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  1. What’s good: Has become the urban 4x4, thanks to huge road presence and BMW badge. Six-cylinder, 3.0-litre, 231bhp petrol or 184bhp diesel and 286bhp, 4.4-litre V8 engines. Better than Range Rover, Discovery or Mercedes ML on the road, very capable off-road. 347bhp 4.6iS in UK late 2001. Three-year unlimited mileage warranty from November 2001. Minor cosmetic and major drivetrain changes, summer 2003. Revised 4.4 V8 has 320bhp and six-speed auto, 3.0d with second-generation common-rail diesel rises to 218bhp yet is capable of 32.8mpg (Combined). New x-Drive system enables power and torque increases to produce usable traction in all situations – new X5 vastly better to drive on and off-road than the original. Four-star NCAP crash safety rating January 2003; five-star rating for latest model June 2003. Diesels have exceptional residual values. BMWs generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct reliability index (www.reliabilityindex.co.uk). Average for breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which? survey. What’s bad: One-star NCAP rating for pedestrian safety. 4.4 V8 expensive and thirsty. High-spec diesels were commanding premiums of up to £5,000 as late as September 2002. Diesel isn’t as economical as you might expect. As with any new BMW, options can hugely inflate the price. Rated one of the most expensive off-roaders to run in 2003 Which? survey. What to watch out for: Reports of blown turbos on 530 diesel saloons may also apply to X5 3.0d. Recalls: 31/1/2001 (cars built 21/9/2000-19/1/2001): possible fault with steering column joint. 16/11/2001 (built 11/11/2000-30/9/2001): fault with radiator fan motor could lead electrics to overload, fan motor to fail and a small electrical fire to result. August 2002: 56,000 X5s recalled worldwide because brake pedal shaft can work free (affects UK imports built up to 2001). 31/7/2002: Bush on brake pedal mounting shaft and pedal itself may come off (affects 1,971 cars). 3/2/2003: Front brake hose could rub on tyre. Clip to be fitted. 24/2/2003: Seatbelt tensioners may not be securely crimped.
    7 points
  2. here is a link to all bmw owners hand book pdf file free to download http://bmwsections.com
    6 points
  3. Just for our own research, could you please tell us how you found this forum. If It was by referral from another member, please name and shame :P
    4 points
  4. Good afternoon. Here will be a short guide for to clean your car to the highest standard. I have been cleaning cars to a high standard for 3 years. I will post links with Halfords as easiest place to buy from This will not include wheels or inside What you will need: 2 Buckets Access to fresh water (hose preferably) 1 wash mitt Microfiber cloths Shampoo Clay bar Back to black Polish Wax (dark car) Wax (light car) Step One. Rinse your car using a hose, on a medium pressure setting, no need to jet wash, this is to remove bird crap, leaves and other 'big' imperfections. Step Two. Fill one bucket with clean water (fresh), fill one bucket with warm water and a cap of shampoo. Add this last, and mix with hand, otherwise will foam up too much. Step three. Wet the mitt in the shampoo bucket, and using a circling motion start to clean the car. When residue is getting minimal, rinse the mitt in fresh water. Shake the mitt around, and rinse it. Then put mitt back into the shampoo bucket. Complete car using this method. Step Four. Rinse off using hose Step Five. Open the clay bar pack, soak in warm water and tear off a small piece about an inch wide and 5mm thick. Use the 'Rapid detailer' it's a spray and will create a mist. spray onto panel and use the clay bar in a small circular motion, if the bar is getting stuck, use more spray. once it runs smooth, move to the next area. Concentrate on a 5cm at a time, try to make this how big the circles are. If you look at the clay bar, it will be brown/black, flip around and continuously check. Clay bars will remove ground in dirt and tar splatters If you drop it, best to get a new piece. Step Six. Wash car. Yep. Using the two bucket set up, wash again, this will remove all residue left by the clay bar. Step Seven. Rinse using hose Step Eight. Dry using 3 microfibers Try to dab rather then drag Step Nine. Polish. Apply a small amount into a folded microfiber cloth, fold onto itself to create a bigger surface area. Pressing quite hard make small circles. Do this all the way round the car. When you get back to where you started it will have gone quite flakey/ crusty. Using a new microfiber cloth small circles to remove polish. Step Ten Waxing time. Using the application pad, make swirls, you do not need to press hard, just make sure the car is covered. It will haze quite quickly which is fine. You do not need to use too much in one area, just so its covered will be fine. Again go round the car until you come back to where you started. Then using the last microfiber cloth, remove as you did the polish, in small circles. Step Eleven Take pictures This is a W reg (2000) and the results are outstanding. Tip: Don't skimp on products. If you want your car to look the bomb, you need to spend money where it matters. I highly recommend buying the products as suggested
