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- Today
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Hi Dave, Thank you and for the prompt response! And this would've been caused by a failed flash you recon ? as seems to unlucky to be a coincidence haha. Where can I find the bus system ? tried searching for a diagram for my f32 but couldn't seem to locate. FEM (Passenger Footwell) to DME continuity was on my list, struggling though to reach each end with my multimeter due to location. Do you recommend a specific tool and also worried to pierce each wire, unless you know of a better way ? Thanks, Rav
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Kevin1208 joined the community
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I've had my F36 for almost 9 years now and have always run it on Bridgestone Potenza S001 tyres as that what it came on (I bought it with 10,700 miles on it, now has 84,000) but the are noisy. I'm thinking of changing to Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymetric 6's which seem offer a quieter ride. Has anyone done this and, if so, has it been successful? Are they approved with the * mark for BMW? All comments gratefully received. Cheers Kevin
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BMW UK is excited to announce the launch of the BMW M Driving Experience in the UK. This exclusive programme has been designed to offer unparalleled opportunities for drivers to immerse themselves in the world of BMW M. Participants will benefit from expert tuition in advanced driving techniques, gaining valuable skills under the guidance of BMW M certified instructors, driving a range of BMW M cars and other models from the BMW Group product portfolio The BMW M Driving Experience is now available in the UK, joining ten other participating international markets. The various available experiences offer participants an exciting and varied programme designed to build advanced driving skills in a professionally supervised environment. Each experience combines expert tuition with the thrill of driving BMW M models. Colette Healy, Marketing Director, BMW Group UK, said: “I am delighted that the BMW M Driving Experience has now launched in the UK. Whether you are an enthusiast eager to test the limits of the latest BMW M models or a new customer, the M Driving Experience offers something for everyone”. Those taking part in the BMW M Driving Experiences require a full, valid in-date driving licence which has been held for a minimum of two years. Drivers must have no more than six penalty points and must not have been convicted within the last five years of any serious motoring offences. All drivers must be over the age of 25 on the day of the event. Pirelli are the official tyre partner for the BMW M Driving Experience UK. All experience vehicles are fitted exclusively with Pirelli Tyres. Their premium tyre characteristics means that dynamic performance is maximised in a wide working range, for both wet and dry conditions. Pirelli’s tyre experts are on hand at all major BMW M Driving Experience events to monitor tyre conditions and replace when necessary. The BMW M Driving Experience includes the following activities: BMW M Racetrack Training. Now open to all motoring enthusiasts, the BMW M Racetrack Training is an immersive, full-day programme which takes place at the legendary Silverstone International Circuit. It offers guests the opportunity to choose between a range of BMW M models, including the BMW M2, BMW M3 Saloon and Touring and BMW M4 Coupe, on one of the world’s most famous racetracks. Participants will benefit from comprehensive theory sessions designed to enhance their understanding of BMW M models, including performance and technology, with a focus on how these learnings can be applied to everyday responsible driving. The day also features a series of practical, on-track exercises covering the ideal racing line, advanced car handling including drifting, and full circuit laps with professional instructor guidance. This experience promises to equip guests with the skills and confidence to safely explore the limits of BMW M’s most iconic products. BMW M Drift Academy. Designed for both seasoned enthusiasts and those eager to try their hand at advanced driving techniques, the BMW M Drift Academy offers guests the chance to master the art of drifting in a safe and professionally supervised environment. Sessions take place across specially prepared circuit skid pans located at some of the UK’s most prestigious tracks. This half-day experience provides expert tuition, where attendees will drive a high-performance BMW M model - either a BMW M2, BMW M3 or BMW M4 derivative. The focus of the programme is on developing precise throttle control, mastering advanced steering techniques, and learning how to recover a car safely if control is lost. These skills not only enhance the thrill of driving but also contribute to greater confidence and safety whilst driving on the road. BMW Driving Dynamics. The BMW Driving Dynamics session is a comprehensive full-day experience designed to teach participants fundamental vehicle control skills alongside advanced driving techniques. This expertly structured event equips guests with practical knowledge applicable to real-world driving situations, ensuring greater confidence and safety on the road. Attendees will have the opportunity to drive either BMW 2 Series or BMW 3 Series derivates throughout the day, demonstrating the exceptional versatility and everyday usability that define BMW’s vehicles. The breadth of experiences on offer showcase the sophisticated safety systems integrated into BMW M vehicles, ensuring participants not only enjoy the thrill of driving but also understand the cutting-edge technology that helps to keep them safe on the road. Whether you are an enthusiast eager to test the limits of the latest BMW M models, the M Driving Experience offers something for everyone. For more information, or to make a booking, please visit: bmwmdrivingexperience.bmw.co.uk For any specific questions or queries before booking, please contact: [email protected] -
Thanks Stu I will have a look at the head unit later today
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ah,never knew. Cheers.
