Jeags

Fairly easy for me with limited knowledge. Took and hour or 2 at most. Changed the belt whilst there, if you do make sure it's the right length as there are a few types depending on accessories such as a/c. Once the belt was off you can spin each pulley and locate the bad one. In my case it was one of the tensioners.

Thanks Dave, will have a look sooner than expected!

Thanks for the reply Dave, I'll have a nose around when I get the chance. As long as it's nothing urgent. Cheers

Sorry of mentioned before, started car this morning and was fluctuating a little on idle. Completely fine after a few mins. Though I'd scan the car anyway and found errors 2e47 and 2e41 stored. They are intermittent and once cleared, don't come back for a while but I thought I'd check in case it was something to worry about? E87 118d N47 Cheers, Joe

Been a while, forgot to update sorry. Turned out to be the belt tensioner pulley at fault, bearing was goosed. Hope this helps some people.

Great, cheers Dave. Will try that tonight.

Morning Dave, Serviced last in February. Had oil, coolant and brake fluid change. As of the belts and pulleys there's nothing in service history. The auxiliary belt does show signs of slight cracking, I've bought a new belt and water pump to do the job but wanted to try and source the noise so I can fix that while the car is in bits. Any suggestions on what pulleys I need? Wanted to try and replace only the worn ones but not a clue how many/which ones need changing. Cheers, Joe

Hi all, Got a whine coming from the engine that has gotten progressively worse. Sounds a bit like a bearing or pulley to me but not certain. Has anyone else had a similar noise before? Wondering whether it's the water pump? See attached for audio. Cheers, https://youtube.com/shorts/KHTM0gDOtsE?si=51zJJtmQjtydZNaD Joe

Been a while, just for an update, I fitted the other 'cylindrical' style of sensor that realoem specified and it's working great now. Not sure whether the other 'wedge' style was just faulty and a coincidence but the cylindrical one worked for me. Thanks again Dave for all the help, really appreciate it.

Cheers Dave will look at voltage tonight. I assume the car will still 'sleep' with the bonnet up when locked?

So quick update as it's been a while. Managed to change the level sensor again. Bought a working second hand one but a different style (cylindrical instead of a wedge shape), and it's working fine! Even though both part numbers are listed as compatible it would appear I needed the cylindrical style for whatever reason. Monitoring the battery closely using bimmerlink and similar apps. Is there a 'normal' acceptable charge level? Took it off the trickle charger a week ago and was on 77% SOH and 70AH out of 80. Did notice that the remote worked a lot better for the next couple of days after taking it off charge, but now again takes a few clicks to get it to respond. Checked for amp draw and it idles at 2.4a when car is off and does read 0 after 15-20 mins of being locked so assuming if I have any more battery drain issues it's the battery itself rather than something draining it? Cheers.

May possibly have a faulty battery by the sounds of it. Took it off tonight and charged using trickle charger until that registered full (roughly 2 hours charging). Measured voltage of 12.74, came back to it 2 hours later and now measures 12.4, granted I should probably have left it overnight but wanted to do a quick test tonight by taking it off the car.

Cheers Dave, will have a look this weekend

Okay will do Dave thanks. The battery is an Exide and is 12 months old. Still within warranty so may query that. Is there a way that I can check if it's a battery issue? Maybe take it off the car, charge it and monitor voltage levels while off the car? Not sure if there's another way? Cheers.

Thanks Dave. The figures posted above were obtained using the bimmer tools app so I am not sure how accurate it is. While pulling fuses I linked up multimeter to battery posts under bonnet and watched for voltage changes as I pulled fuses. So far no change.

So I believe I still have a parasitic drain somewhere. Started pulling fuses to no avail, but need to finish the job as only got halfway through. Bimmer link shows the following when car is running: Communication OK Capacity - 80ah State of charge (SOC) - 30% State of health (SOH) - 74% Remaining capacity (SOH-based) - 59ah Battery voltage - 14.6v (12.2v when car off) Battery current - 1.2a (-3.6a when car off) Generator current - 23a I'm assuming the only way to identify is to keep pulling fuses until it levels out? Must be bad as I trickle charged it last week and the clocks and dash has reset.

Right, cheers Dave.

Also just looking at replacements now, the part real OEM specifies off my vin is 12617607910. This looks more cylindrical than the one I took off the car originally. The original one looked more like a duck beak style. Wondered whether the wrong sensor has previously been fitted and I've just replaced the wrong sensor with another wrong one? Possibly condition sensor rather than oil level?

Thanks again Dave, Fron what I could tell, the cable and connector looks unchanged, can't see any wires from the connector as the wires have plastic insulation. Will look to source a new sensor then. Cheers, Joe

Morning, Great, thanks for your help Dave. I look forward to hearing his response. Cheers Joe

Cheers Dave, Same here, have a good time.

Yes sounds like it. Will check the loom when I next get chance. Any ideas where the loom terminates? I managed to follow it up so far last night but couldn't see where it went. I am also assuming there should be 12v across the pins on the connector rather than my 8v? Cheers again Dave.

And also the error codes disappear when I disconnect the sensor apart from the sensor itself and all reappear when connected back up.

So just did some investigating on the error codes. When the car is running, it sits at 14/13.9v which was a little low. Went under the car and checked the wiring to the oil condition sensor, wiring intact but with ignition on, the pins measure 7v and 8v when car is running, does anyone know if this is right? Also noticed as soon as it is disconnected, the voltage goes up to 14.7/14.8. Tried following the wire up but couldn't see what it goes to, anyone have any ideas please? Cheers.

Thanks for the reply Dave, Sorry, which 2 small wires? Do you mean the IBS cable? I will check, it looks like it has not been changed though but I could be wrong. Thanks again, Joe