Leaderboard

I would guess £500 + + from a Dealer so not exactly dear if yours isn't working 😁 Check www.reaoem.com either search by Vin number then through the sections or by the Part number you have. If you aren't aware double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates. Then check the normal Auction sites but don't forget there is a healthy BMW Specialist dismantler network they may help Dave

I would start with the Antenna get the Part Number from the one in the car or www.realoem.com and find a replacement Changing it will take around Half an Hour reprograming your Keys about 5 to 10 mins Or if your a real Tinkerer you could take the Antenna out open it up and see if you can fix it Dave

You will become our go to man for Diesel fuel systems 🤣🤣 Fuel pressure sensor on the HPFP is just about all that is left Dave

If you look under the spare wheel you will find the battery mounted in front of the battery you should see a white or grey plastic unit it has 3 plugs on top 1, White 1,Blue 1.Black that is the PDC controller One plug is for the front sensors one is for the rear sensors the third is for the Tow Bar electrics if they are fitted it turns of the sensors when the trailer electrics are plugged in There will be no warnings other that with a full scan if I scan my E53 it will tell you which part is not working EG. Rear sensor Centre Right or PDC controller error As I said these often get water damage Good Luck Dave

You will be our "Go To Man" to interpret BMW speak into English 🤣 I would be tempted to just source the lot hoses clips everything then you will know everything is right. Don't forget BMW have a Classic Section and are often helpful on prices for classics My old Boss used to run V8 SD1's in the late 70's early 80's Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum My bet would be the Diversity antenna has suffered water ingress (common at around your cars age) or the loom (left hand side) where the boot hinge is has a crack in one or more of the wires (less common). My money would be on the Diversity antenna try holding the key on top of the rear spoiler that sometimes works Remember if you change the antenna your keys will need to be re-programmed to the car. Use www.realoem.com to get the correct part number for your car then use Google to search for the part. If your antenna is not in to bad a state you could try repair specialists like Cartronix or ECU testing to see if they can fix it. Changed a few of these including my brother inlaws 😁 Good Luck Dave

Morning Mustapha Welcome to the Forum First place is to double check the work that has been done for you to get that many issues either something is not connected or something is wrongly connected would be my guess If someone has cross connected a sensor fingers crossed it hasn't caused damage to the DME Most of your faults are MAF and Valvetronic sensor related so go back over the work very carefully making sure all sensor plugs are connected to the correct sensor and seated correctly Check there are no loose wires or and shorts Not sure what the garage did as changing the coolant system is straight forward Rad, Water pump, Thermostats, and hoses plus the fan. I would be talking to them about why you have so many issues Dave

OK, further installment. Many thanks to Greydog for the input. Non cranking has been getting worse and I ordered the BMW part to replace the defective relay as noted above. It was located exactly where you said it was but....... When you open the flap to access the fuses box area at the back of the glove box you first need to lift out the raised plate that sits on the glove box tray to the rear of the glove box. This allows said flap to fully lower. I had a little play and found a press/pull up slat on the back side of said plate, located exactly in the middle. This releases the plate and allows the fuse box flap to lower fully providing access. Changing the relays is just a pull out/press in fitting. There are two lugs on the sides of the relay, one lower and one higher, which correspond to the guides in the fuse box itself so you cant put it in the wrong way around. Typical BMW........... Car started straight away and I am hoping that is the matter sorted. A £16.85 fix and a bit of research to boot. This really is a very good forum to be part of.

Wait until they add AI and the damn things start thinking for themselves 🤣🤣🤣 Can't wait 😂 Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Personally I would ask the Turbo specialist if they can rebuild the turbo (which they will normally give a warranty) if they can't rebuild it then buy a Turbo it will very likely come with a warrantee of it's own. My own X5 E70 was brought at a silly low spares or repair price due to Turbo issues I fitted a Rebuilt Turbo (cost £460 with fitting kit) along with a New actuator that lot was purchased with a 2 year Warranty, 4 years and 30k later still going strong So as BMW are unprepared to give you any support why give them your money?? I would move the car to an Independent Garage also get the original Turbo back (why Northampton ?) If you talked to someone like GAP Turbo Chargers in Bristol I am sure they will collect your car fix it for a sensible cost and you will have a Warranted repair that will be supported. That would be my course of action for what it is worth Dave

Morning Fawad Welcome to the Forum Oh dear bit of a Saga First your questions 1. BMW do not make Turbos they buy them in, as a Company BMW do not repair anything they simply change New part for Old at the Clients expense hence the ££££ cost. As BMW found no sign of leaks to the loom I would challenge the Warranty Company as it is not an Injector fault 2. Garrett are one of the oldest turbo manufacturers ( around since the early 50's) they have been around longer than BMW have been fitting turbos to their cars? So a Garrett Turbo is at least as good (possibly better) as OEM quality depending on it's source. As your Warranty is not in place I would get a good independent to change the turbo or at least its actuator BMW have washed their hands anyway Good Luck Dave

hi,think id be interested in coming along in my z4 please keep me posted. atb Paul.

