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I'm trying to get some gloss black carbon exhaust tips for my 220i m sport with dual exhaust on the passenger side I have already bought some that don't fit that are for sale any help appreciated.

Hi to you all out there. I am currently running a recently acquired 3 owner/registered keeper year 2000 registered 325 Ci Convertible Auto the car was showing 29,830 recorded miles and all supported with service history and MoT history. This is my second such model having owned the first one for some time but then foolishly sold it on with a mere 64,000 miles some 6 years ago. I am currently looking at dipping my toes into a rather tidy 08 plate 635d Auto Convertible in Metallic Blue with 133,000 miles showing on the clock. I was rather taken aback by the quotation for insurance of £740.00 !! I am just approaching 79 years young with a completely clean license and 39 years of accident free driving. My current insurance company is quoting me £90.00 to swap cover from my current 2005 Mercedes C220 CDI Avantegard Auto from the middle of June until the policy ceases at the end of November. In conclusion - why is the proposed change going to cost so much - I wonder.

Morning Murphy If the Turbo is spinning up with no noise vibration or smoke, no oil leaks changing out the actuator may work Good Luck Dave

Hi Daven, Test for the warm welcome. I be always doing service according to the bmw specs. I have deleted all the codes and go for test drive with my mech, the turbo was not kicking in and even at P position, revving the engine, the turbo just do not kick in. Of cos they would recommend what to do, but I am jus praying hard that it could just be the Actuator issue.

Hi Murphy Welcome to the Forum While Diagnostics are an immense help they only tell part of the story I would delete all codes then run the Diagnostic again to see what comes back. At 175k (you don't say what the service history is) I would not be surprised if the turbo and turbo actuator were getting really tired. A rebuilt Turbo and actuator plus either a thorough clean of the EGR system would work wonders I should think. Sensors can be tested and or replaced if needed If your not a fan of DIY then you need a conversation with your Mechanic to work out the most economical route Good Luck Dave

Hi Niall Welcome to the Forum As your car should smooth and quiet some things to try in order to narrow down where the noise is coming from First is it quiet and smooth when stationary engine running, if engine revs are increased is it still quiet and smooth. If it is then that rules out belts tensioners or pulleys. Last make sure nothing is touching the engine fan Next drivers wheel off and check for any loose under guards . While the wheel is off check the back plate and calliper are the pads loose/rattling. Fiddly but check at the back of the hub that nothing is caught in the reluctor ring, last spin the disc by hand and listen for any noises from the wheel bearing Good Luck tracking it down Dave

Hi, I've just purchased a 20 plate BMW M135i. It's really nice, everything is in good condition but the only thing that's bothering me is there's a tapping / clicking / rattling noise when I'm accelerating coming from what sounds like the engine bay somewhere near the drivers side front wheel. I have had it in the garage and they said there's absolutely nothing wrong with it. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had the same issue, if so if you had managed to work out what was causing it and if required what was done to fix it? I don't think it's anything major in terms of the engine or anything failing. It's more just irritating, so if I can fix it I will do. Thanks, Niall

Hi all, As you can see i am new to this forum. I am looking at buying a 2014 135i auto. Its got FSH, totally standard, with 77k on the clock. The guy who is selling it has receipts for loads of preventative maintenance, coolant, oil gaskets etc. Does the gearbox need servicing? if so, does anyone know what the cost is. Thanks in advance.

I am getting the following issue for my turbo. Totally my turbo is not working. I am the 2nd owner and the current milage i took over from 90k and now under me, it is 175k. My mech says it highly likely is a turbo charger issue with the internal valve being stuck. Any one encounter this issue?

Hi, My 120i bonnet release latch is difficult to open the bonnet. It just started causing me problems. The handles comes right up but does does open the bonnet, I need to try it about 5 times and I am worried I will break the plastic latch. My question is there a way to tighten the cable or should I just replace the cable, if so how easy is it to replace myself. All suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much for welcome, I've done the history search via BMW dealer and there's none there! As the one previous owner was a sales manager for a large franchise, I'm thinking they did the servicing but maybe didn't have access to the BMW system to update it. I'm getting it serviced at main dealer next month and that will allow me to purchase a warranty from BMW or possibly elsewhere as BMW warranty dept pretty useless so far. Just back from 3 days in Yorkshire and it is an amazing car to drive for sure! Cheers Dave

Thanks Dave, it's just noticeable at that lower steady speed, higher steady speeds it doesn't seem t happen, there is an occasional hesitancy to accelerate when 'floored' mind. Think the scan step is required!

