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jenksy0198

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Everything posted by jenksy0198

  1. Hi Rob, yes I did get it sorted and it was the Bi xenon set up that Greydog alluded to in the earlier post. It was just my understanding of how the beam worked which was causing me the confusion. Apologies as should have responded quicker.
  2. so 4 months on and still no comment from BMW. I will certainly look to change this filter holder each 30K miles. Seems good practice to do so. Hopefully BMW will think it courteous at a minimum to actually provide some guidance on this matter.
  3. OK, update on slow water leak. An inspection found that the bottom main hose had developed a leak through a sensor which sits on top of it. Only became apparent when under pressure. All other sources are visibly clear, water pump gasketing etc etc , which is good news for me. Spring cleaning coming up and canvas roof to be done. Just working away bits of green algae with my trusted tooth brush first before recolouring and proofing the roof.
  4. Confirm repeated goes. The algae is usually quite deeply engrained so the hot soap and water does need to be used regularly with the said tooth brush. Once lifted you can also go over with a proprietary cleaner, I use the Renovo products and have done for 6 years now, cleaner followed by the colour and then the waterproofer. There are other products but these ones have worked for me. Do the roof twice a year and still I get some green spots so it is just one of those things running a canvas roof. Mind you using a cover in the winter probably does'nt help things but there you go.
  5. No starting issues to report since the relay was changed. Looking like a solid fix.
  6. Thanks Dave, it is intermittent to be fair which could be explained by the caliper observation. Ill give them an overhaul in the spring and see if that changes anything and report back.
  7. HI all, my 650i seems to now be pulling to the right under braking. Bit of a new phenomena this. Is there a recommendation on checking braking balance or is this likely to vary over time. I am just trying to better appreciate the likely cause and what it is I am asking for with regards to work and measurement. Thanks.
  8. OK, further installment. Many thanks to Greydog for the input. Non cranking has been getting worse and I ordered the BMW part to replace the defective relay as noted above. It was located exactly where you said it was but....... When you open the flap to access the fuses box area at the back of the glove box you first need to lift out the raised plate that sits on the glove box tray to the rear of the glove box. This allows said flap to fully lower. I had a little play and found a press/pull up slat on the back side of said plate, located exactly in the middle. This releases the plate and allows the fuse box flap to lower fully providing access. Changing the relays is just a pull out/press in fitting. There are two lugs on the sides of the relay, one lower and one higher, which correspond to the guides in the fuse box itself so you cant put it in the wrong way around. Typical BMW........... Car started straight away and I am hoping that is the matter sorted. A £16.85 fix and a bit of research to boot. This really is a very good forum to be part of.
  9. Hi Dave, after looking through the various fuse and relay diagrams and notations for E63/E64 (2006), there does not appear to be a specific ignition relay mentioned. I am then assuming it is coupled with something else. Can you shed any light on relay location please and what it is most likely called ?
  10. Thanks Dave, you are so right about the proper BMW bit. It could well be with the sticking relay as I can hear it clicking when I press the start button but nowt happens. Certainly obvious after damp conditions. I'll look the relay piece up see where I get to and if a mere novice can change that out for a new one. Paul
  11. This is a weird one. In the winter months (UK) I use a weather cover on my E46(2006), more to protect the soft top over the winter months than anything else. The cover isnt fully waterproof. Recently I have noticed that when I take the cover off, the car refuses to even crank over. Clock is on, radio ok, no discharge warning, nothing that would lead me to suspect a battery problem. When I then leave the car for 1 hour it cranks over no problem. Almost as if humidity or moisture somewhere is the cause but once the cover is off this clears. Other info, there is no damp or water ingress in the boot/trunk areas, all battery terminals are clean and tight. Ive checked key fob etc - tried two different keys etc., all good. Can anyone shed any light on this?
  12. got to endorse Chris's comment. All about agitation and repeated use of cleaner. The green algae discolouration in particular is stubborn and you just need to have repeated goes with a toothbrush over a few days and it will lift.
  13. Yes, I think that is the way to go. Whilst it is open, change the lot.
  14. Hi Greydog, well it seems that the water pump may be the culprit. Looks like I have a weeping from the front of the pump on to a lower hose and the floor pan. Im suspecting a gasket has gone so hopefully just a gasket replace but will report back. Any other thoughts welcome as cant get pics from above will need to go from below to get pics. Chances of water pump being U/S?
  15. As an add on, it looks like Ive got some visible scaling onthe floor pan , visible from the top of the engine down through the belts. This might be an indication of a bottom hose on way out. Will advise if I find out more, will also take some pics.
  16. Hi Staff, always good to get some kind of consistency. Yes a valid advisory to all to be vigilant as you approach MOT time, especially if running tyres on low mileage.
  17. Hi all, it looks like I am losing coolant,slowly from somewhere, but not obvious. Only clue has been that I am seeing the reservoir level slowly reduce so am adding coolant more frequently. Im interested to learn if there are there any favourite places to look on the 650i that may yield some clues or is the reservoir cap a potential area of concern, i.e. cap needs replacing every so often. Any advice gratefully received.
  18. Hi Dave, I am quoting the MOT garage, when I say what I said. If the car fails the MOT because of said tyres what can I say. Whether or not there is a difference in number of cycles and /or exposure to weather I know not, but I had to replace 'visibly perished tyres' that had done 4K miles otherwise it would have failed the MOT. It was only then I questioned why would that be the case, to with the answer was the compound changes. Anyway , keep an eye is probably best advice and check before MOT for sure.
  19. Yes, I was not aware of this until last two years. MOT garage I use showed me an article on change in tyre rubber compounds and greater risk of perishing as they get to 3 years old and beyond. I put 4 new boots on Apr 21 and having done 5K since then, I do know they are showing early signs of perishing - MOT advisory Nov 23 . Quality tyres to, Nexen Certainly worth checking on any low mileage car
  20. Hi all, I do less than 4 K miles per annum in my E64. Love it. I am aware that with such low mileage though the newer tyre rubber compounds are more prone to perishing. This seems a bit of a pain when you are having to replace tyres that have not covered too much ground. Is there any thing I can do to reduce the perishing phenomena mentioned or just accept that I may need to replace tyres about each 12-16K miles i.e. 4 years.
  21. HI all, just passing on some experience regards stopping smoking or reducing smoking due to valve stem oil seals leaks. The N52 engine is prone to hardening of the VSOS as the miles go on. Mine is a 2006 E64 (91K miles now) and I failed an MOT 2 years back due to excessive smoking. After some research I decided that the Liqui Moly 'Stop Smoke' additive product seemed to be the best so I started using it. Within 250 miles the smoking had stopped and there has been no return. Last 2 MOT's passed. Quite impressed with the additive and have continued to use it on each oil change. At some point I'll need to get the stem seals replaced for sure but for now at least the additive solution is working. Always interested in sharing other experience of such additives, may be different manufacturers etc etc.
  22. OK, sounds like a need to persevere to release from the old seals. I have the single anchor point/bolt and will look at moving the unit as you say once this is released.
  23. Light units look good, not wet inside either. just a bit of algae build up on the edges hence the desire to want to clean em up and replace seals. Any clues on the light removal though as I am sure I am missing a fixing somewhere
  24. Anyone got a vid/pics on removing rear tail light clusters on e64. I can see one bolt but I am suspecting there is a sneaky second one. Any clues/pics gratefully received. Also, if I had to choose a sealant material to use as a bead what is the best one? Other advice gratefully accepted but I note ensuring old sealant is removed and surfaces are cleaned..
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