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Morning Cameron As far as I know the 18" wheels were not supplied as a staggered set (Wider rear) so should be 8J rims all round there for should be 225x40x18 front and rear you really need the help of a mechanic or at least someone who understands what they are looking at, the Rim size is stamped on the inside of the wheel so I would take off a rear wheel if it is stamped 8J tyres are wrong With Xdrive transmission there only needs to be around 5mm difference between front and rear tyres which is why BMW recommend Star rated tyres from recommended suppliers Tyres are not just round black rubber things ! ! The front and rear should ideally be from the same Manufacturer and the correct size for the car. A part worn tyre may have 4mm tread depth a new tyre almost 10mm tread depth which can be enough to cause transmission damage. If a Diff is damaged cost will be around £800 to £900 for the Diff plus fitting if the transfer case is damaged you could be looking at a BIG bill Dave

Lift the car up and see if the wheel moves freely when the handbrake is off. then its brake disc pads without copper grease.

My immediate guess is the handbrake shoes are too tight. People forget they are in there, separate from the disk pads. how old are brakes?

Hi, Can someone help me to identfy what is the noise coming from X3 and the real reason for this? Thanks VID-20250425-WA0000.mp4

Hi , sorry been in work all day. Front Both sides 225/45/R18 95y Rear Both. 255/40/R18. SPORTDRIVE

But What size front are 225x?x? rear the same 255x?x? If wheels are 17" they should be 7.5J rims 18" 8.0J rims 19" should be 8.0J all round or if wider rears then 8j front and 9j rear The ONLY wheel set that has wider rear rims is 19" so if your car has 17" or 18" wheels the tyres are probably wrong just checking the width does not make them correct Dave

Just checked again and rear (new) are 255 and front are 225

Hi Cameron That sounds wrong for an X! to me unless the rear wheels are wider than the front If your wheels are 17" tyre size should be 225x50x17 94H front and rear 18" Wheels tyres should be 225x45x18 or if wider rims at the rear 255x40x18 at the back 19" rims tyres should be 225x40x19" front 255x35x19" rear As I have said check very carefully if the rear tyres are 255 but should be 225 then the distance they cover each rotation will be to much of a difference between front and rear and will cause damage Dave

Hi many thanks, not knowing anything about cars, just checked and I have 255's on rear and 225's on front , is this correct.

Hi Cameron From your description and the additional information it sounds like transmission wind up, probable cause is the rear tyres being new have a larger rolling radius than the front that is putting strain on the transfer case and also the diffs. I would check them carefully tyres are much cheaper than a new Diff or Transfer Case Dave

Just took it out to see if I could pinpoint problem. It seems to happen at low speed eg when in slow traffic, then I go to accelerate in 2nd say, it feels a little bumpy but stops when build up speed.

Hi, It's an X Drive, recently had 2 new rear tyres, have had them checked. Front tyres are the same. Happens when goingbin straight line. Happens when just driving along, intermittently.

Morning Cameron Welcome to the Forum A bit more information would help us make a guess at what is happening Which X1 model do you have Front wheel drive or X drive? What condition are the tyres and are they all the same make? When the bumby ride happens is it on the straight or in bends does it vary with speed? Does it happen under acceleration? Dave

Morning Paul Check the auction sites and internet for averages, Glass's Guide will give trade values The bottom line is it is worth what someone is willing to pay Dave

Have a 2010 X1 Deisel, recently I have noticed that every now and then it feels like I am going over bumps, doesn't happen all the time.

Hi I selling my 2012 528i msport in excellent condition with 114560 miles . Has anyone has any idea how to advertise it for

Decided on reflection, that from these red flags and service history/MOT concerns, I'm not going ahead with the purchase. Thanks for the advice!

Good morning and hello! Thank you for the post and advice, do appreciate it. Tbh, I wasn't massively too bothered at first. It's on the right hand side of the bumper with it sprayed all across the side, so it's definitely had a nudge enough to warrant spraying the bumper. I think where it started to go off for me is when I closed the door with a fairly decent push and clunk noise, and it didn't close. It did this a few times. Coupled with the dings/stretches in the paint on the window trim made me think, hang on, has the door had a whack too and is the frame or door out of alignment. Like I said, I loved the car otherwise but this is a niggle that has bothered me. Hence, I'm thinking am I right to be concerned, or overreacting.

