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Hi I have a 2013 X5 3.0m that needs a DPF but cans find any on aftermarket. New one fitted costs £3,700 and car worth £5,000 (high mileage) does anyone know where I could find a used one I’ve tried a few breakers but they are difficult to find this part Thanks

Excuse my typo/autocorrect that should be needs a dpf

Hi I’ve got a 2013 x5 that needs a dog replaced. Cannot find any aftermarket parts at all and bmw charge £3k for new one Car is worth £5k so hard to justify such a shame to scrap it. Any advice would be appreciated Thanks

Hi Paul, welcome to the forum. Try a Torx bit as greydog said. Where are you based? I’m in the wolds

Have done a smoke test and no leaks until it gets to the valve on top of the rocker cover, very new to ISTA but not diagnostics so still working through it, will try again tomorrow evening as England playing tonight. thanks

Hi Kev Welcome to the Forum With ISTA you have the right tool it should let you get to the bottom of the problem. Have you checked fuel pressure could be a dodgy pressure sensor? Checked all Vacuum lines and hoses on the inlet side to make sure there are no air leaks ? Carried out a smooth running test using ISTA ? Throttle body OK ? Just thinking out loud for things that could give a mis-fire Hope this helps Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum That's a surprise maybe the sliders are Imperial (can't for the Life of me see why) that would make 5/16 or maybe 3/8 Unless of course they are Torx fitting T40 maybe ?? Hope this helps not hinders Dave

my 2007 325i has a habit off running weird, ticks over fine blip the throttle and engine runs lumpy, feels like running on 4-5 cylinders and popping through the exhaust rev engine to 200-300 revs runs fine again, read codes cyl 1 misfire and map sensor changed plugs and coils on all 6 to be sure, still the same reread codes cyl 1 misfire was recommended changing injector so changed for new one, coded it in ran fine until i blipped the accelerator back to rough running, rev to 200-3000 runs fine again, no engine light or codes now, using ISTA, any help appreciated,

Looking for a little help ! 2015 X5 M50d with Ate calipers Maybe Im being really thick these are the really large calipers carried over fom previous model but I cant for the life of me find the right allen socket to undo the slider pins 10mm to small 11mm too big am I missing something Answers gratefully received thanks

Morning Hamzza Welcome to the Forum I have read some stories about people having difficulty finding anyone who is capable of working on hybrid transmissions. You need to search www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the gearbox section then you will have the part number. I believe some of these transmissions were in house BMW built so parts and service may tie you to BMW £££ But try the Transmission Specialists you may hopefully find one who can help Good Luck Dave

I have a 2020 automatic plug in petrol hybrid 2 series it was front end damage but everything has been repaired including new radiators. since the repair when driving soon as the petrol kicks in and car tries shifting gears the brake just slams like it’s an emergency brake any suggestions and what the issue could be I have been told could be that the gearbox is nackered it’s driven 60,000

Morning Guy Remember BMW like most Manufacturers have thousands of parts suppliers around a 38% in Germany another 30% in Europe around 15% in the USA and 17% shock horror in China I ordered suspension bushes from Febi a couple of years ago (best price) and they came in BMW labelled boxes 🤣 So if you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need once you have the part numbers search the internet for best price and supply. The gearbox is the only part where you may need outside help as it is a ZF manufactured item which BMW fit as a complete assembly service parts are available though. Good luck hope this helps and things go smoothly Dave

As I am removing my engine and gearbox, removed gearbox today I might as well see what else needs replacing so far I need a coolant hose, serpentine belt, service parts a bonnet release cable o/s and dipstick oil seal, inlet manifold gaskets you hopefully get the point where do you all source parts?

My wife loves her BTW 320d convertible, a couple of weeks back the roof went down but would not go back up. Oh dear I thought. (Well that's the polite version) Anyhow discovered rear window regulator was at fault, the reason being water runs down the window and fills up the void just behind the door which because the drain plug is blocked with accumulated dirt and bmw cover it with a plastic underfloor cover means water can't escape. Which by the way fills up and fries the battery or sound amp, depending on which side. In my case luckily not quite but did mean the window regulator was immersed in water and gradually dusted through the site which makes the window go up and down. Hence roof would not go up because window wouldn't fully retract. So got hold of second hand rear window regulator swap them over and it all works again. So please learn this valuable lesson unless of course you wish to part with loads of money, check the drain plugs covered by plastic underfloor covering located behind the driver and passenger doors.

