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I'm hoping someone can give me a few pointers. I have a 2012 E84 25D and recently I've been getting the following intermittent codes: 4862 Air System, Air to EGR Mass Flow, Plausibility 4873 Exhaust-Gas Recirculation Cooling, Plausibility 4530 Charing Pressure Control, Control Deviation The car drove fine, no loss of power. I removed the EGR and Cooler to check them and there was very little carbon and both clear. Both were replaced around 10k miles ago under the BMW recall. The car has now gone into limp mode and is making a weird noise when reved. It's quite at idle but makes a lowish pitched drone or whining noise when the engine is reved. It's not a high pitched whine that I would associate with the bearings in the turbo. I had a fondle of the turbo spindle when I had the intake pipe removed. It spins freely and I cant feel any play in the bearings. The car has only done 55,000 miles and has a full service history with oil changes every 4,000 miles so I'm hoping the turbo hasn't failed already. I thought I'd try and check out the control system first. I looked at the parts diagram for the turbo vacuum control and started trying to check things. Connected a vacuum gauge on the supply side and the vacuum appears steady so I don't think there is a leak on the supply side or vacuum tank. I removed the vacuum line from the part labelled Vacuum box (15) on the parts diagram and the droning/whining noise stops. I connected a syringe to the Vacuum box and as i draw a vacuum the noise returns. Turned the engine off and used the syringe to draw a vacuum while feeling the actuator arm under the vacuum box and the arms moves/returns freely when a vacuum is applied/released. I can't work out what this vacuum box operates. The actuator arm passes down through the exhaust manifold and is connected to the turbo. Can anyone tell me what this does or suggest any next steps to try and diagnose the problem? Thanks Jim

Hey im trying to fit a boost gauge to my bmw 1 series 116d , 200bhp And wondering if anyone has done before and could show us where and what hose to cut hose and fit extension and run a hose through fire wall to the gauge.

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁 Dave

Hi Tino Just re-checked and you are correct 3 - Ethernet RX+ Confirmed 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal Confirmed 11 - Ethernet RX- Confirmed 12 - Ethernet TX+ Confirmed 13 - Ethernet TX- Confirmed I think your assumption on the ZF trans could well be right also if the resistor is toast it could well screw up the Diagnostics Keep digging Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum Best case check the Rocker cover Vent pipe easy to replace Worst case Cylinder Head Cover gasket needs replacing Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the Search box it will bring up your Model Then in Engine look the Cylinder head cover. Use the part numbers to make sure you get the correct parts The job is a DIY proposition but there is a huge amount of trim and engine bay bracing to take off before you get near the nitty gritty 😅 Top tip take pictures so you make sure it all goes back where it's meant to. Tools needed a good socket set (3/8 and 1/4 drive) trim clip removal set and buckets of patience 😁 I believe there are a couple of good videos on You tube that should help Good Luck Dave

Hello there 👋 I have a 2008 E90 320i From Japan and am having some issues with the OBD II Port. I’ve noticed when I try to scan, the scanner sometimes establishes a connection and then while scanning for codes it just goes blank like it lost power. I’ve tried multiple scanners (BlueDriver, OBD Link CX for BimmerCode & Carly) and none can make it to the end of the canning process. So I got to digging and pulled the OBD II port to check pins and wires. Also found a pinout online for E90’s to make sure it was pinned correctly. I believe the pinout I found was: Pin Signal Description 1 +12V Ignition (In run Or Start) 4 CGND Chassis Ground 5 SGND Signal Ground 6 CAN HI CAN High, J-2284 7 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE Engine (ISO-9141 and ISO-14230), Automatic Transmission Diagnostic (In Some Models) 8 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE IKE/KOMBI, ABS, ABS/ASR, ABS/ABD, ESP, DSC, Airbag And Other Electronic Equipment 9 TD/RPM Engine Rotation Speed 14 CAN LO CAN Low, J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE L-Line Of ISO 9141-2 And ISO 14230-4 16 +12v Battery Power So I pulled my OBD II Port and I found that pins 1, 8 and 15 are not present. I also found this rectangular box with some type of capacitor in it attached to the harness with the two can bus wires going through it. I also have two parts cars from Japan with slight variations in spec, totalling 3 E90’s that I have: Year Production Date Engine Code Transmission Spec Main - 2008 10/2007 N46B20B GM Cloth Electric Seats Non Heated Parts - 2008 08/2007 N46B20 ZF Leather Electric Seats Heated Parts - 2010 12/2009 N46B20B GM Cloth Manual Seats Non Heated So I pulled the OBD II ports on those as well to check if they were the same, and oddly enough the other 2008 model was setup differently but the 2010 model was setup the same as my white 2008 model. Maybe the transmission used plays a roll on the OBD II pinout seeing that my white 2008 model and the 2010 model both use the GM trans? The 2008 parts car doesn’t have the box with the capacitor in it. Below I’ll show you the pinout for each vehicle: White 2008 w/GM Transmission: Silver 2008 w/ZF Transmission: Dark Blue 2010 w/GM Transmission: Any idea what I need to do to get the port to work? I’d imagine I need to start with adding a +12 Volt signal from the ignition switch.

