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Morning Roger Welcome to the Forum As the issue is erratic I would suspect either coil packs or plugs if there are no Vacuum leaks, as the car is used little I would start with a can of good Electrical Contact cleaner and make sure all sensor plugs are good and clean, then all coil pack connections. Check all the Vacuum lines for signs of cracking or splits those are the simple practical things but Diagnostics are the way to go. I wonder if there is a member on here who is close to you? Dave

Hello everyone - I’m new to this forum. I have a year 2000 E46 323ci that has an engine that is running really erratically and unpredictably. The car is hardly used, it passed its MOT in February this year but the running poor issue has been evident for over a year. The issue: sometimes the engine will start fine - no warning lights - smooth and lovely as it should be - drive it for 30 mins or so in local city traffic and without warning the engine starts to run really lumpy - all the warning lights come on and the car will hardly pull more than 10mph - pull off the road - turn the ignition off - wait - start again with the same problem - do this a few more times - then the lights go off and the engine runs fine again - for 30 mins or so. This can also happen in reverse - the car will be running smoothly - park at home - start the following day and it’s straight back to lumpy running with all the warning lights. I have had the throttle body replaced, twice, the ECU cloned and replaced, a new air input ducting - all carried out by a BMW specialist but the problem continues. the specialist is unfortunately now not answering calls. I’m not a mechanic and I’m fumbling around in the dark here - when it’s running well it’s a lovely car - when it’s bad it’s really undrivable. my next thoughts are the vanos unit and/or solenoid valves - or as the car is worth so little - scrap it! can anyone on this forum suggest anything - I don’t have access to code reading software - it would be great to speak to an enthusiast who might have some ideas - it can’t be a massive problem to solve as it can run really well - but just occasionally! any help or advice would be greatly appreciated - or if there is someone in SW London who might want to have a look that would be fab - thanks in advance. Roger M

Morning Peter First lesson don't go to BMW 😅 Have you used www.realoem.com to get the correct part number then use the Internet to search for the best price, check out the Specialist BMW dismantlers like Quarry Motors. Or there are now companies who will clean the original DPF if it is cleaned the software will be needed to be reset so the car knows it has a clean DPF Dave

Morning Charlie Welcome to the Forum As the thread is almost 6 years old and not closed out ?? However try the simple things first (1) Check the position of the adjusting switch if it to the right (Driver side adjustment) the nearside mirror should not dip on reverse. If the switch is set to the left to allow nearside mirror adjustment when reverse is selected the mirror will dip. If the problem persists check the Drivers door switch connector clean it with contact cleaner. If that doesn't do it then diagnostics are needed Dave

Hi, Did you ever find out what was causing this issue as i am having a similar one with my 2004 320ci Thanks

Hi I have a 2013 X5 3.0m that needs a DPF but cans find any on aftermarket. New one fitted costs £3,700 and car worth £5,000 (high mileage) does anyone know where I could find a used one I’ve tried a few breakers but they are difficult to find this part Thanks

Excuse my typo/autocorrect that should be needs a dpf

Hi I’ve got a 2013 x5 that needs a dog replaced. Cannot find any aftermarket parts at all and bmw charge £3k for new one Car is worth £5k so hard to justify such a shame to scrap it. Any advice would be appreciated Thanks

Hi Paul, welcome to the forum. Try a Torx bit as greydog said. Where are you based? I’m in the wolds

Have done a smoke test and no leaks until it gets to the valve on top of the rocker cover, very new to ISTA but not diagnostics so still working through it, will try again tomorrow evening as England playing tonight. thanks

Hi Kev Welcome to the Forum With ISTA you have the right tool it should let you get to the bottom of the problem. Have you checked fuel pressure could be a dodgy pressure sensor? Checked all Vacuum lines and hoses on the inlet side to make sure there are no air leaks ? Carried out a smooth running test using ISTA ? Throttle body OK ? Just thinking out loud for things that could give a mis-fire Hope this helps Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum That's a surprise maybe the sliders are Imperial (can't for the Life of me see why) that would make 5/16 or maybe 3/8 Unless of course they are Torx fitting T40 maybe ?? Hope this helps not hinders Dave

my 2007 325i has a habit off running weird, ticks over fine blip the throttle and engine runs lumpy, feels like running on 4-5 cylinders and popping through the exhaust rev engine to 200-300 revs runs fine again, read codes cyl 1 misfire and map sensor changed plugs and coils on all 6 to be sure, still the same reread codes cyl 1 misfire was recommended changing injector so changed for new one, coded it in ran fine until i blipped the accelerator back to rough running, rev to 200-3000 runs fine again, no engine light or codes now, using ISTA, any help appreciated,

