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Hi mate. I live near bring if you need anything collecting and posting. 👍🏻

Update… the garage reckon it’s the kwe and dme units have failed… It’s gone to the scrap! 😔

Morning JC Welcome to the Forum First try the Dealer trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 mins that should clear any faults, if you still get the fault then you need a BMW capable diagnostic system to clear down any fault memory. There are quite a few these days Autel, iCarsoft, and several others Good Luck Dave

Morning Frank I think Bimmerparts only trade through Ebay contact them through ebay and you should get a resolution Your car, is the compressor running but not inflating the airbag ? That is the problem worn out compressor they are around £140 and you can get them from Good Auto Factors or sites like Ebay same with Airbags if you need them about £120 should get 2. I would start with the compressor, on start up does it run until it cuts out and you get the suspension warning on the dash/screen but the car isn't rising? Easy to change a real DIY job Disconnect battery, then under the rear of the car remove the plastic under tray and cover box to expose the compressor. Undo the two airlines remove the electrical plugs then undo the 3 mounting screws, compressor out. Reverse the procedure to put it back don't over tighten the air connectors. slowly lower the car reconnect the battery and the compressor will run and inflate the suspension. About 45 mins work plenty of how too's on the Nett As for BMW specialists I think there are 2 or 3 in the Dublin area just Google them then talk to them Dave

Hi all, I have the exact same issue with my 2014 X3. I brought the car to a local mechanic. He replaced all 4 tire sensors due to low battery. He also changed the RDC sensor because the old one was defective. I bought a used one from eBay that the mechanic programmed to match with the tire sensors. The TPM works fine until I parked the car overnight. I bought the car back for the mechanic to fix it but it only work until I parked overnight. It seems like the settings does not save in the memory. I am still unsure if I have a defective used RDC unit. @Waken, could you please tell me what you do to fix the error? Are you able to use the Autel 508 to reprogram the new RDC controller yourself? If so, I would like to get one as well. Thanks in advance for any information you can provide to help! Best, JC

As could only happen , courier company saying pkg(module)was delivered yesterday.. except it wasn't.. have checked with neighbours ..no joy.. cant find ph no or email addr for bimmerpartsforless (Millane ind est Brigg!)other thing notice lately is car right down on passenger side rear now...so much so any kind pothole causes serious 'bang' from that corner !!! Trying meantime find someone here (Dublin)who would be able properly identify issue (can't afford main dealer prices) as mechanic who normally looks after car for me is away on holidays (as could only happen ) thinking too again about idea changing it to 'ordinary ' suspension if it comes to it... wondering what sort cost kit do that might be ?? THANKING you again in advance

Funny question. Does anyone know if bmw 1.4.0 work on an59 plate mini? it stopped and refused to start. apparently the garage think it’s key has lost comms, but both keys won’t allow the car to start and the battery is dying. im not with the car now but apparently it’s not the starter motor issue and it won’t push start.

Hi, My 2 series experiences a knocking noise from the front of the car when the temperature outside is above 18 degrees. This does not happen on cooler days. I have taken it to the garage and they cannot find the fault. Has anyone else experienced this?

Morning Dave thank you Got new brakes when I bought her in April, tyres are Goodyear and Bridgestone with plenty thread and the suspension feels good to me besides that I’m not certain of its condition 😄 There’s a reputable tuner nearby so I’ll look into getting it on the dyno to check the current output and see where I’ll go from there Much appreciated Scott

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum The start point is to ensure your engine is in top condition and your car is producing close to it's original power output which I believe is around 215hp, that means a thorough service and rolling road session. Then talk to the ECU tuners don't just go for the biggest claimed increase, how many have they done ? How successful is it and how satisfied are there customers ? do they have a demonstrator? With a good base to start I would expect a good remap should see 25% to 30% gains it is the gain in torque that is the most important, that's what gets you down the road 😁 However remember brakes, suspension and tyres after all if you get there quicker it's nice to know you can stop and steer as quickly Good Luck Dave

Anyone tuned an f32 425d? Mine is automatic (2014) and I’m wondering how she’ll handle an ECU or tcu tune. Current mileage about 93000 miles.

