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Destroyer-Dan

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Everything posted by Destroyer-Dan

  1. so after all that I replaced the glow plug module and it resolved my issues 🤣
  2. thank you mate highly appreciate all the help you've given me
  3. the car is still going well the only issue i have is cold starts due to glowplugs misfire and smoke for a couple of seconds it sorts itself out so im going to replace the glowplugs and the module and hopefully that should solve it
  4. So today I decided to put the car on the road as it had been sat for nearly a year I gave it a good long run with some high revs driving in 3rd gear 50mph and the smoke seems to have completely cleared up not sure if its the work i carried out on the car or it just needed to stretch its legs but possibly both ill check again in the morning but hopefully thats the end of that issue
  5. thank you mate highly appreciate the guidance and advice your a life saver
  6. no my idle needle stays at the same point on the odometer just juddering but i know 100% thats due to the crankpulley but the valve stem seals have gone on the engine so im thinking of just swapping the engine thats only done 72k
  7. Thank you mate highly appreciate the help im thinking of buying another engine for it, it has 72k miles on it but the engine has been stores for 2 years so im not sure if it will be ok or not but its only going to cost £150 so im considering it as i will make my money back just in weight of the engine apparently it was mint and the chap selling it was saving it for himself but never got round to using it and is now selling it as he now needs the space its taking up ill give you another update and let you know what i decide to do
  8. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I love that hahahaha Do you think that theory seems logical or am I just pis**ng in the wind hoping not to get wet
  9. ok so after doing some more digging on the internet ive been able to link the issues ive had and ive came up with a theory {correct me if im wrong} a brief version of events * Problem 1 - A lot of smoke was coming out of the oil dip stick tube when the dip stick was removed which indicated to me the crankcase pressure is to high } - solution replaced crankcase ventilation valve (original factory CCVV was full of dry carbon & blocked) .. replaced air filter, oil change & oil filter and this fixed crank case pressure and no more smoke coming out oil dip stick tube. * Problem 2 - blue smoke & exhaust fumes coming out of the exhaust } - Theory....Due to Problem 1 crank case pressure being so high that has forced the oil to seep past the turbo seals on the exhaust side of the turbo and leak oil into the CAT/DPF system } so i need take the car on a long drive to be burn the oil out of the exhaust system this will stop the blue smoke ? [the reason i think this will work is because i've been searching online and apparently oil seal have a small gap like a piston ring does and they don't actually blow out like i imagine a seal to blow out they are designed this way to prevent turbo from being damaged by high crank case pressure this allows pressure to be released through the gap of the turbo seals... it has to go some where... right?... so I don't believe the turbo oil seal are permanently damaged or need replacing due to the design of them ?] * Problem 3 - Engine Judder so I discovered that the engine judder hasn't gone away as its being caused by the crank pulley being worn... visually it looks ok but upon removing both drive belts the crank pulley does have play from the rear (the bit closet to the engine) and every time the engine judders the tensioner moves in sync with it I've watched some Youtube videos that show the symptoms of a bad crank pulley and my issue is identical so replacing that will fix that issue P.O.A * Clean air intake manifold, ports & valves * Clean boost pipes & intercooler * Clean EGR system * Replace Crank pulley * Take for a long drive in hope that it burns the oil out of the exhaust system hopefully this is the solution to my problems
  10. Ok so another update I removed the actuator and dismantled it sprayed contact cleaner on the internal component of the actuator and that actuator is operating perfectly now I checked the live data in ista (% values) and when I rev it shows me exactly what percentage the actuator moves which again working perfectly. I operated the turbo vanes by hand while the actuator was drying out from the contact contact cleaner and I could feel stiff spots in the vanes but have now freed that up with a tiny bit of persuasion I have no turbo whilst now which is a good thing but I still have blue smoke at first i thought it was white but i guess that video was taken at night so harder to see here is a new video taken during the day which shows its blue I just hope it is the turbo seals and not something worse like valve stem seals or piston ring wear The smoke gets worse with acceleration 20230222_134811.mp4