Morning Paul Sorry that doesn't look like a BMW part number just looked on my copy of ISTA and to try and get it right I have chosen mid 2010 as the manufacturing date and it seems there are 3 choices and dependent on the lighting package here is what I have found Vehicles with lighting package S522A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63127262721 Right Part No 63127262722 Vehicles with lighting package S522A or S524A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63127262725 Right Part No 63127262726 Vehicles without lighting packages S522A or S524A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63117199603 Right Part No 63117199604 You can check what lighting package your car has by using a BMW Vin decoder online however my guess would be you have S524A with adaptive lights Hope this helps Dave

Thanks Dave, I am not quite sure which is the part number. I have attached an image. I found 1 used headlamp which I think is the Part Number Starting with the letter A. all of the numbers match except the last digit is Number 1 on my car - but number 2 on the replacement light. None of the other numbers on the labels match will that make a difference or do all the numbers have to be exact.

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then sear the Lights section for the part number. Once you have the part number search the Internet and BMW specialist dismantlers for a match and best price there should be no issues if the partnumbers match Good Luck Dave

Thanks for your reply the headlamp is corroded inside and needs replacing

If the headlamp electrical connections or reflectors are not damaged then you can drill a couple of small holes in the casing to neutralise the build up of moisture - common fault on my Harley-Davidson with the instrument panel one small hole and sorted

I own a 2010 530D GT Passenger side head light, bi-xenon needs replacing due to moisture problems. Been quoted £1500.00 gb pounds including VAT for a new unit. Would anyone know whether the head lamp has to be coded to the car, I have been told that it may need to be coded by BMW. Is it possible for a garage other than BMW to fit it or could a 2nd hand one be used. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks Paul

Hi Ted Then I would suspect a loom problem if the signal is sent and assuming the sensors are OK then there is a reason the signal isn't arriving. So my logical old brain would start testing continuity checking all plugs and connectors cleaning them with contact spray I would also check the clutch air gap just to be safe if the garage that checked the compressors and clutches tested them by applying 12v to the terminals but in the car only 5v is applied ?? Do you know what Voltage should be applied to your cars compressor or do they? A quick look at the parts list in ISTA for a 2012 F31 tells me there were 2 types of Compressor 1 uses a magnetic clutch 64529216467 - RP A/C compressor the other with a Magnetic coupling p64506805025 - A/C compressor if I understand it these are replacement parts so require the correct Clutch or Magnetic coupling to be moved over So is the part correct for your car ? If you can't check yourself then you may need a good Auto Electrician or AirCon Specialist Dave

Afternoon Dave, Thanks for the message. The original garage tested various compressors and ones that they knew were working from other cars. They also tested different dashboards from working cars and the clutch still did not engage. From what I understand the control module is sending the signal for it to start but for whatever reason it does not kick the compressor on.

Hi Ted Just the weather to have aircon issues 😅 You say anew compressor was fitted but did they fit a compressor complete with clutch mechanism or did the clutch get transferred to the new compressor ? Has the loom to the compressor been tested for continuity they may seem dumb questions but all to often it's the dumb stuff that catches us out. Ask if the clutch airgap was checked and what it measured? I have seen 3 compressors with sticking clutches 2 of them just needed the air gap adjusting (to large and the clutch won't activate) to have them operating and 1 just needed a squirt with WD40 I am not an AC guru but I have fixed enough of the simple things. Check the airgap you can do it with feeler gauges should normally be between 0.3mm and 0.8mm the gap can be adjusted with shims check the internet for Vids and how too's Hope this helps Dave

The system has been pressure tested multiple times and there are no leaks.

I wonder has anyone actually checked the A/C gas pressure and/or the pressure sensor/switch as if this is below range then quite possibly the compressor would not run to avoid damage. I would be tempted to take it to an air conditioning specialist for further checks, physical rather than electronic