Morning Rob 1st The temperature sender in the water pump housing is dual purpose it sends a signal to the DME which interprets that for both Oil Temp and Water Temp I would change it when changing the Thermostat If the Aux Water Pump isn't recirculating coolant, (1) is the Coolant level correct (2) You can hear the Aux Pump running but it doesn't seem to be moving coolant so check the Coolant valve on the nearside inner wing (not uncommon for these o fail) Is the noise the Vacuum pump (constant) or the Emissions air pump stops after a short while? If all sensors are operating as they should there could be a problem with the cluster it is better to repair the original if you can there are a few companies who do it ECU Testing or Cartronix come to mind. Good luck Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum If you drop down a gear or two to increase revs what happens? When was the car last serviced ? A misfire could be Coil Pack failing Plug failing a vacuum or air leak on the inlet, I would start with a diagnostic scan and go from there. Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum Very pretty You should find the service history in the iDrive/Connected Drive or a good BMW Dealer should be able to help (they may well charge) They will need proof of ownership and your Vin With your car only covering 27k and extended service intervals now common place it may be it has only had it's PDI As for Warranty talk to BMW service if your car has a BMW history they should offer an extended warranty (not cheap but comprehensive) If they can't help then search the open market. ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Hi Guys Big believer in owners clubs, I've just bought a 69 reg 240i with only 27K from Evans Halshaw, I am loving it but need to sort out missing service history and get a proper warranty in place. I'm retired and have had various nice cars, Boxster, Golf R, Mazda MPS, but just decided I wanted a last hurrah while I'm still fit! So far I am loving this car, it is so quick and smooth and apart from a tiny ding in boot, I can't see a mark on it. Please forgive me if I ask lots of stupid questions. Dave

My car exhibits a lumpy performance at steady lower speed (around 40 mph and 1000 rpm) anybody had this?

Hi Dave thanks for the reply, it’s dawned on me the dash temp gauge is oil temp so I need to locate that sensor! the fan visible behind the rad does turn,I saw it working after I warmed it up but I haven’t heard the electric fan cut in. I have bought a replacement thermostat to fit but haven’t as yet i also found a video showing how to test the auxiliary electric water pump by holding the throttle down … mine appears to make noise but nothing come back into the header …. also I can’t seem to get the water temp displayed on the dash using the secret menu hack it’s like the unlock code isnt accepted when I select option 7 it just goes back to displaying outside temp. my vacuum pump is also a bit noisy ( sounds a bit like a wheel from a children’s bike stabiliser) other than that noise the engine sounds perfect and the oil is clear of any sludge.. IMG_2807.MOV

Morning Leena Welcome to the Forum Have you talked to BMW UK ? Certainly if the car has gone through 2 services at a BMW Dealer and they didn't fix the issue !! I would also contact Rogue Traders Dave

I have the exact same problem. Mine is a 225Xe Auto. Amber engine light has been on for some time, 2x service at the BMW garage said it is sensor problem no concern. 4 weeks ago the steering started shuddering and now sound lime a tractor motor. Took to the same garage and they have quoted >10k. Mileage is just about 100,000, 2018 make. I feel cheated by such a big name brand, the garage should have a realistic pricing. The repair is almost the price I paid for the used car. Any ideas. Should I move on an sell for scrap.

Hi Bob, Just make sure you check out the specs. If it is a 1.5l engine it's probably a MHEV, in which case no room underfloor for a spare wheel. Secondly, if that is the case it's built on the same platform as my 220i Active tourer which has a quoted 0-62mph of 8.2s. That's a bit misleading as I think that time is achieved by using the 'Boost' function, where the energy stored in the battery is suddenly dumped into the drive train for a 'Launch' effect. I don't find my 220i to be slow. It picks up quickly from 50 to 70(and plus) on the motorway if required. Sure it's not going to be up there with cars that have 200hp or more. But then if you're thinking of an X1 you are obviously more interested in practical luggage carrying than speed. Remember most of the average 'bloggsmobiles' have a 0-62mph time of 10s+. I think the X1 with the 1.5l engine has a time of 8.3s, and a top speed of 138mph so whilst not high performance it's no sluggard. On another note, just try to keep the cost, when new, below that £40k threshold, after which annual car tax rises to £590 per annum for the first 5 years for the second licence. In the end, only a test drive will tell you if it suits you. Good luck

Thanks really appreciate the information. Didnt realise the X1 had a 3 cylinder engine with the 1.5. Surely thats underpowered for a car of this size?

Hi Paul Well 1 down main prop shaft and centre bearing to check next also diff mounting bush in case the diff is moving under load. The air suspension takes up any slack in bushes which makes finding worn stuff harder Great teachers these cars 🤣 like they say every days a school day Good luck Dave

Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum BMW use 2 sources for signals to the temperature gauge which uses an average from the 2 First is the Temperature sender in the water pump housing (and yes change the Thermostat while your there) the second temperature sender is in the Lower Radiator hose. The lower one also provides signal for the Fan, normal operating temp should be between 75C and 115C (the needle in the middle of the gauge) I have an infra red thermometer and measure at the top hose Running the V8's to hot can cause all sorts of issues non of them are cheap to fix, the fact that your heater is blowing cold would lead me to check the level and quickly low coolant is a likely cause as is an air lock. Remember your trans cooler and engine oil cooler are linked to the Rad. If topping up get the correct coolant and dont use just water. Good Luck hope you catch it before any damage occurs Dave

So, the rain let up for a short while and I had the opportunity for a quick look. The back plate seems really secure with no damage, no slack on the mounts and well clear of anything that rotates past it. The car is parked on the road so couldn't do any more than a quick visual around the prop, but nothing jumps out at me as obvious. I couldn't feel any rotational slack or play on the wheel either, which I would expect to find if the cv was worn or damaged enough to create such a loud knock. Kinda stumped for ideas now. I think I may just drive it until the noise becomes as constant as it was while towing and have another look.