Recommended Posts

Hi guys. I mate of mine has a E36 323 Touring (M Reg) I have a 323 Saloon 1997 (P Reg) he has now fitted a 2.8 into the car and given me his remapped ecu.

 

when I plugged it into my car (battery disconnected first etc) the car didn’t want to idle properly (idle was bouncing up and down) and when the car was revved it would then hold the revs when the throttle was removed. Is there any particular reason for this? Was there different ecu fitted to these cars? Not sure if there needs to be a reset so it all runs correctly or not 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi James

From memory, yes it would have different settings but the requirement to 'code it to the car' from that era is not necessary.
Also from memory, I think you may have to get the ECU to learn some settings so I would take it for a drive using low, mid and high throttle settings and see if it makes any difference.
Otherwise, the sensors would all be similar so cannot see why it would not work to be fair

Let us know how you get on with it

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From memory there were 2 types of DME, a programmed DME and a basic DME. Worse I am not sure if they are the same manufacturer have you checked www.realoem.com 

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven’t checked real oem but I will do. What makes life harder both cars have had engine conversion, mine was originally 316 his was originally 320. Both have 323 engines though. It was strange it held the revs and wouldn’t come back down again. Just sat at wherever the pedal was released and held it there 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I did notice on the ecu where it says 5wk9 0322 mine was 5wk9 032 d13 so it was missing a digit and d13 on the end. Is this the reason? 

6E0FEC9E-98A7-4E7F-9CB9-09A950ADC1ED.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check www.realoem.com it is a BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your chassis number in the search box it will bring up your model Then get the part numbers and compare them to what you have. You will be able to see if (a) they are compatible with what you have

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Even though it’s had an engine conversion, as surely with the chassis number it will bring up the original ecu from the 316?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then check www.realoem.com E36 323 you will be able to find engine numbers and DME numbers then double click the part number and you will see what other models they were used in 

Then at least you have a starting point at the moment you are going in circles guessing 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did have a look on Real oem but couldn’t make sence of any of the ecu part numbers. There was so many different types but they was like 12345678 opposed to the codes I’m cross referencing 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at your pictures you show only part of the label the number on the right I think is the part number 

Just took a quick look Basic DME  was available for E36 E39 E38 and Z3 between 1994 and 2001 part number key 1241429999 if you check realoem and click on the part number you will see all the compatible part numbers.

Do the same for the Programmed and it seems they were more specific only being available on the E36.

That is always assuming that your engine actually came from and E36 of that vintage and not something newer?? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s what I’m starting to think. Is my engine possibly from an e39 or something like that. It’s defo the older variety as it’s single Vanos. It’s the ecu code that’s worrying me every E36 I come across tends to be 0322 and not 032 D13. Pain buying cars like this sometimes and not knowing the history especially when the previous owner bought the car already done 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The codes you keep quoting are not BMW part numbers I assume they are Seimens codes but cant be sure. Have you looked at the Seimens site to see which models they were used in and how friendly they are to use? As an example I know from previous experience that often a DME needs a code entered to match engine gearbox controllers?

Here's a thought that should have occurred earlier, early cars used a Cam sensor which produced a sine wave signal for the DME later cars used a Hall Effect sensor I believe the DME will assume the sensor is in fault and not advance which would explain your lack of performance. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How am I able to tell the difference between the 2 I don’t have any faults for cam or crank sensor. Only faults I had was o2 sensor heater but the wiring and relay was missing can’t find it anywhere. So that explains that. Other code I had was for MAF. Fitted a new working maf infact fitted a few known workers and it made the car as slow as a 1.0 micra

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your engine is an early version (pre 2001) the part number on the Cam sensor should read 12141703221 or 12141730028 as far as I can tell. If the o2 sensor wiring is missing then the DME will be confused on mixture settings so may have a "limp mode" setting I don't know if that can be over ridden or over written to give you performance back.

As said in earlier posts 160/170 bhp in a stripped out shell should feel pretty lively just another thought the CAT isn't clogged is it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

James

I have been talking to an old friend who is still heavily involved with BTC cars about your issue. He tells me that the tuners liked the early 323 engine as it was so strong, but pre 96 cars the DME had to be chipped post 96 cars the DME is programmable his thoughts were if someone has tried to flash an early DMEit is probably fried. His tuning tips are M50 manifold with 325 throttle body with a ram air intake (heat shielded) then a 328 twin pipe exhaust decatted, with all mods done then remap he recons that should give a solid 200 bhp with better top end. Also consider a change of Diff to 3.15 or similar it will improve acceleration.

My own tuning experience is mainly with Ford engines (4, 6 and 8 cylinder) and some Turbo charged Volvo and Subaru's (wifes Perrin Outback). My road/daily drive is an X5 4.6 V8 rebuilt 4 years ago so added Dinan Cams and throttle body 360 whp gets me around nicely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The car has a 3.15 diff already and a 328 twin stainless exhaust. No cat which goes to a 36 m3 Backbox. I shall check the cam sensor and see what the part number is. I know it’s a single Vanos engine not sure if that makes a difference but I will check. I’m new to BMW. Much like yourself I have a 106 GTi which I’ve had for 8 years as a track/race car and I know those inside out upside down and an astra VXR as a daily around the 300bhp mark. These BMW’s are new to me. I replaced the cracked manifold on the weekend and I think the car feels better. May be placebo of course 

 

i also noticed when when I took the manifold off, the first manifold (towRds front of car) has a bolt which I can imagine where the first o2 sensor goes maybe? There’s an o2 sensor in lower parts of each manifold but on one of the header branches there is a blank in place? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are they there just to plug the hole? I thought you said earlier the wiring was gone?

I just had a quick look at realoem (see attached)it looks as though you should have 3 sensors 1 in each manifold and the 3rd after the cat so if the wiring isnt there I understand plugging them probably the rear one was left just as a plug as well?  

Interesting I looked at the engine electrics and there was the option for either a programmed DME (can be mapped) and a Basic DME has to be chipped so in theory your friends remapped DME should operate though if he had it in a road car it will be looking for O2 sensor input.

323 exhaust front section.pdf 323 inlet manifolds.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The wiring that’s missing is for the relay, for the o2 heater wiring and relay. There’s usually 3 white relays in the fuse box right infront of the DME. I have 2 which is why I have the o2 heater circuit fault. No wiring with no relay means no heaters. 

 

In terms of the ecu, do you know the part numbers for the programmed or chippable ecu? The remapped ecu started my car but when the car was revved it held the revs to wherever the throttle was released until the car was turned off and back on again. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But also online I’ve found the same ecu  but for a 523i? Does that mean I have a 5 series engine? 

3915CB96-451D-45FF-B427-6A0C962A83B7.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...