Hi Dave, good Morning My car has been fully serviced since new by BMW and I have 31000 on the clock. Still getting 41.9 mpg

Hi I am thing of selling my z3 2.8 Orinoco where is the best place? To selling? I have A lot of paper work to go with the car . I would appreciate any help. Regards phil

Morning Chris The Reverse Camera may have disturbed the Video feed fingers crossed replacing it will sort the issue. Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins Neg first (a Dealer trick) it will reset any simple fault codes Good Luck Dave

This is usually caused by the SOS call battery needing replacement (see youtube videos).

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum On my X5's I reckon on around 60 to 80k so that does seem on the light side, however with my wife's Subaru we had the same advisory 3 years ago. I checked all the bushes and couldn't find any slack or movement ? It's passed it's MOT twice since then with no comment or advisories, we always use the same Garage for our MOT's so I can only assume a new tester who saw something I couldn't ?? I would check the bushes then if there is no obvious sign of failure and if you have no odd tyre wear, Knocks bangs or clonks wait and see what happens next year it is advisory after all Dave

Merry Christmas Dave and all the rest! thank you for all your help and knowledge and words of encouragement throughout the year. All the best for the new year and I’ll see you in 2024.

Like most of the electronics and accessories on your car BMW don't make it they buy it in OEM sensors are I believe made by HUF and are not as expensive as they are when packed in a BMW Box 🤣 The biggest cost/pain is the tyre has to come off to change them that is why when one failed on my E70 I waited for Tyre change time then did all 4 Dave

As the newer petrol models have a similar exhaust filter ?? Not read anything about the newer Petrols yet so can't comment My 3.0d X5 has a DPF and my mileage is below 5k these days but at least once a month it gets a good work out at motorway speeds which so far is keeping it clear So difficult choice more MPG against the possibility of lower maintenance Dave

Morning Peggy Welcome to the Forum 🤣🤣🤣 BMW Dealers have a twisted sense of humour don't they 🤣 Then they will tell you you should have a pair Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list (same as the Dealers use) put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will call up your model search the Light section for the part number for the Headlamp. Once you have it carry out an internet search you should find a replacement for about £200 upwards depending on source, any sensible home mechanic will be capable of changing them over Dave

First thing is get the bonnet open so you can sort issues As for diagnostics BMW ISTA/INPA is the best but you will need a laptop to mount it on. There are also i-Carsoft,Foxwell and Autologic that will work Dave

hi Demetrios Welcome to the Forum Sounds like you need a Diagnostic scan and a full service Dave

Morning Stu If this is for your Angel Eyes on the S53 I took a power feed from the where the ECU lives take off the lid and where the loom connects 3rd wire from the left is Red/white trace, earth I used the Headlamp earth so only running a single wire for power. This power feed is ACC switched but remains live for 20 secs after key out. You can test by sticking a pin into the wire and using a tester Dave

Happy birthday to my X5! …. Not me… I’m waaay past that. born today in 2002!

Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box. That will bring up your model then search the Trim Section Dave

Hi Dave, yes I am in touch with Erisin Customer services but they are suggesting obvious things that my installer has already tried, he did also move the fiber optic connection. Not sure why it isn't connecting, its got to be a settings thing I guess unless its just not compatible with NBT EVO 6? I am waiting for customer services to confirm if the unit is compatible with EVO 6 BMW software. Simon

Morning Jitendra Enjoy your new to you Beemer Dave

Morning Alexandra C-tec make excellent trickle/conditioning chargers I use mine once a month on my moth balled E53 4.6is and my wife's Subaru which see's low use It is very easy to lift the bonnet and un clip the charger Dave

Where is the car stored? Could you get a trickle charger or a solar panel to keep the battery topped up? I would cover it and have a small solar panel personally.

Few weeks ago I set off in my z3 , guage was on at least three quarters full. About 30 miles later it was going towards the red , hadn't brought wallet with me so slowly headed home. I could see the guage dropping ! I was in sport mode , driving urban and A roads , switched to normal mode to get home. No fuel leaks , reset mpg monitor and driving carefully was getting 24mpg semi urban. The way it drinks fuel it seems like a 4.2 Jag! Is this normal, it's done 35k miles and emissions are perfect . Or is it because I'm used to a 30d X5 for normal use that sips fuel by comparison.

High Stev Welcome to the Forum No one can diagnose a problem without investigating it, It could be anything from water ingress to a faulty unit I am afraid the only way is check and test all connections Dave

I could not replicate the issue

Morning Ted Welcome to the Forum If you are determined enough you can achieve anything, the question would be how practical it would be. As I understand it Petrol cars need to Euro 4 compliant or better Diesels Euro 6 or better. So if you can find an F70 2007 to 2013 4.8 petrol it will (or should be) ULEZ compliant. The Diesels I am not so sure as I have a couple of acquaintances who's F70's have been shown as none compliant. As a broad stroke 2015 or later for Diesel So back to your question if you upgraded the engine, emissions controls and probably a whole load of stuff I haven't thought of. Then took on the battle with TFL to get the car accepted as emissions compliant? At the moment they work on Registration/Year of Manufacture not actual emission output. I think cost would outweigh the cars value making it cheaper to trade it for something compliant. If you really want to stay with the F70 then the 4.8 is the answer if you find a low mileage model with the M-tec body kit brilliant. Hope this helps Dave

Hey @Greydog Thank you for your suggestion, it is very useful to me

That is definitely not the key for that car then, I would guess that someone has mixed up 2 sets of keys I would guess your BMW Dealer would charge about £150 (that is a guess) so check with them, at least you have a working key so can use the car while saving your hard earned cash. That is unless the seller says woops and has the other. Good Luck Dave

The remote may just need resetting to the car. It’s easy to do and there are loads of tutorials on the net. Just google key fob ews programming. hopefully it starts the car…. That’s the hard part.

