Bimmer84

14 hours ago, Rich2 said:

Just seen this post. I believe that my 320i was subject to a manufacturer recall because of this issue.

yes, seems only the petrol version was recalled. Mine is a diesel.

4 minutes ago, Trevor said:

Seems like it is a common problem which can affect other models also...how it comes loose in the first place is another question

he said that rust causes it, but it was enclosed in the passenger footwell so not sure : | but it has not happened since so the loose connection must have been the immediate cause .

4 minutes ago, Trevor said:

Try this link

https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/search?_ga=2.30320191.1280854334.1508926439-1291265006.1508926439

One more think please, while searching for I noticed there aren't many 10w30, the lowest I see is 10w40 and then upwards. Also unable to see petronas on Halfords or eurocarparts.

14 minutes ago, Trevor said:

Castrol Magnatec is a great oil but there are others that compare such as Mobil 1 and I recently tried Petronas in my Z3 and it is absolutely fine....no Vanos noise or valve rattle, and a lot cheaper as well.  

Halfords do great deals periodically on the above makes

And how much is needed?

18 minutes ago, Trevor said:

The only difference between the two oils is the viscosity or as the Americans call it the 'weight' which is related to the oil flow at certain temperatures. 

Your engine should be fine with each although for older engines I would be tempted to go for the 10w30.

However, there is a huge difference in oil quality so buy the best you can for your money.

Many thanks Trevor, I used previously Castrol magnatec which I thought was a good quality. Is that a good brand for 10w 30, if not, what recommendations? Also, what quantity of oil is required for my model.

Hi all, I have a BMW 320D ED E90 2010 with 138K on the clock. For its upcoming annual service, I was purchasing the oil filters etc. and was advised by a reasonably experienced mechanical that I should try 10W 30 oil instead of BMW recommended 5w 30 (ive used Castrol magnatec for the last 2 services). He said that use of 10w30 will also improve the engine noise (it is noisy actually).

Any genuine advice on this would be much appreciated.

8 minutes ago, Trevor said:

The 5 series sounds like a good move and personally I would chip/remap it as soon as poss to release the potential power that's already in the engine.

The autobox is certainly capable of transferring the power to the rear wheels without any issues.

I have done some research around, and getting the idea that for a 5 series, 525 and 530 is a better option as it is right for the size of the car. I understand the tax will be slightly higher but I like the sound of 525/530D.

Hi all, I currently own a 320D Efficient Dynamics 2010 4 door saloon and had it for over 2 years. Great car, reliable, very economical to run cheap tax. I have only 2 gripes with it though, it is !Removed! low suspension wise, you feel it most when going over bumps/humps when it grounds at the front end. Secondly, it is not very spacy, a person with average build struggels to sit comfortably at the back.

So in short, I have decided to buy 5 series (which is what I always wanted in the first place). I am looking at the older shape (until 2009/10). From what I hear is that auto gearbox is great on them infact better than manual. so wanted some thoughts/advice from owners as to which one is a better choice. Also, the 320D engine was very nippy when you put your foot down, with 5 series being heavier and bigger, is 2 litre Diesel still powerful enough. Also, how better is sport version than the basic 5 series, i.e. what are the other differences (apart from the ride etc.)

19 minutes ago, birdy527 said:

hi the 320d ed is at a lower height as standard than most other 320d models hope this helps

 

Thanks birdy appreciate the response.

Thanks guys for the advice. I took to a german car specialist garage to understand the likely problem with it. Upon explaining the failure mode he immediate pointed me to a loose 'Battery to Fusebox connection' which is in the passenger footwell of my BMW. I weren't sure about this so he opened the foot well panel, the red live wire from Battery (in the boot) was connected to the fuse box, he shook the wire with little force and the door open light in the interior started to flicker. Now I am kind of sure that that may have bene the problem but I will have to wait and see whether the said fault reappears. The guy was adamant that it is a common problems that the connection works itself loose.

I will still though start saving up for a new battery. Any idea how much a genuine BMW replacement will set me back?

Folks, I am having starting problems with my 320D E90. The immobiliser doesn't respond to keyfob at all sometimes. The only response I get is an alarm/tone coming from rear wheel arch area. I can manually enter the car however inserting the fob in car doesn't do anything either. It appears that everything is dead which at the time makes me think that its the battery. however half an hour to 4 hours later, car starts with no problem. The battery is original from new and its coming up to 6 years.

This seems to happen on morning after cold nights or rainy days in milder weather. Can someone please tell me where the problem may lie and what would be a good starting point in order to investigate and eventually rectify this issue.

friends, i have recently bought a 2010 320D ED model. Everything is good except it seems to be lower that usual, you feel it when getting in and out of the car, also going on some bumps the front end grounds some time. is there any way of knowing whether the suspension has been lowered or it is a standard height for bmw's.

Many thanks for assistance.

I would like to ask if I was to buy the parts myself for servicing, how much would it cost. Also, is it something I can do myself with standard tools or do I HAVE to take to dealers, Halfords or Kwik Fit ?

Thanks Bruce

Gents

A tricky one for me, the rattle sounds like some sort of a loose trim that makes noise when starting cold at around 1500 rpm. Its very clearly heard from inside of the car as compared to the outside. From inside, it seems to come from under or behind glove compartment area. It goes away when the engine gets warm. Its sounds very plasticy if you know what I mean but what I don't understand is that if its a plastic trim that's rubbing against something at certain rpm range, why does it go away after certain time of engine running.

I have taken the car to couple of garages and they are unable to locate it. Like I said, the noise doesn't sound mechanical at all but goes away after the engine has been running for about 20 to 30 minutes.

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Any help would be appreciated.

Hi All,

I have purchased my first ever BMW and thought to join this forum to get advice/support on any current or future issues related to my car.

Thanks.