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Hi all I've got a bmw 1 series 116i msport 2014 I was moving the passenger wing mirror an it just stopped working now I carnt use any windows or wing mirrors on the drivers side main switch I've bought a new switch an that doesn't work I've checked fuse with a multi meter an all fine Any ideas Thanks simon

Hi Dave, Many thanks for your reply, yes i would always DIY this … I am fully aware of realoem and have indeed been researching a replacement front diff. anything i’m looking at will be factoring in new oil seals to be fitted also, along with the correct spec diff oil.. will keep this post informed of the outcome.. Dave 👍

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum Gear changes up or down should be really smooth the movement shown in your Video definately isn't right. It raises some issues for you as BMW don't repair anything just replace assemblies then retain the damaged item so few appear on the aftermarket If you aren't aware look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the front axel assembly for the part number you need. If I recall the 8 speed transmission has 1-3.15 ratio diff but check that as I am an old bloke 🤣 Once you have the part number search onine for the best price a low milage Diff from a Dismantler may be the best cost option, I would expect a Dealer to be around £1k+ plus fitting if you can DIY then a refurbished Diff may be available I would guess £6-700 plus fluid would be my guess Most cases of Diff damage and Transfer case damage I have seen are the result of incorrect tyres or in one instance a single tyre replaced on the front (nearside new ofside around 5mm tread the difference was enough to cause damage. The E70 up to 2010 and F15 that followed were more robust in the transfer case than the E53 but the result is Diff issues Hope this helps Dave

Good morning All, just joined the forum as just bought a 2012 X70 X5 30d. However, i have found an issue after driving it for a week or so now. So, when coming to a halt normally, the downshifts (or what feels like the downshifts) are very harsh. Feels almost as though there excessive binding / looseness or grabbing in the front somewhere - a bit like if you had an Extremely warped brake disc. This is only when coming to a slow stop at say 20mph down to 0. I have gone underneath today and found an oil leak from the front Diff (appears to be from Nearside driveshaft output seal on the diff) as it’s VERY wet everywhere. When roating the wheels, the prop shaft input from the transfer case IMG_3518.mov in to the front diff also seems excessively worn / too much play. I’ve taken a video and will atempt to attach. I’ve looked on other forums at previous posts and it maybe that this movement is normal, but this isn’t just backlash but lateral movement also. personally i think the oil leak has damaged the front diff to a point that i need to replace it.. Has anyone seen silimar or able to advise please..? many thanks in advance, Dave.

Just wondering if any members have purchased the new model. I have the 2.0 petrol fully loaded in Brooklyn Grey. I have to say the drive is so much better regards steering input than my 21 plate Diesel X3 was, also the new i drive 9 along with the amazing Tec the car is fantastic.

I think the biggest problem today is everything being done at arms length email and internet BMW like many large organisations are losing contact with their customers and as said the Dealer tends to be the only "face" you see. Poor communication is not acceptable and just alienate all of us and assuming that because they have supplied a car it makes it OK they forget it wasn't/isn't what you paid for. Definatley time for a prod with a very sharp stick thereare several posts on here from owners with the same issue gather the evidence it can only strengthen your case. Good Luck Jan Dave

Hi James, yes… use the applicator pad to apply the scratch x and then buff along the scratches. Then remove it using the buffing cloth… repeat if necessary, then, when you are happy with the result, do the same with the turtle wax.

Thank you, I think that is my next step, it's worth a try before getting a solicitor involved. Such a shame, I've had many BMWs before and never had any problems, it's certainly putting me off!

Morning Jan Welcome to the Forum Oh dear yet another one!! After that length of time I would be writing to the Dealer (I know he is Pig in the Middle but you have to begin somewhere) with a copy to BMW UK clearly stating the time line and using language from the Sale of Goods Act stating that as it has been so long without resolution and poor communication clearly the car is "not fit for purpose" and you want them to give a clear time line on either Replacement or a Full Re-fund I hope you can get it sorted Dave

Hi Stu, thanks for your reply. I am pretty clueless with body work repair as not attempted before. So your process is to use the McGuires compound X, which you apply with an electric polisher/buffer then finish with the appropriate colour Turtle Wax? So just a 2 step process (apart from cleaning the area and then waxing afterwards)? Thanks again

Hi James. Having just fallen foul of children drawing on the car I can recommend mcguires scratch X. I have a polishing machine and buffed the light scratches out well. https://ebay.us/m/G1orVi something like this. then turtle wax polish black afterwards.

