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Hi everyone. I have a problem whith heating in car. There is no heat when in hybrid mode. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Hi James You really should get a copy of BMW 1.4.0 ($20) load it onto a laptop then you would be able to run your own Diagnostic Scan. The idea is you don't need a BMW Dealer to have dealer level diagnostics and the cost is far less than changing parts, it would give you accurate information on where to look If you can hear the fuel pump running is there pressure at the fuel rail? If not there could be a blockage in your long list of stuff changed has the vacuum line to the fuel filter been checked? The Pins are the pins in the electrical connector/plugs a pinout will tell you which pin is connected to which colour wire so you can the test end to end continuity. Clearly if there is a break in a wire or poor connection the problem may be that simple Dave

thx for your reply yes, can hear pump. pump is new and everything on dash lights up. I replaced every part that can attach to motor. I'm no mechanic, so no internal work done to it. I did forget to list another replaced part of the many I've done. I did replace fuel injectors as well. Made sure every grommet and gasket where replaced. Did oil change when spark plugs and coils done. Fuel filter when pump was done. Crank sensor when cam sensors done, along with both vanos. Replaced starter relay when checking all fuses. Every part replaced was replaced with oem manufacturer part. So yeah, don't get why it just cranks and doesn't start. Do admit someone will luck out with a lot of new parts at salvage yard when I drop it off there. I been at this for over 6mths, sense November

Morning Giovanni Welcome to the Forum Your transmission is made by ZF it is for the protection of the transmission ZF advise service at between 60k and 100k (depending on environment and use) or 5 years. Having owned 4 BMW X5's all with ZF transmissions 5 speed, 6 speed and like yours 8 speed. My thoughts are why cut corners when the gearbox is likely to have only one or two services in the time I own it and genuine ZF Fluid and Filters will set you back around £250/£300 the same applies for the Transfer Box and Diffs. I have seen alternate Fluid kits available that may save around £100 but as a rebuild is anything from £2000 up personally I wouldn't risk it. Having said that I do know someone who used a Luiquid Moly Fluid kit in his Jaguar (same Box) and so far so good Hope this helps Dave

Morning Frank As I said they don't normally break, that's why there are so many for sale second user. I still have an Instinct/Doubt it is your issue, if your compressor runs but isn't lifting the car properly that is where I would start. Again get the part number this time you won't find any second user just refurbished or New I hope it fixes things be great if it did let us know Dave

Brand new in packaging(TYC automotive) passenger side headlight for 2013 520 F10/11 09/13 Halogen W/O LED(part No 471112351) have photos on phone but dont know how add them ...do know how email though if needed 400 euro plus postage from Dublin

Great ta Dave ...i since managed with your advice to find part number for module and with that found one on ebay uk ...approx 55 euro incl postage !!! ...hopefully should have it later this week so fingers etc crossed and thanking you again for your advice and time ...

I have a 2017 BMW X3 X Dr. 28 I what is a good alternate for automatic transmission fluid

Hi James If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look at Lights section. You should be able to see what you need and get an idea of how it goes together. If you need parts you will have the Part numbers then just Google them to get the best price It was the rear unit I wondered if the indicator was a Bulb (it is on the E70) Dave

Keys! have you tried a different key? does everything light up when you turn the key? when you switch the key to position 2, can you hear the fuel pump start to prime? (Whirling noise under the rear seat) the immobiliser will cut the fuel pump so if that doesn’t start to prime, then the immobiliser is the issue and the key/ reader is at fault. it happened to my x5. the fuel pump failed on my e46 too..

Hi Dave, thx for quick reply. Unfortunately IDK what a loom is or pins mean. However relays & fuses are all good. Wont be able to get diagnostic done, vehicle is no longer on the road, have insurance on it or runs. Another unfortunate thing is, the closest BMW dealership is 2 hours away and hard to find a garage that will work on a BMW in my surrounding area. I'm all for not getting parts don't need, but to be honest. That's what I did to get vehicle to run 1st time. I just replaced old part no matter if was needed or not. I didn't test any, just got new part. I don't and wouldn't know how to test parts. Making sure was same manufacturer and oem number. I tried this time around too, but I'm on here seeking advice. Thx again

Morning Greydog, thanks for the warm welcome to the group! I do have diagnostic capabilities using Bimmerlink/Code with an OBD adapter. There was a fault present but looking into it it's showing as front right headlight issue and not rear! I'm going to take a look at fuses tomorrow however I know from looking into it there's not a fuse for the headlight itself rather the controller for the whole headlight system and a few other things. I'll also pull out the headlight itself see if there is a bulb, I'm sure they're LED though 😔 Thanks for the reply by the way, I'll keep you updated! James

