stevew_68

I had a rather embarrassing problem the other day where as I was trying to pair my phone up incorrectly with the car and accidentally entered the immobiliser code option and ended up have to call out the breakdown people because I do not have the code and the code is nowhere in any of the documentation. He managed  to get the car started by disconnecting the battery and letting the headunit count down. The thing I want to know is if I do not have the immobiliser code is there a way to get it reset so that I know what the code is and how would I get that done and how much would it cost

I have just got a new Huawei p30 Pro mobile phone. Using the button on centre console and putting car in pairing mode my phone cannot detect the car. my previous Huawei and Google phones all pair up no problem. Any ideas. My car is e53 2006 X5 with factory sat nav unit

Yeah that's worth checking. So far since unplugging my camera from the power supply I've not had a problem but I will be up to tell tonight after being on long shift at work during the night which is when I had the problem the last time

3 hours ago, Greydog said:

Morning Steve

Obvious question but here goes, have you googled Blackvue's website to see if there is an online guide or downloadable handbook?

Goodluck

Dave

Yes but doesn't specify a car. The settings the the shop put it down as got the camera working fine but but has since had battery drain which is making me think that the settings are wrong which is why I wanted specific settings for my car and my battery type

For my E53 X5 3.0 d does anybody know what the settings are on a power magic Pro for a blackvue dash cam as I have had mine installed into the car after taking it from my previous car and the guy who installed it didn't know what the settings should be but did enough with the toggle switches to get the camera working and it killed my battery the other day so the power magic pro is obviously set up wrong so if anybody knows what settings on the toggle switches should be on that would be brilliant hello spell technology hi

Took a bit of going backwards and forwards checking but it turned out was number 29 on my list but I cannot see her where to purchase it. 

I've been through the section for my car and viewed the exploded pic of the boot hatch but couldn't see anything on the list for the switch

The bulb problems I've had at the rear always seem to to be loose connections or a connection popping off. 

I'll check at site for a replacement switch

Hi guys hope someone can offer some advice please. My E53 boot outside release button (between registration lights) does not work. No click on the bottom when pressed. In fact there's no feel of anything when pressed like the button going in. The only ways to release the boot is via the remote or on the center console. Problem is I cannot find a button online. Millions of interior buttons but not the external hatch button. Does anyone know if its just likely to be a failed button or something more costly. Also if anyone could link me to a reasonably priced button that would great. Cheers. 

You are right. We did it 2 days ago. I forgot to update this thread. We took the panal off the back and a cable had been dislodged. All working now cheers

You were exactly right. Blowing red hot now very nice. Thanks so much for you help

On 3/24/2012 at 9:19 PM, Guest Mister Dabsy said:

Just to add... There was a recall in 2006, which expired some 3yrs later in Spring 2009... Any owner that contacted their dealer AFTER this time could not qualify due to the presumption that the vehicle had changed hands...

"Presumptions" were always at BMW's (Europe) descretion. If, and only if, you can prove you are the sole owner from New, then they will consider a re-fit.

In my opinion this is wrong, but a step in the right direction...

Data obtained (22/03/12) via Sandal...

That's a bit naff, my BMW has probably had a few owners but if the vulnerability is still there it's still there no matter how many owners has been through

I have a funny feeling my friend might have forced the Hatch shut yesterday when trying to get the pool table into the back but I will try the WD40 option. The reason I say it might have been forced closed is when I have just been looking at it the the end of the Hatch that is stuck seems to be further in in as you can see by the photo where has the other end the lights are flush

Yet another problem. Yesterday I did someone a favour and picked op a pool table they had bought. It was a very very tight squeeze. We managed to get the top and bottom boot hatches shut. Now I have a problem whereas the drivers side lock for the drop down hatch won't release. Passenger side is OK. I can hear the mechanism working but it's not releasing drivers side lock. Hope this makes sense. I need to know if anyone has had this problem and how they resolved it. 

Got it sorted. Was the hedgehog. Blowing really well now but struggling to get heat out of it so far but not give it a good run out yet

It's all front blowers and air con. I'm having to open my window or crack the sunroof. I went to check the fuse first but can't find it anywhere in the front. 

4 hours ago, Greydog said:

Morning Steve

My guess is the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) or Hedgehog is starting to go. These cause all sorts of silly issues it isnt a difficult job just fiddly. Google it 

The FSR is buried behind the heater and accessed from the drivers footwell, you need to take off the kick plate under the dash remove the carpet strip that runs along the top of the tunnel by the hand brake. No special tools just a cross head screw driver.

Seat right back to give maximum room then the fiddly bit if your hands are like mine, getting you big mit up behind the heater to unclip the FSR and unplug it (I found it easier to remove the FSR then the plug) Total job took me about 10 mins.

Dave

Sorry if I'm misunderstanding this, but are you meaning, unplug it the plug it in again or unplug it and leave it unplugged? What does the FSR do? 

On 8/13/2019 at 10:59 AM, Greydog said:

Morning Umar

As my daughter says you don't need them there is a thud sound when your to close ??

Omg that's funny. Made me nearly spit my morning coffee out

 

Thank you for that. All paired now. Without pull the boot apart as well 😁

Has anyone come across this problem before. internal blowers, demister for front windscreen, the max button, air conditioning button etc do not seem to work but this is only intermittent occasionally I get into the car and it will work and continue working for for a few days then stop then it won't work again for another few days then start working again. the back demister works absolutely fine so I cannot decide what is going wrong whether it is a loose wire or something like that does anyone have any ideas

If you ever decide to upgrade your mobile phone with your provider what happens then with regards to the car? Do you have to end up getting the spanner set out yet again to pull out the Bluetooth unit to reset it so that you can input the code ? I know what the Bluetooth code is but the centre console display is not highlighting the code button for me to press. 

I don't know if this is one problem or two but on my steering wheel only one of the horn buttons work and else for the size if the 2006 x5 the horn sounds pathetically quiet to the point of being embarrassed by it lol. And idea what could potentially be the problem. Could it be the horn units themselves. I've never had a car to work on as such so everything I do on this car is a learning process for me

Does anyone know if my 2006 x5 E53 Le Mans has a speed limiter. I mean the type where I can set a maximum speed, say 30mph and it won't go over that speed even if I floor it. This is different to cruise control. 

OK. Definitely worth giving it some thought then thanks for the advice

@Greydog to be honest I'm not sure anybody would want the default system as it is analogue and on mine it has the squares on the screen as if some of the pixels are not working so I wouldn't have thought there would be that many people wanting them