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one Good Luck Dave

Frank Changing to springs is a simple mechanical swap take out the air spring bolt in the conventional spring you will need spring compressors to get the steel springs safely in place. However coding out the sensors and compressor control software to stop all the messages on your dash still needs doing unless your happy to drive around in a car with faults showing. A spring kit should cost around £200. Then all you need to do is as said find someone to code out the other stuff if you have someone to do that they could do a full ride height scan and tell you exactly what is wrong I have a feeling that would be simpler and cheaper??? If the Module you ordered was wrong what did you order ? If you contact Bimmerparts they will probably change it for you or give a refund. Did you check www.realoem.com to get the correct Part number before buying ? Have you had a scan Done? Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First the engine difference 430d should give 250+hp and 400+ft/ibs torque 0-60 around 5.5secs the 435d should be around 300+hp 450+ft/lbs of torque 0-60 under 5 secs. I would think both cars will give high 30's around town and high 40's even 50's on a run (right foot influenced) Both engines are based on the BMW's 3ltr straight six Diesel turbo configuration makes the difference both cars will have a ZF 8 speed box, the 430d RWD the 435d AWD That's the oily bits the rest is is personal choice don't assume that they will all be the same inside make sure that the cars have everything that you want and that it all works as it should. When you find a car with the colour interior and engine specs you like then just like any used purchase History History History Hope we rescue you from the Dark Side 🤣 Dave

Thanks Dave It's going back in tomorrow. They say it may be a poor alignment issue? But will check. Sorry they had said to me it was a control.arm? It can move very easily and more so when car on plate and off ground. With wheel turned can easily see movement around the bushes. Still they said that's normal. Something is far wrong as the car handles really poorly at higher speeds and cornering. I'll update after it's been checked again 👍

Hi Jose Welcome to the Forum First you really need a diagnostic scan to help here us and you there are several BMW capable systems these day at reasonable cost BMW ISTA/INPA available online Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft the list is getting longer my own X5 E70 had several K-can bus issues which after a lot of head scratching lead me to a BMW cable jointing system common on our cars. The joints are not soldered they are twisted and compressed then covered in a clear plastic sleeve. As you have suffered water ingress I would start in the Boot/Trunk under the floor starting at the rear right below the rear fuse board you will find the main Loom it runs along the rear of the car towards the battery hidden in it are several of these joints (pictures attached) The dark stain inside the clear plastic is corrosion with my car several of these joints just fell apart. I ended up remaking and soldering all the joints in the pictures the sealing them with shrink wrap. Once done I could clear all manner of faults that just wouldn't clear before. However as you are also having other issues they may possibly be either junction box and/or footwell module related. Also check the alternator output it may be the voltage regulator is fritzed Hope this helps Dave

Finally remembered to check on this fault! … nearly mot time! Haha sorted the intermittent wiper issue… that was a rain sensor not sensing rain! IMG_3444.mov

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware as long as the replacement is the same part number you should find it plug and play. Even if it requires registration (logging your Chassis number into the replacement unit) ISTA is the tool. Way back 2004/2005 a friends 5 series Footwell Control module failed, the Dealer wanted so much money he was considering scrapping the car!! Dealer told horror stories about cars being Bricked if the unit was swapped and not programmed and you couldn't reprogram used units !! Well it was wrong actually swapping the units over took longer than reprogramming the replacement unit and he still has the car 😁 Since then I have done several for friends and family If you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Once you have the correct part number Google for the best source/price. Then it is the process of removing the faulty unit and changing it. Before all this are you sure it is the IHKA unit not just a sensor or something else. Your friend with ISTA can help confirm if he hasn't already Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum Try disconnecting the battery for 30mins see if that clears things if not it may be an issue with the Dab antenna a Diagnostic scan may well show up any issues there Dave

Glad your almost up and running The x5's don't like not being used they sulk 🤣 Remember she's 16 so a temperamental teenager 🤣 Dave

That's sad news Stu The Mini and 2nd Generation on X3 require their own software for Diagnostics so BMW 1.4.0 wont touch them I am afraid 1.4.0 is brilliant on I-bus cars but anything BMW after 2005/6 and all Mini variants need INPA or ISTA or one of the more up to date systems from Autel iCarsoft etc Dave

Morning JC Welcome to the Forum First try the Dealer trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 mins that should clear any faults, if you still get the fault then you need a BMW capable diagnostic system to clear down any fault memory. There are quite a few these days Autel, iCarsoft, and several others Good Luck Dave

Hi, My 2 series experiences a knocking noise from the front of the car when the temperature outside is above 18 degrees. This does not happen on cooler days. I have taken it to the garage and they cannot find the fault. Has anyone else experienced this?