Morning Ryan Sounds like a good buy Use google for test parameters for the sensors you should be able to check them with a multi-meter Fingers crossed it's the simple fix ENJOY Dave

👍 Very Nice ENJOY Dave

Morning Ciaran Welcome to the Forum If you aren't aware you can check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need, when you have it double click the part number and it will provide a list of alternates if they are available. You can also cross reference the part number with other models Good Luck Dave

So here goes: Very first car and others: Triumph Herald 1200 (12/50), white sunshine roof and red seats TR6 x 3 Porsche 924 Turbo Range Rover P38 Jaguar XJ x4(XJ40, X300 & 2 x 308X) Daimler Super V8 LWB Sabb 900 cab Volvo V70 Mini one Range Rover L322 BMW 120i E88 ------ Wife's cars Morris Marina Citroen Diana (2CV) Golf cab Series 1 Golf Cab new version

Morning Stu Wife's Cars, Ford 1600e, Triumph 2500 Estate, Volvo 760 Estate, Volvo 960 Estate, Volvo T5 Estate x 3, Subaru Legacy Estate, Subaru Outback 3.0 R Perrin. Company Cars, Vauxhall Cavalier, Hillman Avenger Estate, Ford Granada, Ford Scorpio, Rover SD1, BMW M5, Peugeot 605 (like a kit car in reverse the more you drove it the more it dis assembled it's self) First car Sunbeam Talbot 90 Convertible (first car I rebuilt) Mini, Mini Cooper 1275s, Rover P5B, Healy 3000 (Mistake) Jaguar Mk2 3.8, Sunbeam Rapier H120, Ford Sierra Cosworth Whale Tail, Ford Sapphire Cosworth, Lotus Carlton, Range Rover (another mistake) , Volvo Estates 850 T5, 850 T5R, V70 T5, V70 T5R, V70 T6, Mercedes Estates AMG E55 x2 Mercedes AMG CLS 63, BMW X5 4.4, BMW X5 4.6is, BMW X5 3.0D Dave

Thanks Dave, wise words 😉 The car also needed seals and bearings in the rear diff- this had nothing to do with the original fault , and I had the oil changed in the front diff. I don't think she was particularly well cared for. So now its back to the smoking exhaust issue I was banging on about in another thread ! Rod

At least your back up and running, and on the plus side the car will feel quicker now your Wallet is so much lighter 🤣🤣

Hi Micky Check the sale of goods act, under the sale of goods act the item must be "Suitable for Purpose" Clearly with odd tyres and a Gearbox issue it is not. Put everything in writing,email them no Text or Whats App and only phone to confirm items in the email. Don't let them try and get you to fix your own car using the Warranty you have paid for !! In your email make sure that you outline the time scale when you got the car, when the fault first occured, when you first contacted them about it. Tell them you have no confidence in driving the car with a fault. Ask them to either have the car repaired for you (Don't forget a courtesy car while yours is off the road) Replace the car with the same or equivalent model or collect the car and refund you in full. If their choice is repair you need a time scale this has to be done in a Timely manner. Just don't let them give you the run around Dave

Morning Bruce I will assume the Battery is correct and in good condition. You need to spend some time testing "pulling fuses" then check with a multi meter to isolate systems and find the culprit. If you are not able or prepared to do that then you may find out why some say BMW stands for Breaks My Wallet 😆 If your stuck try and find a good Auto Electrician but remember tracing something like this is time consuming and time at an hourly rate adds up, whoever it is doing the work Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum The fact that codes are self clearing would indicate they are symptoms not the cause. Check the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle Body I have experienced faulty units with both that didn't throw codes. Your restricted performance would make me think first throttle body or throttle pedal position sender as a starting point. When you scan are all control units seen or are some not responding? (Greyed out) Good Luck Dave

Hi Chris If you aren't aware look at www.realoem.com (BMW Parts List) put the last 7 digits of your Vin in to the search box it will call up your model. Then search the brake section if you double click the part number it should show any alternative Part Numbers and Models they were used in An alternative I have used on a 325i that had a handbrake not holding because the teeth on the quadrant had worn was 15mins with the welder and a file to build up and reshape the worn teeth. 3 years later it is still working fine (our Sons friend) Stu is right about Quarry Motors but if they can't help try Googling BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are about half a dozen from memory worth an email or two Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum If the Z4 is a drop top you have the weather for it 😅 Dave

B) :D I found this site trough FB. I am glad that I found it. I will give it to a few of my friends. :D