Looking for a little help ! 2015 X5 M50d with Ate calipers Maybe Im being really thick these are the really large calipers carried over fom previous model but I cant for the life of me find the right allen socket to undo the slider pins 10mm to small 11mm too big am I missing something Answers gratefully received thanks

Morning Hamzza Welcome to the Forum I have read some stories about people having difficulty finding anyone who is capable of working on hybrid transmissions. You need to search www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the gearbox section then you will have the part number. I believe some of these transmissions were in house BMW built so parts and service may tie you to BMW £££ But try the Transmission Specialists you may hopefully find one who can help Good Luck Dave

I have a 2020 automatic plug in petrol hybrid 2 series it was front end damage but everything has been repaired including new radiators. since the repair when driving soon as the petrol kicks in and car tries shifting gears the brake just slams like it’s an emergency brake any suggestions and what the issue could be I have been told could be that the gearbox is nackered it’s driven 60,000

Morning Guy Remember BMW like most Manufacturers have thousands of parts suppliers around a 38% in Germany another 30% in Europe around 15% in the USA and 17% shock horror in China I ordered suspension bushes from Febi a couple of years ago (best price) and they came in BMW labelled boxes 🤣 So if you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need once you have the part numbers search the internet for best price and supply. The gearbox is the only part where you may need outside help as it is a ZF manufactured item which BMW fit as a complete assembly service parts are available though. Good luck hope this helps and things go smoothly Dave

As I am removing my engine and gearbox, removed gearbox today I might as well see what else needs replacing so far I need a coolant hose, serpentine belt, service parts a bonnet release cable o/s and dipstick oil seal, inlet manifold gaskets you hopefully get the point where do you all source parts?

My wife loves her BTW 320d convertible, a couple of weeks back the roof went down but would not go back up. Oh dear I thought. (Well that's the polite version) Anyhow discovered rear window regulator was at fault, the reason being water runs down the window and fills up the void just behind the door which because the drain plug is blocked with accumulated dirt and bmw cover it with a plastic underfloor cover means water can't escape. Which by the way fills up and fries the battery or sound amp, depending on which side. In my case luckily not quite but did mean the window regulator was immersed in water and gradually dusted through the site which makes the window go up and down. Hence roof would not go up because window wouldn't fully retract. So got hold of second hand rear window regulator swap them over and it all works again. So please learn this valuable lesson unless of course you wish to part with loads of money, check the drain plugs covered by plastic underfloor covering located behind the driver and passenger doors.

Morning Paul Sorry that doesn't look like a BMW part number just looked on my copy of ISTA and to try and get it right I have chosen mid 2010 as the manufacturing date and it seems there are 3 choices and dependent on the lighting package here is what I have found Vehicles with lighting package S522A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63127262721 Right Part No 63127262722 Vehicles with lighting package S522A or S524A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63127262725 Right Part No 63127262726 Vehicles without lighting packages S522A or S524A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63117199603 Right Part No 63117199604 You can check what lighting package your car has by using a BMW Vin decoder online however my guess would be you have S524A with adaptive lights Hope this helps Dave

Thanks Dave, I am not quite sure which is the part number. I have attached an image. I found 1 used headlamp which I think is the Part Number Starting with the letter A. all of the numbers match except the last digit is Number 1 on my car - but number 2 on the replacement light. None of the other numbers on the labels match will that make a difference or do all the numbers have to be exact.

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then sear the Lights section for the part number. Once you have the part number search the Internet and BMW specialist dismantlers for a match and best price there should be no issues if the partnumbers match Good Luck Dave

Thanks for your reply the headlamp is corroded inside and needs replacing

If the headlamp electrical connections or reflectors are not damaged then you can drill a couple of small holes in the casing to neutralise the build up of moisture - common fault on my Harley-Davidson with the instrument panel one small hole and sorted

I own a 2010 530D GT Passenger side head light, bi-xenon needs replacing due to moisture problems. Been quoted £1500.00 gb pounds including VAT for a new unit. Would anyone know whether the head lamp has to be coded to the car, I have been told that it may need to be coded by BMW. Is it possible for a garage other than BMW to fit it or could a 2nd hand one be used. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks Paul