Hi all, I purchased this 2020 G31 a few weeks ago. It has some light exterior scratches on both some of the metal and plastic. I haven’t attempted to polish any out before but am thinking of having a go. What products would you recommend for both surfaces and are there any good YouTube videos that you’d recommend? Many thanks

Thanks again for your advice Dave. Oil and filter change all sorted now. Did the air filter too. Next job, repairing light scratches, will search the forum for some advice there now too 👍

Argh, don't tell me that! Just looking in my warranty and it's not covered either.🙄

My X1 - Sept 24 manufacture - has been with the dealership for 11 weeks now having been confirmed as one of the vehicles affected by this recall. I know it's not the dealers fault but I'm frustrated by the lack of information coming back on how BMW intend to resolve the issue. As far as I'm aware 2 lots of filings samples have been seen to Germany so far and there's been no update since 12th May other than 'we're chasing it every day for you' I have been given a hire car which is an Enterprise Rent-a-car 320. Nice car but not suitable as I bought the X1 for mobility reasons. BMW customer experience promised me, on 1st May, a more suitable loan vehicle but so far they've delivered an iX1 after confirming they were sending an X2 (I have no changing point or anywhere to charge one) and last week another 320 (??) Today I have had an email from BMW Customer Support informing me that the 'delivery stop' is being given the full attention and priority of BMW and that "there isn't a department or level within BMW that can speed up this situation for you or provide extra information." Trying to calm down before composing a suitable response. Considering legal action now but I waited 7 months for my very nice X1 and I really don't want to be looking for something else by forcing BMW's hand to buy it back. I might take the advice from others on here first, quote the Sale of Goods Act to them, and see what comes back. Any other advice would be greatly received..

We soooo love an optomist Stu 🤣 If the wire colours were different that is reall wierd Dave

Hi. I picked up my new BMW 320i (2014) yesterday and have been trying to connect my iphone 12 to the built in multimedia system. I want to use my phones sat nav and Spotify to play music. The issue is that when I connect my phone via the USB, the phone charges (which is great and shows me it works), then it thinks for a few seconds then says "Not supported". Any idea how to fix this? Also, was wondering how to update to the latest software version in case its that, but it seems it needs a mechanics computer (seems very over complicated!)

Thanks mate. I have checked the crimping and it’s all good. what might throw it out is the wiring all being different colouring, so I might have a permanent live swapped with a switched live… obviously I wouldn’t be able to tell until the car is sleeping and I don’t know where each live controls . I have a clamp meter en route, I’ll find it! it can’t be that difficult, there is only about 15 wires in the top boot and no exterior lights. surely it’s a lock button, wiper and 2x interior lights. The brake light was not cut along with the aerial module on the spoiler.

I would double double check your crimping is there a stray wire strand thats touching something it shouldn't? According to my ex-neighbour (Now a High Up BMW man based the USA) it was late 2003 early 2004 before there were any changes in the X5 apparently the early pre facelift models were fitted with a full loom so any accessories were easy addons. After face lift you needed a loom extension and coding so what you have done really should have been straight forward (but aren't all the "simple little jobs") Dave

Yes it’s still available just had the mot done with no problem this was he first time he mot my cay and he thinks this could be the one of the best in the uk . My contact information if anybody’s interested in this car is 0750 3456 144.

In the market for a 1998 Z3 in Orinoco...is it still available?

Hi Dave. The lock and button are from the donor vehicle. I basically cut and crimped the existing wires to the loom in the upper bootlid. the lower bootlid used the existing loom. when I had the light issue, it was the rh upper lid courtesy light the that came on when I pressed the lock release button. Left one works correctly and all lights extinguish when I lock the car.

Hi Stu A clamp Ammeter on the live side of the battery will help then start pulling fuses in the boot as it is where the issue started. Shut yourself inside and when the car goes to sleep the ammeter should read just a few milli amps anything higher is the issue. Start pulling fuses in the rear fuse panel if one stops the draw you have the circuit that needs checking. If no joy repeat at the front fuse board Question, is the lock the original or is it one that came with the bits you replaced ? Dave

Hi all… what’s the best way to locate a power drain? basically, I have changed the boot on the x5 and since then, the battery keeps going flat. I have no shorts anywhere and I had an issue where the boot release button would turn the interior light on.. I have disconnected that but still have a drain issue. Wiring diagrams are of little insight. … anyone got any tips, time is not on my side as I have limited rest between work and crazy children! 😂 cheers! stu

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