  11. So a little update I've replaced the crankcase ventilation valve that's fitted on to the cam cover and that has stopped the white smoke coming out of the oil dip stick pipe (when removed of course) and the crank case pressure has lessend (oil cap test) ... I've replaced oil and filter as well as the air filter the engine sounds a lot quiter than it did before but the smoke is still coming from the exhaust I'd say it's got a blue tint to it but it's more white than blue and it smells a bit... not as much as it did before but still a exhaust fume smell I also had error code 003F57 in ISTA I've activated the turbo actuator a 1000x over and over again and it has actually free'd up a bit as I did it while the engine was up to temp and continued to do it as the engine cooled down but I do still have this visible smoke and fumes from exhaust
  12. Thank you mate I'll 100% check the brake master cylinder I haven't noticed the brake fluid level drop at all its sat at the max indicator... I haven't checked the fuel pressure but one thing I did do was reinstall the injectors with some proper quality copper washers and filled the car up with some premium fuel and the judder has gone now I'm not sure of the cars history unfortunately as it was brought as a steal from auction for £300 I have ista and I have scanned the car with a fault for the glow plug module and the boost controller I assume that is the actuator on the turbo so I triggered it in ista to activate the actuator and it behaves normally so I will check MAF too ... one thing I did notice today is there is white smoke coming out of the oil dip stick when removed... No pinched wiring loom that I've noticed as of yet and no EML
  13. Sorry for the negative reply but I had a very similar issue with my car minus the smoke my car was never the same after i had my timing chain replacement so a year later I sold it as I wasnt happy with it .... I read online somewhere that if the fuel pump isn't time correctly it can cause running issues
  14. So I have a 118D with the M47 engine the cars exhaust emits white smoke and smells toxic at idle the engine itself runs nicely but i will have a intermittent judder at idle and I will have to press the accelerator to level out the engine judder .... I've removed the injectors from the engine the body of the injectors is clean and so are the injector wells...but the tips of the injectors are covered in carbon .... can anyone else suggest any other places I should be looking or I'm I on the right track so far .... I have already checked for any head gasket issues and and coolant is all good I've checked the turbo and there is no play in the bearings
  15. Ok so I've been hesitant on asking this question as I don't fancy having a virtual death but I have been curious to see if just soaking the injector tips (only the tip) in petrol or kerosene to clean carbon deposits is a good or bad idea I want to avoid dismantling the injectors TIA
  16. ok so after some searching on the web I believe that the plugs are for the heated washer jets on the bonnet ill give you an update tomorrow and let you know if this is a solved case or not
  17. Hi Dave long time no speak Yes mate I've looked on there I dont really understand wiring diagrams unfortunately but from what i have seen doesnt really give me an idea unfortunately
  18. Hi I was wondering if any knows what these connectors are for I recently purchased a 118D with the M47 engine no lights are on the dash but I found these plugs tucked away in the drainage under the bonnet when removing leafs they seem to stem from the main wiring harness that runs along the drivers side of the car and the plugs have the wording Tyco on them
  19. I will be changing the oil again in the near future and I will replace the sensor and get back to you
  20. Its more of a fault elimination process The video I have attached will be a good test to do a trial an error if the boost actuator is stuck due to carbon build up on the vains the turbo will not boost properly as boost pressure is controlled by the turbos actuator and that pressure is read by the MAP sensor/boost pressure sensor ...if the temporary solution works and the car operates properly then id recommend removing the turbo and dissasembling the exhaust side of the turbo and clean the turbo vains. if the vains operate normally when the actuator is unplugged then Id suggest looking for boost leaks and using ISTA or INPA to read live data and go from there
  21. Hi Mindaugas welcome to the group... that movement in the actuator arm is normal the brace that connects the actuator to the turbo has a bearing in the middle to allow it to move and wobble like that... you may find that when you hear the car making that buzzing noise you won't be able to move the actuator arm up or down by hand as the car is going through a process before it completely shuts down all the electronic sensors....if you unplug the turbo actuator and then move the actuator up and down by hand it should move up and down freely if you find that you can't move it by hand and the actuator is stiff after the electrical connector has been unplugged it will more than likely indicate a build up of carbon on the turbo vains this can be resolved by disassembling and cleaning the exhaust side of the turbo or you can do a quick temporary fix by disconnecting the actuator arm from the turbo and manipulate the movement of the actuator until the arm for the turbo vains become free to move again but be careful doing this as you can damage the turbo vains i will post a YouTube link to show you a quick temporary fix
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