andy-mcq

airbox sensor would be worth getting anyway. do these have idle control valves?

congrats again gav, you went thru with it then :P also hope you had a great birthday, big week for you :)

hope these help

there may be more screws, some will most likly be hidden behind bits of plastic trim once there all out you usually need a good pull to get it off, sometimes the panel may need pulling up slightly to. just take your time

make sure you do gav, all the best have a fun week

HAHA, best of luck mate have a great day and night :)

never mind that! whats the insurance like on a bmw at 19!!!! :o

he is talking about the possiblity of a carrera now, think itl be another 2-3 years though

not my car! but then i did get mine at the auctions :lol:

ouch! thats steep!

id love a original 911 my dad had a boxster S but sold it for his X5 , so il let you decide if thats a good change ;) i only went in it once, was a fast car but never been a fan of the boxster, evan the S one. 911 are nothing for me B)

good stuff, bar the £400, but at least all is good now B)

cant believe no one has added anything heres one more for yers plenty more were that came from to :)

that focus is awesome, theres one similar around were i live, not you? (liverpool)

a friend of mine uses them and had no probs, i havnt yet. ive used GSF though, only thing to do would ring them all up and see what prices are like

sorry i couldnt get the pics to work

hope this works, just found this Tools needed Jack and jackstands 10mm deep socket 16mm socket 17mm deep socket 32 or 36mm socket 46mm socket 3/8 and 1/2 ratchet - long handles help 1/2 impact wrench (not necessary tho.. otherwise 1/2 long breaker bar) 6mm hex deadblow hammer hand impact driver (not necessary but helps with rusted brake retainer bolt) prybar or large screwdriver long centering punch or the like 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches or ones to cover 10 lb ft to well over 200 lb ft 1 Jack car up and place on jackstands 2 using impact wrench and 17mm socket remove front wheel 3 using 3/8 long ratchet and 16mm short socket remove caliper retaining bolts 4 remove brake caliper and suspend with wire from strut being careful to not bend the brake hose 5 grab hand impact driver with hex and remove brake disc retaining bolt 6 use prybar/punch or screwdriver to gently pry off hub cover 7 take center punch or screwdriver and use small hammer to tap out the pressed in portion of the hub nut 8 when done pushing out the pressed in portion it should look like this 9 use 1/2 impact and 46mm socket to remove hub nut - alternatively you could use 18 inch or larger 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar and still easily get this nut off 10 once you get the large hub nut off it looks like this 11 grab a slide hammer or wheel hub press tool and start building your hub removal tool 12 I like to use a slide hammer so it looks like this... or if you want to use a hub press removal tool with a wrench to press it out it might look something like this 13 one nice whack with the slide hammer and you should get off the hub and bearing which might just leave the inner race and you will also see this view of the spindle 14 use a dremel or long and thin two jaw puller to get off the inner race I used a two jaw puller so it looked like this 15 all thats left is the spindle, rear seal cover and brake disc cover so use a punch or something thin to press/gently tap out the inner seal cover to clean it and also the surrounds of the spindle assembly (not required but we all want to do this right) 16 use a 10mm deep socket to remove the 3 bolts holding the rear brake cover in order to clean it and remove any accumulated junk that might be held in the assembly near the abs sensor and rear seal cover 17 clean up the spindle and get ready to get on to the install 18 grab your new front wheel bearing and using a 32 or 36mm socket gently press/tap on the new wheel bearing - I used a 36mm socket and gently tapped it on with a deadblow. You might get lucky and be able to slide on the new bearing by hand. Be careful not to separate the front and rear inner races while installing as you might introduce grit into the new bearing and that might cause an early demise. 19 after you have it tapped on far enough you should be looking at something like this 20 now you can install and torque the hub nut to specs - check Bentley for your model. Mine was 214 lb ft. 21 now using a punch or like dent in the outer portion of the hub nut as a safety precaution 22 I like to use anti seize on the hub and surround so that brake discs are easy to remove so I lightly coat the hub 23 reinstall the brake disc and torque the retaining bolt to 12 lb ft or per Bentley for your model and then reinstall caliper and torque the caliper to the spindle per Bentley (81 lb ft for my 01 325) 24 clean the hub cover and apply light coat of anti seize on the lip and then gently tap it on with a deadblow hope this helps some how, it seems you need a bmw tool for it but looks like you can make one fairly easy

doesnt seem to say anything about changing them, just shows how to tell if there gone! which is wierd, il keep looking. its most likly me, im not awake yet :huh:

welcome to the forum to B)

always worth a go yourself , if you can do oil service etc cant see it being a problem. do you have a haynes manual? if not get one, first thing i buy for any car now :D il have a look in mine later and see what it says

now thats a batmobile B)

yep il evan third that! i think the stig should be laid to rest now. just have some one like her racing the cars around the track B) hmmmm, seeing as im not allowed on the roads, wonder if theyl let me do it, loads of aggresion has built up over the last 7-8 months :P

welcome to the forum, excellent choices in cars there :D would love a mk1 myself for dry use only, defo a classic car

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lol^^, my megane had it every 6-12 months depending on mileage