisted the X1 to replace my Mazda CX5. Seems to tick all the boxes but a few questions. Looking at the updated 23 model . Can you get a spare wheel for the X1 and can it be stowed away out of sight. What MPG can i realistically exxpect from the 1.5 s drive engine? Can you fit an adult bke in the back with seats down? What is the annual car tax on an X1 valued new at under £40k Thanks in anticipation. Lots of useful information on this forum. I