- Yesterday
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Hi everyone, I'm new here and want to sell my beloved E39. I've owned it roughly 6 years. Has a full service history. Check out the advert here. I thought I'd post it here. Check out the advert let me know if you feel like buying it. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202607053910510?calc-deposit=800&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=PCP
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Hello, most aftermarket head units have reversing camera inputs, sadly not Bluetooth! The input is usually a yellow phone jack plug and the signal is wired from the reverse light to usually a pink wire. , wireless ones are garbage! Get a AHD camera if you can
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The previous Owner put one on - I don't know the make but it works perfectly the BMW system and the other apps Is there a possibility of an aftermarket reversing camera (ideally bluetooth) or am I dreaming...?
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Our LHD 2012 X3 2.0 diesel has been fantastic and for our road trips down to Greece is the absolutely perfect car. Now that it has a little over 100k miles on the clock I was toying with the idea of a newer LHD X3 but the second hand prices are just nuts - I just can't face leaving a twenty five grand car in a Greek side street just waiting for the latest knock or scratch from the careless parkers. The car has been serviced at main dealer during the five years we have had it - apart from tyres and servicing (OK the ABS sensor) mechanically the car is fine, there is a bit of a whining noise (water pump i believe) but it has always had that and I just don't know how to be rid of it. My thoughts are to spend a few quid on the car to ensure we get another 2-3 trouble free years service - are there any tips as to what would make sense to replace? Given the abs sensor was a problem I was thinking to replace those - I had the chance to have a good look underneath when the car had the sensor replaced. There is a bit of surface rust on some of the suspension components (but nothing drastic) and I saw a minor weep of oil at the rear diff. Appreciate any ideas!
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Afternoon all The 26euro part was fitted - it has got us back the 1189 miles from Patras to Essex, we arrived yesterday afternoon The old girl has now just under 101250 miles on the clock - never missed a beat and 42.2 mpg at between 70-80 mph with this in mind I will start a new thread
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Morning Ricky Welcome to the Forum Tasty motor hope your enjoying it First check would be Battery Voltage check it at the charging point under the bonnet key out engine off you should see 12.5v engine running 14.5v + If you have less than 12.5v at rest then the battery either needs charging or if 11v or lower replacing. When the car is started current draw is high and the cars many control units shut down functions to protect them or save power. If the battery is good then you could try taking out the switch panel and cleaning it and it's plug with a good electrical contact spray, if that doesn't do it a diagnostic scan should point you in the right direction Hope this helps Dave
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Morning Astonred Primary Filter suppliers to BMW Europe are Mann and Hengst, back up suppliers are Mahle and Bosch
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Hi, I would always give any "new" car I buy either private or trade an oil and filter change, along with fuel and air filters as you can never tell. I thought OEM was Mahle?
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I have just had mine serviced, as when I bought it the box was buttery smooth. I could, lately just feel a bit of a change on the change down. As it was 6 years old and 50k miles decided to get it done and now back to buttery smooth. The old oil definately needed changing. There is also a filter in the gearbox, so surely that needs changing at some point. BMW say its lifetime, but will offer a service on it for about £1500. ZF say 6 yrs/60k miles. So I went to my local indie and had it done for £415. I guess it depends how the car is driven light or lead footed and motorway or town, and in some small measure luck of the draw.
