karlos2010uk

If you take the door card off and have a look at the rail that the window sits on... from what I see on mine there is two points where the window fastens to the rail, maybe there is an adjuster on the window motor or on the rail somewhere just a thought...

Hi Dabsy, which method are you referring to, I was hoping to access the diag mode to check the setting as mentioned in my earlier post... however when I do the press the trip reset and turn the key to position 2 all I get is a cycle of 6 screens and then the needles go up and down in some sort of self check fashion..

Hi again, seems there may be some calibration to the OBC MPG readings... I found after a good search that you can access a diag mode on the cluster panel by the method... ***************************************** To access the diag mode, put the ignition onto pos 0 and hold the trip reset button which protrudes from the cluster, while holding the trip reset, turn to pos 2. You will see the orange mileage display will display t_est or something. To access some of the functions, including the recalibration of fuel, you need to unlock the cluster. If you do not start cycling within a couple of seconds, the display will revert to normal and you will have to go again. So, once you have turned to pos2 and the display reads test, start pressing the trip button and you will see it will cycle up through 1 .. .2 . . . .3. . . .4 etc. Go to 19 and let go of it. The same principle applies for all modes. You get to the one you want and stop, after a couple of seconds, the cluster "drops" into that mode. You can then use the trip reset button to cycle through the sub menus in each mode. So, we are at 19, unlock, after a couple of seconds, it will flash unlock . . . . lock. . . . .. . unlock. Press the trip reset on unlock and it will go back to zero. The cluster is now unlocked for this session. It will lock again when the ignition is switched off. If you just want to adjust the MPG correction factor, now go to 20 and let it "drop in" to this level. Then look down to the bottom of the post for the explanation about mode #20. TEST-NR. 20 KVBR: 1000 This "test" is actually a way to adjust the OBC's fuel consumption factor. There's a sensor in the fuel injector system that indicates fuel consumption back to the OBC. This "KVBR" value is used to calibrate that sensor using the following process: Reset one of the OBC mileage indicators and the trip odometer, and fill your tank. Record the actual fuel consumption for your car over a long period (one to two months at least). Divide this reading into the trip odometer value to calculate your actual mileage. Divide this result by the OBC indicated mileage over the same period and multiply by 1000. You now have your fuel consumption factor. To enter the factor into the OBC, get into Test 20 and press Reset. This will start the KVBR value counting down. It will count down to 750, then start over at 1250. A crude user interface to be sure, but it works. You probably don't need to change the KVBR value; the default value of 1000 should be accurate. And if your calculated fuel consumption factor is outside the 750–1250 range, there's probably something wrong. ******************************************************** Only issue is when I try this the orange mileage display cycles through 8 screens and that's it no t_eST menu as such and no option to go further into the 8 screens..

There's a fair bit difference in that, have you had it matched up and did it resolve the rub?? I would of thought this would of shown itself on the tyre wear for that side...

I wouldn't of thought so, although with some cars you can do an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery for 45mins (that was how long it took in my Bravo HGT not sure about the BMW) then reconnect, start the car but but do not rev at all let it idle for 10-15mins and then drive like a sunday driver the ECU should learn this style of driving.. or plant your foot from the go and it'll want to go all time... You may have an issue with a Lambda Sensor (usually on the exhaust down pipe looks like a spark plug screwed into the downpipe with a wire coming off it.)... a faulty Lambda will cause rough IDLE where the idle speed bounces up and down feels like the car is going to stall then comes to life... I think the only way to tell if there faulty is via an emissions test but don't quote me on that..hope that helps

Hi Kevin, welcome... there is your problem, if you have unplugged the MAF and the car runs fine then its a duff MAF, sometimes they can be cleaned with some electronic cleaning solution in a maff bath but I have failed each time I have tried resulted in braking the sensor.. Euro Car parts are showing one for £90 for your model, but I know £90 isn't a snip, give them a ring and quote you reg plate they tend to be cheaper over the phone, or if there is a local scrappy near by you could see if there is one on a scrap car, try it on yours and if runs fine you know its that..be sure to get a matching part, part no's are normally stamped on the MAF...