    4 points
  5. INTRODUTION... It may be the cheapest BMW you can buy, but the smallest of the line still packs fine design and handling poiseIt may be small – but it’s every inch a BMW. That said, the 1-series jostles for your buying cash against some serious opposition: Audi’s A3, the Mercedes-Benz CLC/C-class sports coupe and upmarket version of the Volkswagen Golf. It carries a couple of aces with it, though, writes Ray Castle of motors.co.uk. First for some buyers theBMW badge is to hook them. Second, it’s a rear-wheel drive car in a chunk of the market where most are front-drivers. This gives it a sweetness and balance in its drive that no rival can quite match. 1-series comes as five-door hatches, two-door coupes or as a soft-top. Here we’re focusing on the five-door because it’s by far the commonest. HOW MUCH SHOULD I BE PAYING ... Though the first 1-series are now six years old they lose value slower than most, so you’ll need £7500 even for a 2004, 54-reg 116i with 60,000 miles, though you might also find a 118 diesel showing higher miles for that money. Push the budget to £10,000 and you’ll get a 118 turbodiesel Sport from 2006, 56-registered and with 75k miles. Add to your cash pile so you’ve £12,000 and a 116 ES from 2007, 57-registered, that has just 25,000 miles recorded is yours. If you’ve £15,000 to spend, you can buy a 188 SE that’s covered just 10,000 miles and is from 2008 on an 08-reg. WHATS THE BEST MODEL... BMW isn’t over-generous in equipping its cars, so entry models have plastic wheel covers and do without air conditioning, although all have six airbags, anti-lock brakes, remote locking, electric windows and a CD player. Move up to the ES model and you’ll get all that plus air conditioning and alloy wheels, while the jump to an SE model rewards with digital air conditioning, an arm rest and a wheel with multi-function controls. Finally, the Sport brings bigger alloy wheels, lowered suspension and a sporty-trimmed cabin, plus all you’ll get on the SE. Engines run from the 115bhp 116i, which has enough power but isn’t exactly sparkling, to the 130i M Sport, which packs a 3.0-litre, 261bhp engine that delivers true performance car speed. For most buyers, though, the 118i or 120i petrol models are the ones to have, and they produce 135bhp and 150bhp respectively, although the 118 diesel with 120bhp is a good all-rounder, too, while the 163bhp 120 diesel is quick but economical. Diesels are pricier than petrols, so you’ll have to settle for a car a year older on a set budget. We’d go for a 118 diesel SE, or a 118 or 120 SE petrol. Most 1-series have manual gearboxes but those with automatic transmission, while scarce, aren’t usually dearer. From 2006, BMW introduced Efficient Dynamics, which improved fuel economy and lowered emissions across its engine range. A year later, most 1-series gained Stop-Start, which stills the engine to save fuel whenever you’re halted in traffic and you pop the gears to neutral. To re-start, you just dip the clutch and the engine fires. As with its other models, BMW offers a huge array of extras. Look out for well-specified cars but don’t pay extra for them. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY ONE ... BMW’s Approved Used scheme is among the oldest of its type and also ranks as one of the best. Cars get a bumper-to-bumper pre-sales check and any problems found are put right. They’re also sold with at least a year’s warranty cover and breakdown assistance, too. All BMW dealers offer the scheme and most of the cars are relatively new and low-mileage. Prices are often (but not always) on the high side. You also find 1-series at car supermarkets, often at keen prices. For older, cheaper cars, independent dealers would be the first place we’d look, particularly if they specialise in the marque. Finally, don’t rule out the private ads because you might find a bargain nestling among the classifieds. WHAT SHOULD I LOOK OUT FOR ... Relax. All the signs are that the 1-series is exceptionally built and soaks up the miles with little need for more than routine servicing. You should check, though that the gearbox feels slick and precise on high-milers – if it feels sloppy it may need a rebuild soon. On the other hand, if yours has done 10,000 miles of less and the manual shifty feels tight – don’t worry. It’ll just need to cover more miles to loosen it. If the car has Stop-Start, drive it long enough to see that it works correctly – there have been a few cases of the system malfunctioning. BMW issued a recall on cars made between September 2004 and May 2005 to fix a fault with the rear suspension, so if yours is that old, check that the work’s been done. The car’s computer tells you when a service is due so check that one’s not due soon and, if there’s a service history, verify that it’s genuine by calling the dealer who worked on the car last. Insurance runs from group 10 for the 116i to group 17 for the 130i. Servicing is reasonable for a prestige make, while BMW 4-Plus scheme offers sizeable main-dealer discounts for work needed by older cars.
