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Yay glad it's sorted Donna just needed the right Tool on the job 🤣 (Been there a few times) Dave

All sorted now, hubby figured out that the pumps were around the wrong way. 🤣 He insists that it wasn't him. Thank you so much for your help.

I'm selling my private personalised registration number plate P24 BMW. Ideal for any BMW but particularly the Z4 I think as the 24 looks just like Z4. The registration is on a retention certificate. It's being advertised on plates4less if you wish to buy it from them or if you prefer you can save some money and buy it direct from me for £1160

I'm selling my private personalised registration number plate P24 BMW. Ideal for any BMW but particularly the Z4 I think as the 24 looks just like Z4. The registration is on a retention certificate. It's being advertised on plates4less if you wish to buy it from them or if you prefer you can save some money and buy it direct from me for £1160

Top Man thanks for the close out to the post

I agree with Greydog. have a look around the MAF sensor. A split between this and the engine block will give erratic air mixture. also, check the battery voltage … my x5 sometimes starts rough idling and revving when it’s a bit low and throws a throttle position sensor fault at me.

Hi Daniel Welcome to the Forum Your tapping noise could be a number of things from a sticking hydraulic lifter to a failing chain tensioner. What is the service history ? Extended service intervals can cause issues get the Chain tensioner checked/changed would be a starting point Dave

Hello, solved like in the picture. Just enlarged the holes in the copper pieces to let the plastic guides in the pad to slip inside them. It works.

Hello after some advice 2012 petrol m getting a tapping noise at cold start up goes after a couple of minutes done 71000 is this normal

Hi Allan Welcome to the Forum The fact you can hear a hiss sounds like either an air leak (inlet manifold) or a vacuum leak Both will upset running a bit more information what engine diesel or petrol would help Dave

I have a BMW 5 Auto Tourer Estate 2011. Tick-over very erratic - almost cutting out and sometimes does cut out whilst idling at traffic lights etc. Also I can hear a slight and constant hiss (not a whistle like a turbo fault). Any ideas what could be the problem. Many thanks.

Morning Damien Welcome to the Forum An internet search may give more information particularly the US sites Your BMW Dealer may not have seen it but that doesn't mean its not there. I have also read that the new cars when plugged into the Dealers system now have to be linked to BMW Gmbh They really don't make it easy do they, Technology is great until it stops 😅 Hope they can sort it with a software upgrade or something simple so you can enjoy your car again (sneaking around in silent mode🤣) Dave

You are welcome Danny A BMW Dealer will not repair anything, they just change components at the Customers expense and no regard for cost I would use a BMW Vin Decoder site put the Vin number in and you should get the original build sheet Look at the list of Codes S676A is the basic Hi Fi system S688A is Harmon Kardon S6F1A is Bowers & Wilkins. Then you will know the starting point and will be able to make choices on how you move forward. BMW Designers are good at hiding components in places where they can get flooded, several models over the years have had Nav/Audio in the boot buried under the floor. Plus many of those models had a boot that could become a swimming pool if a seal was damaged or failed so moving your amp out of the danger zone makes sense. As you had the 40 amp fuses melted check the speakers as well as they may have been overloaded For service, help and knowledge there is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find more than one near you most are BMW trained they will have the equipment and Knowledge (one near me specialises in BMW/Porsche) yet is still less than half Dealer labour rates. One of those or an Audio Specialist would be on my list if I couldn't do the job myself. Good Luck Dave

Thank you Dave for the welcome and the reply. The original unit, i believe, was the next stereo up from the base unit, not anything flasher than that. BMW are about as much use as a chocolate teapot and can't/won't tell me what i need without me booking it in with them for them to look and diagnose any issues. My nearest BMW dealer is 30+ miles away and i really don't have the time or enthusiasm to make the trip for them to sell me all the OEM equipment that was removed last time the same fault happened. The issue is the well documented (and ignored by BMW) problem of water entering the boot and sills due to a design flaw, short of silicone sealing all the rear light fittings and drilling holes into my boot floor to drain the water, the issue will continue. Once i figure out what Amp i can replace this one with, i will be looking at jacking up the Amp or creating a unit to sit it in to keep it out of any standing water. Thanks again Dave.

