JaamesE36

Bit of an update on this. Messaged to get the remapped ecu to work. Car is completely different. Feels so much more lively now! Whilst car was running unplugged TPS and plugged back in and it idle has it should. Had every fault code under the sun. Cleared codes and they come straight back. Took it for a spin and all the codes disappeared. Guessing it was learning the sensors etc. Have a couple of codes still one of them being MAF which I didn’t have before but it drives so much better. Will try unplugging the maf or cleaning it and see how it goes but was drifting in 2nd gear in the dry no problem at all which for the first time ever in this car was a huge improvement

But also online I’ve found the same ecu but for a 523i? Does that mean I have a 5 series engine?

This is the ECU I have on my car. Which as far as I can find online is a 328 ecu.

The wiring that’s missing is for the relay, for the o2 heater wiring and relay. There’s usually 3 white relays in the fuse box right infront of the DME. I have 2 which is why I have the o2 heater circuit fault. No wiring with no relay means no heaters. In terms of the ecu, do you know the part numbers for the programmed or chippable ecu? The remapped ecu started my car but when the car was revved it held the revs to wherever the throttle was released until the car was turned off and back on again.

The car has a 3.15 diff already and a 328 twin stainless exhaust. No cat which goes to a 36 m3 Backbox. I shall check the cam sensor and see what the part number is. I know it’s a single Vanos engine not sure if that makes a difference but I will check. I’m new to BMW. Much like yourself I have a 106 GTi which I’ve had for 8 years as a track/race car and I know those inside out upside down and an astra VXR as a daily around the 300bhp mark. These BMW’s are new to me. I replaced the cracked manifold on the weekend and I think the car feels better. May be placebo of course i also noticed when when I took the manifold off, the first manifold (towRds front of car) has a bolt which I can imagine where the first o2 sensor goes maybe? There’s an o2 sensor in lower parts of each manifold but on one of the header branches there is a blank in place?

How am I able to tell the difference between the 2 I don’t have any faults for cam or crank sensor. Only faults I had was o2 sensor heater but the wiring and relay was missing can’t find it anywhere. So that explains that. Other code I had was for MAF. Fitted a new working maf infact fitted a few known workers and it made the car as slow as a 1.0 micra

That’s what I’m starting to think. Is my engine possibly from an e39 or something like that. It’s defo the older variety as it’s single Vanos. It’s the ecu code that’s worrying me every e36 I come across tends to be 0322 and not 032 D13. Pain buying cars like this sometimes and not knowing the history especially when the previous owner bought the car already done

I did have a look on Real oem but couldn’t make sence of any of the ecu part numbers. There was so many different types but they was like 12345678 opposed to the codes I’m cross referencing

Even though it’s had an engine conversion, as surely with the chassis number it will bring up the original ecu from the 316?

One thing I did notice on the ecu where it says 5wk9 0322 mine was 5wk9 032 d13 so it was missing a digit and d13 on the end. Is this the reason?

I haven’t checked real oem but I will do. What makes life harder both cars have had engine conversion, mine was originally 316 his was originally 320. Both have 323 engines though. It was strange it held the revs and wouldn’t come back down again. Just sat at wherever the pedal was released and held it there

Hi guys. I mate of mine has a E36 323 Touring (M Reg) I have a 323 Saloon 1997 (P Reg) he has now fitted a 2.8 into the car and given me his remapped ecu. when I plugged it into my car (battery disconnected first etc) the car didn’t want to idle properly (idle was bouncing up and down) and when the car was revved it would then hold the revs when the throttle was removed. Is there any particular reason for this? Was there different ecu fitted to these cars? Not sure if there needs to be a reset so it all runs correctly or not

No codes for either, if fuel pressure was an issue wouldn’t I be having problems at the top of the Rev range too? Once’s it into Vanos it goes like a dream.

O2 sensors are both there and working. It’s the preheater that’s not working, I’ve been told the relay on some looms is actually in the DME box so will check there. Car idles perfectly fine. I have noticed the exhaust manifold closest to the fire wall has a small crack in it too. That’s not helping either.

Done a Compression test. All cylinders 175psi or above across the board. That rules that out. Tried to sort out the o2 sensor heater fault I have and looked for relay #3 which controls the o2 sensor heater, there isn’t one. It’s missing completely, the plug the wiring the lot. Can’t see anything for it. Would this cause the car to be down on power?