    4 points
  6. Girlfriend and myself will be there
    3 points
  7. Holy Moly Just get well soon Stu Dave
    2 points
  8. Morning Joey Just looked back at my notes when we did it, First there is a cover strip that runs across the top of the front bumper/nose above the grills, this needs lifting and prising out. Then the rubber closing strip that covers the joint with the inner/outer wing needs removing. Now the two trim strips either side can have the plastic rivets lifted 6 aside from memory then the trims can be removed. In the wheel arch there are torx bolts 3 each side holding the liner, peel back the liner. There are 2 bolts holding the bumper to the bumper iron, now undo the screws above the grills and the bumper lifts forward. Careful of electrical and washer connections. Support the bumper (we put a blanket over it to protect the paint). Now there are just 2 really fiddly to get at torx bolts that hold each headlamp in place move the headlamp forward and change the bulb !! SO SIMPLE !! Having done it once I guess I could probably do it in 30 to 45 mins now, it was the head scratching working out how it went together/came apart that took the time. My local Dealer's hourly rate is close to £200 per hour (someone has to pay for the free coffee) so a Diagnostic session £130 is about par for the course.
    2 points
  9. Hi John.... I think he means like if you softly run your fingers over each button it’ll show what shortcut has been assigned to each button.. just softly without pushing button in.... let’s say you want radio 1 set for button 1.... tune your radio into radio 1 and then keep button 1 pushed until you see a message on Idrive screen saying “saved shortcut” ... then maybe you want the navigation option on button 5.. again open up navigation and then push and hold button 5 until you again see the message appear on screen... they will then be saved... try it and go into another radio station then push button 1 and it should change to radio 1 or whatever you set... hope that helps mate russ
    2 points
  10. My dad had a 1600E MK2 Cortina. Always kept it so clean. He died when I was 14 and at the time we lived in Wales. My mum wanted to come back to her family so we moved. We left that car in the garage. I pleaded with mum to try and sell it but she just said it wasn't worth much!.....Funny thing is I can still remember the reg no. KBL 820D
    2 points
  11. A little bit of background on the E36, which covers the '92-'99 3 series models (with some exceptions) . . . According to Bimmer Magazine, BMW E30 (and prior) engineers used complex math equations and heavy field testing to figure out required strength and durability, then they would double or triple the outcome, resulting in a fairly bulletproof car. Not so with the E36, which proved to be somewhat less reliable than the models before or after it, for two main reasons. The E36 is the very first BMW in history to be designed on CAD, and instead of extensive testing, they relied on the program to determine how robust a part or system should be. Secondly, they were engineered with recycling in mind. Which is a bit of an irony, since many owners can make these cars last upwards of 250-300 thousand miles. That isn't to say that the E36 is a shoddy Bimmer- they do more than live up to time honored BMW tradition, as the motors are quite strong, and light years ahead of the E21/E30 powerplants, along with numerous other significant improvements in comfort and performance. Still, many of them were poorly maintained and abused by previous owners, and as they're currently approaching the higher mileage threshold, you can expect to spend a little money restoring one. But by no means should you not consider buying one, because it's an absolute thrill to drive, and tends to be more reliable compared to other cars in its class, despite its shortcomings. Furthermore, it should be mentioned that while the following list may seem frightening, not all E36's will experience these issues, and since they typically are higher mileage cars nowadays, a lot of the problems have already been addressed by recalls and previous repairs. On to the list . . . . Engine Bay: -There is no doubt that the most notorious E36 issue is the water pump. 6 cylinder models up to MY ’97 were equipped with plastic impellers which would break apart and fail prematurely, stopping the coolant flow. Typical replacement interval is 60k, but they’ve been known to fail at as low as 20-30k, and often randomly. Replacement pumps employ a metal impeller. If you’re not sure that it was changed, do it anyway. Here's how. -Clutch fan can shatter and cause extensive damage to the radiator, belts and other parts in its vicinity. A common preventative measure is to remove it using a procedure known as the Fan Delete Mod, but diligent regular inspection of the blades and timely replacement should suffice. -The stock E36 radiator has plastic necks which can crack or break over time. Even if it looks fine, you may want to replace it, especially near the 100k mark, which is about the typical time when radiators fail. An alternative is to replace it with an all metal unit. The same goes for the plastic thermostat housing, aluminum replacements are available. Again, regular visual inspection is the key to avoiding costly damage. -The fuel feed hose at the engine fitting can harden over time and cause seepage at that location. BMW’s recall campaign replaced the hose and