There is always ebay, not sure if anyone on here can vouch for this but I'm thinking of getting one for my E36... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Diagnostic-Software-Cable-lead-Ediabas-Inpa-DIS-SSS-OBD-lead-/291070916605?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item43c52db7fd

Morning all, well I have resolved the issue with the rear drivers wheel, the cause was in fact failed hand brake shoes, snapped springs rivets ripped out of the backing dust plate, the brake pads had actually detached from the shoes and everything was a bit like a Scrambled Brakefast... Still got issues with the MPG readings... the MPG range seems to go up the less fuel I have... lol

Update - I filled the tank completely did a battery reset, restarted let the car idle for a will and then a 50mile round trip, the "Range" went from 257mls upto and stopped at +621mls, the "Consum" stayed at 99.9... Did a few short trips to the shop yesterday and "Range" was showing 107mls, and "Consum" 7.2mls.. I did a 110mile trip up north this morning and now the "Range" is showing 410mls with only half a tank left.. Consum 99.9mls....Something is a miss, maybe there is some calibration lost, all other functions work Speed, Temp, Check, Timer & Limit.. Fuel gauge is perfectly fine, I can normally do my 110mile trip on less than 1/4 tank and that was the case this morning... Now something a little more drastic, during one of my short trips there was a loud bang, bang, bang from the rear drivers wheel... stopped checked could not see anything, set off and bang again, slowly slowly me thinks lets get off this A road (kids in the car) then the noise goes completely, did the 50mile trip no issues, then yesterday hear this metallic screeching noise like when the dust cover rubs on the disc and a couple more bangs which could be felt through the car, I have had the car up and checked for play in the bearing cant feel any, moved the dust guard away from the disc and bits of crap and rust fall out... if the bearing had failed I would feel the lumps and knocks when driving but nothing, the hand break on that side is useless and got me thinking could the shoes of failed and disintegrated hence this grinding noise. I tried to take the calliper and disc off but come stuck at the top 7mm bolt which is blocked by the shock is there a way round this, should I undo the bottom bolt on the shock.. bearings and shoes are cheap enough so will do the job myself if I can get hold of a hub nut socket of some sort..

Hi Dilly, Yes this issue actually started after a period where the battery was disconnected, i have reset the computer by unplugging it black and white plugs on the back of it, ive done a battery reset, i thought it was right for a while yesterday as it was reading 266mls on just over half a tank but by the time i'd done 110mls travelling home the range had gone up to 450+ miles... and the consum was at 99.9 again.. I am going to try the reset with a full tank of fuel see if that helps at all..

Hi All, hope you are all well.. The digital computer on my 1994 320i se has developed an issue with the RANGE and CONSUME functions, RANGE starting showing 696mls at 3/4 tank (now showing 251mls at just over 1/4) and the CONSUME1 & 2 show 99.9 even after I hold reset button and reset to 0.00 as soon as I set off it goes to 99.9... Would I be right to assume that there is sensor on the tank or somewhere else that may be faulty... can these be replaced..

Thanks Dabsy, I will need to have a good look tonight... the noise is present all the time hot or cold but as I say only between 800-1000rpm... the garage did make a note on the service sheet "due timing belt" as they would with a car that's done 159k (is it belt or chain? Its the M52 later 2.0ltr engine...)... maybe they have moved pulled on something and now I have a whine... it was totally fine before going in for service so they must of unsettled something...

Hi All, Firstly just like to say how pleased I have been with my £350... 320ise had it now since March 2012 which is when I 1st came on here, I have never needed to ask for any help as nothing has ever gone wrong with it surprising for a car nearly 20yrs old... that is until now!! I sent it for a service three weeks ago, Oil\Filter and F\Brakes since then I have noticed a mechanical whining noise from the engine at around 1000rpm you can also hear it... its started to really bug me now... the noise is there when I rev the engine from 800rpm - 1000rpm you can almost feel a vibe through the steering wheel and pedals then its gone above 1000 rpm..... no other issues just don't want to start messing with it as that tends to be when things go wrong...

That doesn't work as stated in OP.. i have swapped yellow to red and then there is no power to stereo... i will get some pics of the ways that i have tried.... its weird, im not a noob at fitting stereos but this has got me baffled...

Welcome to the site

605 is how old i'll be in 573 years!!! look forward to it!!

Voted - Reliability Although any car would be more reliable than a flaming FIAT..... Also was the nicest 4 door saloon i could afford to buy on a shoe string budget....

better to be safe than sorry with a bodge job.... good lad...

I'll join the race......

That's brilliant....alot of noise but none the less brilliant

Hi all, proper noob question but i cant figure out how to get the stereo working and keeping the preset radio stations..... I have a JVC after market stereo all wires and connectors are intact, so if i connect the iso's to the BMW block, the red to red, yellow to yellow the stereo will power for a second or two then turn off.... My previous car you had to swap red to yellow so i did this and nothing no power what so ever... the red wire going to the stereo has a smaller red wire coming from it if i join that to the yellow and leave the red to red the stereo works but does not keep presets, am i missing something here because i now have a yellow wire coming from the car going nowhere....

Welcome to the site pal... :D

Welcome to the site....

Well i been pottering around town today, i found the ride very comfortable... speed pickup feels a little slower than the Bravo but then its a much bigger car.... noticed the computer telling me a tail light was out..... very cool what else does it do i wonder....

Welcome to BMWOC