Morning James Welcome to the Forum First I gave never had a chance to poke around a 2 series so some information may be needed If the rear lights are LED they can still fail (had it on my E70) sadly they are not serviceable so the whole unit will need replacing, or (fingers crossed) is there a Bulb that has failed? A failed bulb often causes rapid flashing of other indicators on that side. I would first do the easy thing and check if there is a bulb to change If it isn't one of the easy fixes then a Diagnostic scan is needed if you have program access do you have diagnostic access? Hope this helps Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum If you can get a Diagnostic Scan done using a BMW capable system it will help a lot and probably save changing parts that don't need changing. For your model I believe has I-bus so software like BMW 1.4.0 is available and really cheap (about $20) its easy to use and will actually give you Dealer level diagnostics and programming (if needed) Just load it onto a lap top and it will as said allow so much information and test ability. However as you get an attempt to start, the place I would begin is check/test the Fuel Pump relay and it's loom back to the ECU. See if you can download a Pinout for the ECU to check which pins need checking testing Hope this helps Dave

Morning Sreejith Welcome to the Forum How many miles are on the clock ? What is the general Condition ? These are indicators of where to begin looking. I would start with a Diagnostic scan to understand if there are any underlying control issues, what fault codes are stored? Next both the Inlet and exhaust side need close inspection If you changed the Boost hose did you change both (one from the turbo the other to the inlet manifold) is the Inter cooler in good condition? Is the EGR valve clean and operating condition ? Is the Boost control sensor OK (Diagnostic should tell) Is the Turbo working correctly ? On the Inlet side no leaks all vacuum lines attached and in good condition? Hope this helps Dave

Been at this issue for months. Fuses & relays are good. New fuel pump, fuel filter, crank sensor, camshaft sensors, both vanos, spark plugs, ignition coils, battery. I'm a youtube DIYer, other than bringing this BMW back to life 13 years ago. I have no mechanical knowledge, specific tools or even a garage to work on it. Usually don't ask for help, but I need it this time. Anybody have ideas? Oh... story on this issue. I started & drove it one day, nothing out of ordinary happened during drive. Got home and parked it. Next day went to start it, it just cranks no start. It does almost start if spray starting fluid, though I don't like using that stuff.

I just bought a 2018 X2 M Sport X amazing car and the nicest car I've ever owned. Previous owner had coded some minor bits on the car which I wanted to revert back to stock. Seller gave me the OBD adapter after I said I wanted to reset it all they said it's easy but he would give me the OBD incase I wanted to do anything to it. I followed his instructions on putting things back to stock, using the OBD adapter. Everything seemed to go well other than my right rear indicator has thrown up an error on the car and doesn't work now. Also the front right headlight indicator and mirror indicator also started working differently flashing faster than before. The seller followed me through sorting this out, which has worked but still no rear right indicator. We tried several attempts while I was on the phone to get this sorted to no avail. Can anyone point me in the right direction to a fix please? James

I have bought a used 2009 bmw e82 model. I was been told there is a leak in boost hose. I replace the part from ebay but still feeling sluggish. 1st and 2nd gear manages 2k+ rpm, but with pedal all the way down, the rest of the gears doesn't pull the car fast. May I know how to diagnose the issue.

Hi Richard. welcome to the forum. as greydog said, it depends on what you are trying to achieve. my old company motto was ‘nothing is impossible, it just costs a lot more’ a remap and air filter/ exhaust will show a little gain, a low pressure turbo unit will show a fair gain. … a full engine swap will be big gains… but then it’s big brakes and chassis mods too. give us an idea of budget and dreams are and we can go from there! 😜

Hi Thank you for your contribtion to this topic. Your experience is just what I am looking for. Have you kept any invoices regarding this issue and hopefully stating the need for the 'repair' ?

I own 2018 BMW Series 4 convertible. I noticed water sloshing around in the rear panel of my two door car. We took it to the local dealership who confirmed that a vast amount of water had collected in the rear panel rendering the roof and window inoperable. We can see others who have experienced the same issues and wondered if they have had any success in getting BMW to acknowledge this as a design fault and pay any compensation. The cost to us for rectification which included new drainage system was £1000. We have tried all avenues to further our claim and met with a dead end.

Hi Richard Welcome to the Forum With normally aspirated engines an ECU tune will not give huge power gains from what I have read your 2.5i will be around 180/190hp stock a good ECU tune should see 215/220hp First google ECU tuners in your area and talk to a few see what they think outside that it is conventional tuning Headwork, injectors, Throttle body, exhaust, inlet etc a friend of one of our sons built a 1 series Drift car 2.5i based had around 350hp when he finished I guess it's the Carol Shelby question, Speed cost money young man how fast can you afford to go 🤣 Enjoy your Beemer Dave

I drive a 2008 320D touring and have a similar car which I am breaking for spares. Most parts now removed and available but shell with V5 also available. Shell still has most of the engine, 6 speed gearbox, rear axle, windscreen and dashboard still fitted. Please let me know if you are interested in anything.

Hi guys, driving around in my late dad's 2004 x3, loving it, not getting rid, realise it's got too much emotional memories. Wanting to make it quicker up to 60ish. Don't do too many miles and it's a 2.5i