clamps. -Engine ticking can occur, particularly with older E36’s. This is characterized by a ticking sound (at idle) or the sound of marbles (under throttle) on the passenger side of the engine bay, most noticeable just after startup. It usually happens because engine oil can take some time to reach the VANOS and hydraulic lifters for lubrication. Most agree that this is normal, and is not something to worry about, unless you hear the noise all the time. In that case, the lifters may need replacement. The M50 was notorious for this lifter noise, and in severe cases BMW replaced the motor under warranty. However, on the M42, the problem is usually a failing chain tensioner, a relatively easy fix. -Rough or poor idling is generally attributed to a dirty idle control valve, or a faulty oxygen sensor. But it can also be traced to the VANOS unit, which can get stuck in the advanced position, requiring a dealership adjustment or replacement. -On some ’93 and earlier M42 engines, which includes both the E30 & E36 318is, the profile gasket can be eroded by coolant, leading to failure anywhere from 30-70k mi. This is a costly problem since the cylinder head has to come off so the gasket can be replaced with an upgraded version. Although using only BMW approved coolant can help slow down the process, it does not prevent the failure. -Some European variants of the M52 engine before MY ’98 experienced premature cylinder bore wear, resulting in a loss of power and compression. This was attributed to the sulfur in gasoline, and the only solution is to replace the damaged alloy block. If you suspect you have this issue, have a compression test done. -Drive belt idler pulley on some E36/M52 models may have been installed incorrectly during production, causing premature wear and eventual failure of the belt. This will occur during the first few hundred miles, characterized by excessive belt noise. -Throttle valve can get stuck on some models, causing uncontrollable acceleration. This affected 1996 E36’s (410,000 units), but other years may also apply. The problem lies in both the cruise control and throttle cables, where the plastic bushing on the cable end can break, allowing the cable sleeve to get stuck. BMW issued a recall campaign for this, and the solution was to install a spring steel retainer clip on the cable ends to prevent the outer sleeve from dislodging from the bushing. -E36/M44 engines may have bad ICV’s, creating a whistling noise, or causing a hard start or no start condition. The ICV was manufactured with incorrect tolerances between the rotary valve and the housing. The newer updated part number is 13 41 1 435 846. -M50 engines with VANOS produced 1/92 to 8/94 may have problems starting in cold weather below 46 degrees fahrenheit, or in high altitudes. Symptoms include a check engine light, long cranking times, black smoke from exhaust, and wet spark plugs. When this occurs, the EPROM needs to be reprogrammed by the dealer (MoDiC programming software version 5.1 or higher). Transmission & Final Drive: -A faulty guide sleeve on the 1st & 2nd gear may cause the tranny to pop out of gear. Requires disassembly of the gearbox. -On manual trannies, 2nd gear can completely blow out, or it may refuse to go into 5th gear when cold. Though very rare, this problem is expensive and requires a rebuild or replacement altogether. -Squeaky clutch pedals are very common, the only solution is to replace the bushings with aftermarket parts, available from UUC Motorwerks. -Stock transmission mounts can cause excessive vibration or movement, resulting in missed shifts and engine over revving. This problem is commonly referred to as "the money shift". A number of stiffer aftermarket mounts are available at Bimmerworld. -Differential clutch pack retaining ring bolts can loosen or back out, eventually resulting in rear end failure. If you hear a ticking noise in the rear, have the final drive checked out. -Some clutches shudder when 1st or 2nd gear is engaged while the car is hot, or has been driven in stop and go traffic for long periods. This is due to a non-asbestos lining on the clutch plate. BMW apparently has a new lining available; however some new owners continue to experience this shuddering. -Flex discs (also known as Guibo couplings) can crack or shred prematurely. This coupling connects the driveline to the transmission. Characterized by a knocking under the tranny hump or a thunking noise under acceleration. Not overly difficult to replace. Antilock Braking System: -Faulty ABS pump motor relays manufactured prior to May ’96 can trigger the ABS warning light. -On rare occasions, the ABS warning light may glow briefly after turning on electrical accessories. This is a sign of a hardware problem with the ABS control module, which will need replacing. -ABS rear wheel speed sensors on ’92 E36’s had poor solder connections. If the date code is 0801 (80th day of 1991) or older, they need to be replaced. -On some ’93 318is and 325is, six bolts which fasten the bottom cover of the ABS hydraulic unit to its housing may not have been tightened properly during production. The proper torque is 15 Nm. If it’s looser than that, the hydraulic unit is probably damaged and should be replaced. Steering: -Many E36's had the lower steering column replaced as a result of corrosion; there was a recall campaign for this. -Power steering hose can leak. In worst cases, the condition eventually leads to hose failure, resulting