New Member: In need of some advice! Weird Judder at 1800RPM
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4
Rear knocking
Hi Paul Well 1 down main prop shaft and centre bearing to check next also diff mounting bush in case the diff is moving under load. The air suspension takes up any slack in bushes which makes finding worn stuff harder Great teachers these cars 🤣 like they say every days a school day Good luck Dave -
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645ci coolant
Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum BMW use 2 sources for signals to the temperature gauge which uses an average from the 2 First is the Temperature sender in the water pump housing (and yes change the Thermostat while your there) the second temperature sender is in the Lower Radiator hose. The lower one also provides signal for the Fan, normal operating temp should be between 75C and 115C (the needle in the middle of the gauge) I have an infra red thermometer and measure at the top hose Running the V8's to hot can cause all sorts of issues non of them are cheap to fix, the fact that your heater is blowing cold would lead me to check the level and quickly low coolant is a likely cause as is an air lock. Remember your trans cooler and engine oil cooler are linked to the Rad. If topping up get the correct coolant and dont use just water. Good Luck hope you catch it before any damage occurs Dave -
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Rear knocking
So, the rain let up for a short while and I had the opportunity for a quick look. The back plate seems really secure with no damage, no slack on the mounts and well clear of anything that rotates past it. The car is parked on the road so couldn't do any more than a quick visual around the prop, but nothing jumps out at me as obvious. I couldn't feel any rotational slack or play on the wheel either, which I would expect to find if the cv was worn or damaged enough to create such a loud knock. Kinda stumped for ideas now. I think I may just drive it until the noise becomes as constant as it was while towing and have another look. -
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645ci coolant
Hi guys I’ve just recently purchased a 2004 645ci from a friend but it’s been sitting for nearly a year… when he purchased the car 2 yrs ago he was told the temp gauge didn’t work and he never experienced any issues with the heating not working or over temp. He dropped it off to me and gave it one last blast as you would and then the first drive I had of it the I noticed the Guage wasn’t working and it was obviously hot. input the cabin heating on full and it was Luke warm for a start but then went cool, I thought the engine bay smelled a bit hot and the pipes at the top of the engine were hot however at no point did I hear the engine fan cut in …. I understand these engines run hot but I would have thought it would have kicked in.I haven’t driven it since as I’ve been working but I am hoping to have a look at it today … I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with .. 1. What thermocouple/sensor controls the guage in the cluster and does this sensor also control the fan. 2. Is the thermostat a common failure? I think it’s relatively easy to change but how do I prevent any air lock issues when replacing? new to the 6 series but also have an e53 X5 which I’ve done a fair bit of work on. thanks in advance for any answers and thanks for letting me join. regards rob -
4
Rear knocking
Good morning greydog and thanks for the reply. As soon as it stops raining I'll get the jack out and have a look at the back plate. I've had this issue on a previous car where the back plate had started to hit the disc as it rotated, but it was pretty constant and not effected by the weight or lean applied to the car. It was for this reason that I had kind of discounted it as a likely suspect. With the backplate being fixed to the hub, does it not move in the same plane as the disc and wheel regardless of extra weight or sideways load on the axle? If this is the case, wouldn't there have to be some play in the hub assembly that causes the hub and disc to move from their fixed plane and strike the backplate? Its this thinking that made me suspect bearing or cv. I doubt I'll get to look at it today as the rain here is torrential, and fortunately I don't need it on a daily basis (lucky enough to have a works van) but I'll certainly start where you suggest and let you what I find. If it gets to complicated, it'll have to go to a garage as I don't have the space or time for a major strip down. I would ask this however. The x5 is 17 years old with approaching 150k on the clock. If it turns out to be a garage job with expensive beamer parts, how far do I go? Thanks again Paul
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