Will do of course Dave Ta again much appreciated

Hi everyone. I have a problem whith heating in car. There is no heat when in hybrid mode. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Hi James You really should get a copy of BMW 1.4.0 ($20) load it onto a laptop then you would be able to run your own Diagnostic Scan. The idea is you don't need a BMW Dealer to have dealer level diagnostics and the cost is far less than changing parts, it would give you accurate information on where to look If you can hear the fuel pump running is there pressure at the fuel rail? If not there could be a blockage in your long list of stuff changed has the vacuum line to the fuel filter been checked? The Pins are the pins in the electrical connector/plugs a pinout will tell you which pin is connected to which colour wire so you can the test end to end continuity. Clearly if there is a break in a wire or poor connection the problem may be that simple Dave

thx for your reply yes, can hear pump. pump is new and everything on dash lights up. I replaced every part that can attach to motor. I'm no mechanic, so no internal work done to it. I did forget to list another replaced part of the many I've done. I did replace fuel injectors as well. Made sure every grommet and gasket where replaced. Did oil change when spark plugs and coils done. Fuel filter when pump was done. Crank sensor when cam sensors done, along with both vanos. Replaced starter relay when checking all fuses. Every part replaced was replaced with oem manufacturer part. So yeah, don't get why it just cranks and doesn't start. Do admit someone will luck out with a lot of new parts at salvage yard when I drop it off there. I been at this for over 6mths, sense November

Morning Giovanni Welcome to the Forum Your transmission is made by ZF it is for the protection of the transmission ZF advise service at between 60k and 100k (depending on environment and use) or 5 years. Having owned 4 BMW X5's all with ZF transmissions 5 speed, 6 speed and like yours 8 speed. My thoughts are why cut corners when the gearbox is likely to have only one or two services in the time I own it and genuine ZF Fluid and Filters will set you back around £250/£300 the same applies for the Transfer Box and Diffs. I have seen alternate Fluid kits available that may save around £100 but as a rebuild is anything from £2000 up personally I wouldn't risk it. Having said that I do know someone who used a Luiquid Moly Fluid kit in his Jaguar (same Box) and so far so good Hope this helps Dave

Morning Frank As I said they don't normally break, that's why there are so many for sale second user. I still have an Instinct/Doubt it is your issue, if your compressor runs but isn't lifting the car properly that is where I would start. Again get the part number this time you won't find any second user just refurbished or New I hope it fixes things be great if it did let us know Dave

Brand new in packaging(TYC automotive) passenger side headlight for 2013 520 F10/11 09/13 Halogen W/O LED(part No 471112351) have photos on phone but dont know how add them ...do know how email though if needed 400 euro plus postage from Dublin

Great ta Dave ...i since managed with your advice to find part number for module and with that found one on ebay uk ...approx 55 euro incl postage !!! ...hopefully should have it later this week so fingers etc crossed and thanking you again for your advice and time ...

I have a 2017 BMW X3 X Dr. 28 I what is a good alternate for automatic transmission fluid

Hi James If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look at Lights section. You should be able to see what you need and get an idea of how it goes together. If you need parts you will have the Part numbers then just Google them to get the best price It was the rear unit I wondered if the indicator was a Bulb (it is on the E70) Dave

Keys! have you tried a different key? does everything light up when you turn the key? when you switch the key to position 2, can you hear the fuel pump start to prime? (Whirling noise under the rear seat) the immobiliser will cut the fuel pump so if that doesn’t start to prime, then the immobiliser is the issue and the key/ reader is at fault. it happened to my x5. the fuel pump failed on my e46 too..

Hi Dave, thx for quick reply. Unfortunately IDK what a loom is or pins mean. However relays & fuses are all good. Wont be able to get diagnostic done, vehicle is no longer on the road, have insurance on it or runs. Another unfortunate thing is, the closest BMW dealership is 2 hours away and hard to find a garage that will work on a BMW in my surrounding area. I'm all for not getting parts don't need, but to be honest. That's what I did to get vehicle to run 1st time. I just replaced old part no matter if was needed or not. I didn't test any, just got new part. I don't and wouldn't know how to test parts. Making sure was same manufacturer and oem number. I tried this time around too, but I'm on here seeking advice. Thx again

Morning Greydog, thanks for the warm welcome to the group! I do have diagnostic capabilities using Bimmerlink/Code with an OBD adapter. There was a fault present but looking into it it's showing as front right headlight issue and not rear! I'm going to take a look at fuses tomorrow however I know from looking into it there's not a fuse for the headlight itself rather the controller for the whole headlight system and a few other things. I'll also pull out the headlight itself see if there is a bulb, I'm sure they're LED though 😔 Thanks for the reply by the way, I'll keep you updated! James

Morning James Welcome to the Forum First I gave never had a chance to poke around a 2 series so some information may be needed If the rear lights are LED they can still fail (had it on my E70) sadly they are not serviceable so the whole unit will need replacing, or (fingers crossed) is there a Bulb that has failed? A failed bulb often causes rapid flashing of other indicators on that side. I would first do the easy thing and check if there is a bulb to change If it isn't one of the easy fixes then a Diagnostic scan is needed if you have program access do you have diagnostic access? Hope this helps Dave