paneuro

Hi, I was reading one post on here where Greydog mentioned motor stratification rear right and he was describing where it was located, I have been looking for this but can't seem to find it, could he possibly elaborate on this for me please Thanks Paneuro.

Hi guys, dragged the inlet manifold of and emptied a can of oven cleaner into it , then pressure washed it out and had a look, Then I went for the big guns, a kilo of caustic soda flakes followed by a kettle of boiling water and left it overnight, then another pressure wash. It would be interesting to know how much weight I removed but I did not weigh it before i cleaned it.  Replaced the vacuum lines other than the ones that go to the engine mounts. Fitted the new turbo boost control solenoid and put it all back together. Erased the fault codes with Carly and all is fine no EML.  the only fault I am left with is the air con one and I have a used AUC sensor coming from ebay. Fingers crossed that will cure the last fault code.  Thanks to all who offered advice. Paneuro.

Hi, I think I have solved the problem. I removed the vacuum pipe from the egr valve but there was no suction there whatsoever so I traced it back to the egr pressure converter solenoid. I have ordered a new one which I think will cure the problem. I will also clean the manifold and the egr valve while its in bits. I will have a good look at the rubber pipes as well. hopefully that will cure my problem. thanks for everybody's advice and I will post the result when its back together. Paneuro.

On 10/15/2021 at 5:35 PM, Greydog said:

Afternoon Andrew

Always faster the second or third time 🤣 Best engine in my opinion.

The vac lines aren't that expensive I would be changing them (save taking the manifold off again, even if it doesn't take long 🤣) My Brother inlaw is on his 5th 5 touring all have gone to around 200k and we have changed EGR's on 3 along with all Vac lines. I could feel Vacuum on my tongue after changing lines.

Other signs of Vac pump problems are, 

1. Poor fuel efficiency. When a vacuum leak exists, it's most commonly caused by vacuum hoses that are broken, have faulty connections or the vacuum pump is not in operation. 
2. Brake pedal hard to press. 
3. Leaking oil under the side of the engine. 
4. Air conditioning not working.

The servo has a Vacuum pipe attached where it inserts into Servo there is a plastic non return valve if this not working correctly when you press the brake pedal and hold it you will feel it settle/sink. The servo it's self can rust at the bottom you will feel bubbling paint and rust with your fingers if it feels rough or soft the only way is to take it off I am afraid

Dave

Thanks for that advice, I'll have to drag the manifold back of to get at the vacuum pipes. The swirl flap actuator and rod are still there although the flaps have been removed so I will remove them as well when I've got the manifold off. I will let you know how it goes. Paneuro.  P.S. can you say how to check the vacuum pump and actuator? and it is a 530d manual.

hi, i have a code coming up on carly  004501  which as far as I can learn is Exhaust gas recirculation control deviation?  does anybody know what to do or check to fix this as its bringing up an EML and I need an MOT.  I have cleaned the EGR valve , the MAP sensor, and fitted a new modified crank case breather so I don't quite know what to look for next. thanks Paneuro.