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Do you have any Battery Management messages appear when you start the car? My start/stop has never really kicked in as Sytner BMW should have really put a new battery on it before they sold it me. Mine only works if I have done a long drive (100+) and it's not too cold, and all the other parameters are met. It will only work on mine (G21 320d) in Comfort and Eco mode, Sport disengages it. Even a slight drop on the battery seems to stop it kicking in. When I first got it I drove in Eco mode all the time, and as my battery is "tired" it didn't really charge up enough. I believe it has an “intelligent” alternator so will only pull on it when really required. Eco prioritises exactly that - fuel economy - so will have alternator disengaged as much as possible. I know on my Golf when the start/stop has turned the engine off, the child can start it up by turning the A/C button on. Try charging the battery up over the weekend and see if that makes a difference. I'll be honest I find start/stop a pain in the ##### and usually turn it off. But it is annoying when a feature doesn't work properly.
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Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum Seems you have the right tools with ISTA I would still want to confirm the FEM DME signal The fact you have 51 permanent faults indicates to my old head you have some Bus issues which are preventing communication BMW are fond of using a twisted compressed joint system sealed in a clear soft plastic sleeve. Over time they can sweat and corrode internally if you expose a join and it looks black that's corrosion (attached is a picture of the Bus system in my X5) the pic with my hand in shows the Bus system Green and Orange wires I spent a morning remaking and soldering the joints and sealing them in shrink wrap. Once all the loom communication is back you may have more success with clearing stubborn faults. Check the continuity FEM to DME all pins Good Luck hope this helps Dave
- Last week
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ravman2 joined the community
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Hi everyone, I’m chasing a stubborn "No Communication with DME" issue on my UK-spec 2014 BMW 4 Series Coupe (420i, N20 engine, manual transmission, RHD). This all started because I re-flashed (BM3) before my MOT after sitting over the winter and suffering a severe battery drain, the car went into a hard no-crank, no-start state (everything else seems to work fine) When hooked up to ISTA+ (using an ENET cable to USB-C adapter, hence why top-right KL15/KL30 fields show standard ENET dashes), the DME remains solid RED on the Control Unit Tree. The car has a total of 51 permanent faults after clearing historical noise. Almost every responding module (FEM, DSC, EPS, ICM, REM, KOMBI) is healthy but throwing network errors stating: "No message... transmitter DME/DDE". Additionally, there is a hard active fault for 8040B1 (Wake-up line to the intelligent battery sensor IBS: Short circuit to B+ or line disconnection). To isolate this issue, I have performed extensive diagnostic steps with the following definitive outcomes: A brand-new 96Ah Exide AGM battery has been installed and is kept charged using a CTEK charger. DME Hardware is GOOD: The DME was removed from the car and sent to a bench specialist (Martyn at ECUWorx). It powers up and communicates perfectly on the bench rig, ruling out internal board failure or water damage. However due to not having the right harness he was unable to validate the Key to FEM to DME communication. Integrated Supply Module (IVM) is NEW: Replaced the engine bay IVM module completely. Zero change; DME remains entirely non-responsive on the car's loom. IBS Sensor Isolation: Unplugged the 2-pin black data connector at the negative battery terminal to check if a shorted IBS chip was dragging down the wake-up line. The DME stayed red. Engine Ground Circuit is GOOD: Ran a heavy-duty jumper lead directly from the chassis factory grounding stud on the strut tower to a clean, bare aluminum structural section on the engine cylinder head. Rerun of the ISTA vehicle test showed no change (DME stayed red), completely ruling out a snapped or corroded lower engine ground strap. Main Under-Car Power Cable is GOOD: Tested the main B+ bolted power supply terminal in the engine bay compartment using a power circuit probe. It reads a clean, live 12V, proving raw battery juice is successfully travelling from the boot to the front of the car. All Module Fuses (FEM, REM, EBox Fuse Panel, Trunk Power Distribution Box) are GOOD: Probed every individual blade and maxi-fuse, all fully intact and passing voltage correctly on both sides. Current Status & Next Steps: Battery power is available, the block is perfectly grounded, the fuses are good, and the DME hardware functions perfectly on a test bench. Yet, when plugged into the car, the engine bay remains a complete communication dead zone. My next steps are to cleanly isolate the DSC (ABS) module plug to ensure a fried module isn't choking the PT-CAN line, and to check if the Terminal 15WUP (Wake-up) 12V signal from the FEM is actually reaching the engine loom. however struggling to disconnect the ABS Harness. Has anyone encountered a similar issue on their f-series following a failed flash or where the FEM fails to send the wake-up voltage to the DME while leaving the rest of the car awake? Any guidance on specific wiring pins or hidden fusible links to check next would be incredibly appreciated! ISTA screenshots attached for additional context, more can be sent too.