Morning Billy Welcome (almost) to the Forum Unfortunatley due to the low ride height on the M cars it isn't unusual for them to suffer front bumper/splitter damage. My next door neighbour has a 335i coupe which he loves and works hard to keep it pristine, he has had 3 incidents (2 of his own and 1 of his wifes) where parking nose in and there had been a raised kerb he has had 2 paint repairs and then made the decision to replace the bumper completely all unrecorded as he just loves his car. If your happy with the car and more important happy with the standard of repair/restoration the Selling Garage have done then why not buy it. Obviously you have to remember it is a 10 year old car so final inspection is your responsibility if still unhappy either negotiate a price that lets you get the work done to your own standards or walk away. I take it you have ensured all switches and toys are working as they should Good luck with the purchase hope you enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hey guys, Hope you're all well. I'm new here, so hello! I'm after some points of view please if possible. So, I viewed a 2014 m235i today with 53k miles. The car looked gorgeous and ticked a lot of boxes for me. It drove well; steered straight, sounded delicious and went well. Gearbox precise, steering had no vibrations, no knocking sounds or other suspicious sounds etc. Albeit, a few things drew my attention. The salesman did point out the front bumper in all fairness, citing some orange peeling on the right hand (O/S) of the bumper and a small crack on the splitter. He stated that it may have had some damage to the bumper, but the car is hpi clear and there isn't evidence of any further damage beyond the bumper. I checked the front cross member and there wasn't anything obvious bar some small bubbling spots on the metal in places and slightly rusty looking bolts. He has offered for the bumper to be redone if it bugs me... The other thing I then noticed is the driver's door didn't close properly at first. Second attempt and harder did close it. Salesman was curious and did point out that it could be the seal; pushing it in did somewhat help, but he offered to look into it to see if the latch can be adjusted. I noted that the trim (coloured black instead of chrome) around the bottom of the window had flaked off in a certain spot and had some striations. The trim around the left side of the window had a small crack too. The passenger side seemed fine. The price, mileage and owners are all fine. Alloys immaculate and tyres brand new (Michelins), new brakes etc, plus the garage appeared clean, professional, and the salesman is a BMW enthusiast. So some positives. But am I right to be concerned that it's potentially had a knock (unrecorded)?

Hi Ken Depending what OBD reader your using will either give Generic codes or if it is a fully BMW capable one then you should get better results (I use BMW ISTA/INPA) First I would check near the front fuse panel on the side behind the trim you should find a Multiple Earth point (BMW love these) check it carefully they were a well known source of problems on the E53 and E70. If you have a wiring diagram it may help idntify which pins to check continuity on. As far as I am aware the JBE with integrated PDC is just that it may mean a complete unit which will need coding to the chassis. Unless of course someone like ECU Testing (Derby I think) can fix it but that may put the car off the road for a few days Or as my daughter once told me "you don't need all that stuff Dad there is a Thud when your to close" 🤣 Dave

Great thank you Dave. I assume if I have continuity from this connector to the wiring behind the bumper then there is an issue with the JBE itself. Do you know if there is a module or anything on the JBE that could be in fault or am I looking at a complete replacement unit?

Hi, I have a problem with my 2011 X5 front parking sensors. I have used an OBD reader to check the failure codes and it appears all 4 front sensors have a ground or open circuit fault. I have checked the wiring harness for the front sensors and the main plug behind the bumper and all seem fine with no damage. I assume this must be the PDC module as it’s all the front not the odd sensor. But I cannot find it anywhere. can any one help please?

Update! … bonnet and boot sourced and awaiting delivery from a very nice guy who breaks BMWs… Tim at bmw classic spares in Northampton. once they are on, I’ll set about polishing the whole car and try to hide the side scratches. It’ll be like a new un!

Hi Ben Without carrying out a full test on each TMS it is difficult to say. I would check the internet for any test criteria then start with the good one note the results then test the faulty one to compare. All I found on the TIS is it is likely to be the LED's (2 of them) how simple it is to change them I have no idea. As an Example I recently had a failed Halo/Parking lamp on my E70 checked ISTA says remove cover 3 screws remove 2 further screws and the lamp is out Ha Ha Ha. What i discovered in WIS was a note that says remove Headlamp from the car to access the screws. Dave