Greydog

When I changed my own LCM a few years back the 4.6is had a MkIII Lcm which I took the opportunity to upgrade to an LCM 4 (more Functions) The original died following a Windscreen change (fitted badly) that leaked.

BMW will tell you that you can't fit a used LCM which is rubbish it took me longer to remove and fit the replacement LCM (about 45mins) than to check and reprogram the one I brought from Quarry Motors (10 mins) 

BMW 1.4.0 will be OK with all BMW;s (apart from Mini) up to 2005/2006 if you need any help with anything just shout

Morning Kenny

Welcome to the Forum

My normal reaction would be the LCM/FCM module I have seen a few of them over the years, however as you are still experiencing the issues after the Dealer changing the LCM a couple of questions.

1. What does the Dealer think is going on? After all they changed the LCM.

2. Has the Dealer or you run a diagnostic while the Fault is present? What other control units are greyed out? It is possible that what is seen as a "Fault" is a symptom caused by an issue with a neighbouring control unit hence what else isn't talking to the Diagnostics

Do you have any diagnostic equipment?  For the E53 the best and easiest to use is BMW 1.4.0 the program and OBD lead will cost around £25 best is to load it onto an old laptop Win 7 or 8 so even if you brought one from Ebay total cost would be £80 or so. For your investment you will have Dealer level access, diagnostics and programming.

Now to your problem, BMW love using common earth points and earth switching, close to your LCM you will find an earth comb check very carefully for any signs of condensation/water ingress in the area around the LCM and the earth point it doesn't take much to cause poor continuity. I bet the Dealer just unplugged the LCM and fitted the new one.  I would take off the earth point clean it and all the earth tags with a good contact cleaner refit the earth comb using contact paste and refit all the earth connections see if it makes a difference as it costs very little just your time. If you look at www.realoem.com (if you aren't aware) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then check the sections you need. The small, exploded drawings will help where stuff is and how it fits.

Good Luck Enjoy your X5

Dave

Your welcome Steve

Fort William hells teeth that's a mission in it's self.

The BMW V8 has some weaknesses (as do Audi Jaguar and even a couple of the Yanks they all use to much plastic these days !!) but is a great power producer. It is also reasonably economic when in cruise (well I think so) giving a solid 350+ between fill ups, on the Motorway I set cruise at around the 80 mark.

Having owned AMG's I know what you mean about not needing much slippy stuff to make brown trousers a required accessory. On the 4.4 I ran 19" Grabber UHP all year round and they were terrific, the tyre sizes for the 4.6 being 20's restrict the range quite a bit so I brought a set of 18" wheels fitted with Wintrac extreme for the white stuff got them off ebay for £200 complete. 

Good luck 

Hi Steve

£3500 is a low price for a low miles 4.6 so don't view it through rose tinted glasses.

When you arrive start by asking the guy to open the bonnet and make sure the engine is cold, if its been run be suspicious  check all the fluids are good and no obvious leaks BMW V8s have a habit of leaking oil from the rocker covers (I take a set of trow away overalls and rubber gloves) next get under and again check for leaks you wont see much under the engine but check the gearbox. 

If all seems good time to start it up the reason you want it cold is so you can here any cold start rattles from the timing chain area. now while the engine is running and warming up make sure everything works and I do mean everything (there are no cheap fixes with a BMW) if the seller says you can get the part off ebay for a fiver ask yourself why he hasn't done it? Every switch should do what it was intended to do especially the sun roof if it has one. While you have the suit on check the tyres for wear (inside edges) odd wear will indicate bushes on their way. 

Suit off and time for a drive, again check everything works as it should the car should accelerate cleanly with almost unfelt changes from the box, make sure the box is good in sport and manual modes. When its fully warmed up from about 60/70 check the rear view and brake quite hard (not and emergency stop) your looking for it to slow down quickly with no vibration or pulling to one side you also will find out if the gearbox has the lurch when coming to a stop. If the mileage is genuine the gearbox is due a service ZF recommend fluid and filter changes between 80 and 100000 km 60 to 80000 miles.

Outside they can get paint fading and peel (well they are getting on) remember a full engine rebuild on a 4.6 will set you back between 3 and 6k (parts alone will be around 2k) a gearbox rebuild between 1500 and 2500k if its good get it as they are  getting rarer and will appreciate if they are not messed with.

Get a warranty with for your protection with low miles they should take it on it will give you protection if big bits drop off. Mine is with Warranty direct they pay all labour (up to £60 p hr) plus 50% of parts. 

Early this year I had the engine rebuilt on mine (the Warranty was great) and in March on the rolling road it showed 287 horse power at the wheels. I am in my 70's but still love having a 2 ton car that is happy carting me and the dogs off road when I am shooting, pulls a horse box like it isn't there and can seriously embarrass all but really serious sports cars out of roundabouts and overtaking. Ride is quite harsh on the factory 20's much better on my 18" winter wheels but that is a personal thing.

I hope this helps anymore questions give me a shout