Hi Danny Welcome to the Forum I thought the Amp would be Harmen Becker or Harman Kardon may be Bowers & Wilkins (High end stuff) if it was OEM ? The concern I would have is why the fuses were really, well fused to do that to 40 amp fuses isn't good news. I would have an Audio Specialist look at it if you can't sort it yourself. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model the check the Audio section to see what should be there. Then look at what to fix or change Dave

Hi All I have a BMW 428i F33 2014 model. The audio amplifiers has been replaced. I bought the car second hand, after less than 3 days the audio amplifier popped and it was replaced by the garage i bought the car from (at no cost to me). However it has blown again. All sounds, both audio system and the normal bings and bongs have all stopped. I have taken the unit out of the boot and discovered it has been replaced with an Audison Bit Ten Signal Interface Processor bit drive and a Hertz Mille ML Power 5 5 Channel Amplifier. It is clearly the Hertz unit that has fried. Both 40amp fuses are welded in place and the unit stinks of burnt electronics. The Audison unit still gets power and appears fine. My question is, do i need to replace the Hertz unit with the same unit again? They are just over £600 for a new one, or can i use any 5 channel 900w amplifier? ( i know next to nothing about car stereos) Has anyone else had the same or similar issue? I don't want a mega pounding, super maxed out stereo, i just want the car to bing and bong again and be able to listen to Radio X on my 7 minute drive to work! I may possibly have included some pictures below? Thanks for your expertise and guidance 1000012573.heic 1000012574.heic 1000012575.heic 1000012576.heic

Hi, just got a new 230e Active Tourer and joined the forum. Love the car, especially when running on electric motors only, but it has an issue with the curved panel control display that doesn’t always switch on when I start up but then randomly starts up 10 mins later. BMW dealer hasn’t seen it before so it’s booked in for an inspection next week. Has anyone else seen this on on any of the new plug in hybrids with the same display panel?

Thanks for the reply, i will get hubby to check this next weekend when he's back from his work trip. Thanks for your help.

Absolutely correct my E53 runs 9.5 x 20 Front and 10.5 x 20 Rear and the E70 is as yo say 10 x 20 Front 11 x 20 Rear. Not really necessary on a 4x4 but BMW Designers like the looks 🤣🤣 ( and so do I) Hope you found what you needed Dave

Morning Donna Has the pump always been like this or has it come on over time? I think I would check the voltage at the Pump connectors so you can compare front and rear perhaps swap the connectors. If the pump action changes when the connector is swapped then the wiring needs checking and the connector needs cleaning with a good electrical contact cleaner. Dave

🤣👍

Hi Dave. In my opinion the squirt is weak, it only reached about a third of the way up the windscreen. The hose has been completely changed from the pump to the first jet, tank and filters have been removed and fully cleaned. It works but weak when the car is not running, but as soon as i start the car the pump works for about 3 seconds before stopping then nothing. The rear is working fine, it's just the fronts.

great info! 5 X 120 pattern. I believe the x5 uses 10" front and 11" rear?

Morning Terry Welcome to the Forum Are they BMW OEM or After Market ? If they are after market then check load capacity (I have read of cracking) and off set to clear callipers, you say 20" x 5 ? Is that studs I hope not width ? or are you looking for a spacer saver spare? If so don't forget the Jack and wheel brace (I know a few who have 😂) If you aren't aware check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts website put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check the wheels/tyres section you will get all wheel sizes including off set Hope this helps Dave

Great feedback Richard I am afraid all cars are becoming gimmicky the designers need to understand that because a Microchip has the capacity you don't need to use it !! As you say some good but an awful lot irrelevant being an old bloke even when I got the 4.6is X5 (2003) it had a reverse camera and sensors. Being my age and having spent many years turning and looking when reversing I had owned the car a fair while when reversing one day a passenger said "thats cool" you have a camera why don't you use it ? The current X5 has camera's and when parking/reversing I still turn to look where I am going 😅 Just stop using the bit's you don't need Most important though ENJOY your Beemer Dave