Greydog

Good to have you back Dimitris I would think there will be an internal fault recorded but if the Thermostat is working it will simply open earlier so I would think gauge wise you will see nothing unusual Dave

Hi Richard I have used both staggered and square set ups. You can check wheel sizes using www.realoem.com if you are making a wheel/tyre purchase make sure that the wheels have the correct offset so they clear the brake calipers also make sure they are suitable for your car From the weather forecast it could be the first time in a long time it's been cold enough to need Winters unless like I used to you need to travel in Europe where Winters are mandatory Dave

Not sure what you have done or are asking here Donald First the Boot/Trunk can be opened manually using the Master Key. The Battery is in the Trunk/Boot so Neg terminal off first. If you realeased the Red Lead under the Hood/Bonnet you only isolated part of the cars electrical system? (This is also the Charging Point so if charging the battery this is where to connect) Sensors, before changing them make sure they actually need changing test them (Google for parameters) also check whether they need coding to the car to ensure they are going to work correctly. Check all fuses are intact if all OK then a Diagnostic scan should show where the Issues are Dave

Morning Donald I think you need to read very carefully just what your agreement/policy with Beacon says. Personally I don't need or want an algorithm in an Insurance suppliers computer deciding how and where I can drive. It quite probably decided you were to close to an allocated limit and shut down to prevent you exceeding it ??? Dave

Morning Stu The old girl isn't being very helpful at the moment is she 😄 Starter is a an absolute Faff to get at requiring some really long extensions did a couple back in the mid 2000's much easier if you can get access to a lift. Cold weather coming maybe let the wallet take the strain 😅 Dave

Morning Donald I have never heard the "State Farm Beacon Drive Safe and Save" to me it sounds like an Insurance backed system to monitor use and charge accordingly. In which case it could very well be the cause of issues and is nothing to do with BMW as far as I know. Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum My Insurers insisted on a Tracker being fitted when I brought the E53 4.6is 2003 I used their recommended supplier and it didn't cause any Warranty issues with BMW. Dave

You need to check www. realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check Wheel/Tyre section note the offset required to clear the calipers. Then check the 4 series manually and compare the results Dave

Morning Andrew Wear sensors are normally reliable so I would check the connections are clean and properly made they normally reset themselves but you could try the old Battery Disconnect to reset the light. If you still have an issue then it is diagnostics time Dave

Morning Daniel !46k is no mileage and assuming the the service was a full one (Drain the flid, Drop the pan change the filter, check the solonoids and the External plug) and used the correct Fluid. It depends on if you are a DIY capable guy or whether your wallet is going to take a hit DIY, I would begin by checking the Fuid level and making sure there are no leaks. When checking the levels you could add a tube oof DR Tranny a "Snake Oil Additive" but I have seen it help a number of internal issues. Then reset the faults if they return you need more investigation. The issue could be a sticking/failing solenoid or serious wear internally. If you are not keen on DIY then you will need a good ZF specialist. It involves dropping the Fluid and gearbox sump removing the filter to expose the Mechatronix unit check the magnets in the sump carefully for and metal shavings and fragments everything has to be very clean. Dave

Morning Daniel Welcome to the Forum You need to supply a little more information "how many miles ? is there any evidence the gearbox has been serviced ?" Your Gearbox is in limp mode 3rd or 4th gear this could be because the box is worn and needs a rebuild, it could be a service and oil change will fix it or it could be low transmission fluid due to a leak. Of course the box in a 330i will have had quite a hard life 😁 Dave

Morning David Make sure the tyres are correct for the car ? Are they all the same make and rolling radius if one is out your Transfer Case fix might need repeating Dave

Hi David Your car should have the ZF 8 speed box as Stu says is there any evidence that the box has serviced ZF recommend every 60k miles and they often get foregotten. Other things to check First Tyres are they all the correct size and are wear patterns the same. Odd tyres across axels or front to rear can wreak havoc mainly with the Transfer case though. Second find a good open area and on full lock reverse slowly if it is a Transfer case issue you will feel/hear a jerking through the steering. If all is smooth yout Transfer case should be OK My local BMW Specialist charges £650 for a GB service plus around £80 if a software update is needed. I save around £260 by doing it myself (ZF Fluid and Filters) Dave

Hi Sherry Is it fixed ? Dave

Did you ever get a reply ?

Morning Andrew Is it fixed 😄 Dave

Morning Stu The system is fairly simple sensors on each bumper a loom to conect them and the control unit tucked down by the battery. If the trailer is plugged in the rear sensors should be disabled if that is all working OK I would remove the control unit and check the plugs and pins where it is often gets moisture problems. I have changed a few over the years for friends and family last one was from Global parts and was £25 if I recall Dave

Hi Stu Oerr that sounds bonkers are you sure you dont have one that is a little masked doesnt take much, the rear sensor on mine wassitting back about 1mm if that Dave

Hi Hary My X5's Both run 20" wheels both are on Non Runflat tyres as that way I get a wider choice Simple advice tyres afre the only thing between you and a ditch so always buy the best you can afford Dave

Morning Aleem Welcome to the Forum I have seen this code before if my old brain is working right it is the glass heating element it's connections or wiring (2 white wires if I recall). So I am afraid you need to start by removing the mirror and checking all connections I have seen one that needed a new mirror and one that had a broken wire at the door to body point Good Luck Dave

Karl If you have a seized level sensor arm either change it or lubricate it as it really could be your issue. Fix faults first other wise trying to reset Fault Codes is a waste of time as they will just return. As I understand it each Headlamp has 3 modules (1) a main Headlamp module (2) a Headlamp Control Module (3) a Cornering Module make sure the plugs are clean unplug them a spray with Contact Cleaner and reconnect making sure they are seated correctly Then try disconnecting the battery to clear faults Dave

Hi Karl As the lights are working and from your description correctly it could be a plug or pin that's a little gungy or possibly a software glitch There is a register of BMW Specialists check it for ones near you I would check them out and get a proper diagnostic scan done as warnings are often a symptom not the cause. The Battery disconnect is actually something that Dealers do to clear faults so may work. Dave

Hi Vic If you cant find the Part number on the Telematic unit in your car check www.realoem.com if you haven't used it before put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model or up to 2019 it will then search the sections for what you need. Your looking for the Part Number (your car or earlier when you have the part number double click it annd you should get a list of alternates and other models it was used on. Some of the BMW specialist Dismantlers like Quarry Motors would be a good starting point Good Luck Dave

As BMW themselves produced a 116i 2.0ltr version parts shouldn't be to hard to track down use realoem get a list and see if finacially it's viable There is always the old syaing by Carol Shelby when a guy asked him how fast a Shelby Cobra was, His answer, "speed costs money son how fast can you afford to go" Remember back in the 70's Brabham Racing were using BMW 1.5 ltr engines in their F1 cars two turbos (1 big and 1 very big) 900/1000hp in race trim 1200hp for qualifying. The engines were standard blocks selected customers ran them on the road to get heat cycles into the blocks. Customer engines were swapped and the blocks went to Brabham.

Morning Harry Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your asking here ? Does your car have front and rear cameras fitted ? If so are the OEM ? If they are then the rear camera should function as a reverse camera (as far as I am aware). In settings you should be able to select views. If you have front and rear cameras and they are not OEM that would explain things. Reverse Cameras where an option I take it you have parking sensors. If your car was ordered with just PDC then you should have a Graphic and tone warning. To upgrade to cameras will need an ECU to handle the video signal Dave