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rickyh joined the community
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Hi, I have recently purchased a 2013 X5M50d. The centre console buttons, specifically Auto hold, camera button and downhill descent don't always work when pressed but DSC is ok. They seem to work whenever they decide to and also the Auto hold decides to turn itself off whenever it wants, normally the next time i get in the car. There are no signs of anything spilled or damage as far as I can see. Has anyone come across this before and how was the problem resolved? Thanks
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530iAuto joined the community
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Sorry, I have had time to sit down. The camshaft sensor can fail and cause sporadic issues. There is a pulley on the front of the engine which can split and cause the forward/ backward motion and misread the sensor. Check this by pulling the pulleys toward the radiator / front of car. They should not move!
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Camshaft sensor or pulley! … sorry, I’m a rush!
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Hi Roger I am in Horsham and have a very old laptop in the garage with a copy of BMW 1.4.0 on it if you get down this way you are very welcome to borrow it as I now use a different laptop with ISTA. The Diagnostics are very good so if your stuck just shout Dave
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Dear Dave many thanks for your comments, it’s very much appreciated. Coils and plugs have all been checked and also swapped around. The vacuum lines too, we found a split in one of the air input tubes so replaced that. I understand that all accessible electrical connects have been checked and cleaned too, a BMW specialist did this. I really appreciate you asking generally if there is someone relatively local to SW London who might want to have a look - that could prove helpful because I’m at the point where I’m just guessing and don’t have access to diagnostic equipment. Thank you once again, and have a good weekend. Best wishes Roger
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Nairn joined the community
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DatGeezH joined the community
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Morning Roger Welcome to the Forum As the issue is erratic I would suspect either coil packs or plugs if there are no Vacuum leaks, as the car is used little I would start with a can of good Electrical Contact cleaner and make sure all sensor plugs are good and clean, then all coil pack connections. Check all the Vacuum lines for signs of cracking or splits those are the simple practical things but Diagnostics are the way to go. I wonder if there is a member on here who is close to you? Dave
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Hello everyone - I’m new to this forum. I have a year 2000 E46 323ci that has an engine that is running really erratically and unpredictably. The car is hardly used, it passed its MOT in February this year but the running poor issue has been evident for over a year. The issue: sometimes the engine will start fine - no warning lights - smooth and lovely as it should be - drive it for 30 mins or so in local city traffic and without warning the engine starts to run really lumpy - all the warning lights come on and the car will hardly pull more than 10mph - pull off the road - turn the ignition off - wait - start again with the same problem - do this a few more times - then the lights go off and the engine runs fine again - for 30 mins or so. This can also happen in reverse - the car will be running smoothly - park at home - start the following day and it’s straight back to lumpy running with all the warning lights. I have had the throttle body replaced, twice, the ECU cloned and replaced, a new air input ducting - all carried out by a BMW specialist but the problem continues. the specialist is unfortunately now not answering calls. I’m not a mechanic and I’m fumbling around in the dark here - when it’s running well it’s a lovely car - when it’s bad it’s really undrivable. my next thoughts are the vanos unit and/or solenoid valves - or as the car is worth so little - scrap it! can anyone on this forum suggest anything - I don’t have access to code reading software - it would be great to speak to an enthusiast who might have some ideas - it can’t be a massive problem to solve as it can run really well - but just occasionally! any help or advice would be greatly appreciated - or if there is someone in SW London who might want to have a look that would be fab - thanks in advance. Roger M
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RogerM joined the community
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Morning Peter First lesson don't go to BMW 😅 Have you used www.realoem.com to get the correct part number then use the Internet to search for the best price, check out the Specialist BMW dismantlers like Quarry Motors. Or there are now companies who will clean the original DPF if it is cleaned the software will be needed to be reset so the car knows it has a clean DPF Dave