in a loss of steering assist. -Worn tie rod ends are often noticeable as a judder under braking. This is commonly mistaken for warped rotors as it has almost the same feel. Suspension & Undercarriage: -Rear shock mount failure is a very common problem, and can occur in as little as 20k miles. The symptoms begin with a dull clunking noise in the rear over bumps or rough roads, indicating that the shock piston rod has separated from the bushing mount. This can progress into metallic noises as the mount bolts shear off if not replaced in a timely fashion. The broken mounts eventually damage and tear the rear shock towers. Stronger E46 mounts along with Z3 reinforcement plates are recommended for replacement, and even better aftermarket parts are available from outfits such as Rogue Engineering and Ground Control. -Weak front outer ball joints are typical on the E36. A common solution is to use stronger E30 control arms with ball joints preattached, simplifying the installation. All metal ball joints (Meyle) are another alternative, but at the cost of a slightly harsher ride. -Rear inner control arm bushings are another weak spot, and should be upgraded to the tougher ’96 or newer replacements. -Under (but not limited to) heavy racing or track conditions, the rear subframe bushing mounts can tear off the body, causing extensive damage. Though rare, this typically requires welding reinforcement plates to repair the body. -Rear trailing arm bushings can wear in as little as 50k miles, although there is debate on whether this is a fault or regular maintenance issue. Symptoms of bad trailing arm bushings include side movement of the rear end under acceleration, general looseness of the rear over bumps, and abnormal tire wear. United Bimmer has a DIY for this item. In a handful of isolated cases, the threaded holes for the console's 3 mounting bolts fatigued, allowing the console portion of the arm to break away from the car body. -Some E36’s may experience unusual wear along the outer edge of the front tires. This is resolved by replacing the upper strut to hub mounting bolt with an “E36 camber correction bolt”. It’s smaller in diameter than the standard bolt, allowing for ½ degree of camber adjustment. However, the dealer may not know what you’re referring to, as the documentation on this part (#07 11 99 00 58 7) is very sketchy. Internet rumor has it that there are some sort of legal implications to this issue??? Electrical / Electronics: -DME compartment flooding is a common problem for model years up to ’94. Symptoms are hard starting or no start condition after heavy rain or a car wash. Insufficient drainage allows water to collect in the intake plenum cowl for the heating/AC, and overflows into the DME compartment. BMW issued a service bulletin with an easy fix for the situation. -Earlier E36’s had issues regarding defective ignition coils from Zundspule and Bemis. They were replaced with Bosch coils. If you still have the older brands installed, replace them right away. Cracked coils can seriously damage the ECU. -Corrosion on electrical harnesses, particularly 2 and 3pin sensor wires, can result in erroneous readings and trigger warning lamps. Certain plug connections have a rectangular seal which comes off unnoticed, allowing debris to enter and raise the electrical resistance in the circuit, triggering a false warning. Often these problems are misdiagnosed. Some tin plated contacts have been replaced with gold by dealerships over the years to alleviate these issues. Problems include, but not limited to, oil level/pressure warning lamps, camshaft sensor, coolant level/temp sensors, incorrect fuel gauge & speedometer readings, and brake light warnings. Contact cleaner works well as a preventative measure. -Voltage regulators typically fail on 318’s fitted with Valeo alternators. The regulator can be replaced separately. -Power windows sometimes behave erratically, moving up or down only in 1” increments. This is attributed to a magnet on the motor shaft falling out of position. The magnet can be moved back into position to correct this problem. -A failing comfort relay causes the windows and sunroof to stop working inexplicably. -In rare instances, owners have reported major wire chafing in the trunk harness, causing interior and exterior lighting failures and numerous blown fuses. Visually inspect this harness from time to time to be on the safe side. -E36's with M42 engine and manual transmissions were recalled by BMW North America for incorrect routing of the oxygen sensor wiring harness. The wire could stretch and break, disconnecting it from the DME, and triggering the check engine light. -A capacitor failure in the climate control module prevents the blower from operating while the AC compressor is engaged. The lights on the control module will also dim or go out completely. Fortunately, someone has figured out how to fix this without buying a new module. -Glass breakage sensors on stock alarms supplied by Alpine can false trigger at times when the interior cabin temperature is high. -Radio problems have been reported, most regarding dimmed or no backlighting. This is a dealer fix, but a better alternative is to replace the radio altogether. -On some E36’s, most notably the ’95 M3, a faulty circuit in the safety relay can activate the hazard flashers and unlock the doors while going over bumps in the road. -The heater element on heated seats often fails and needs replacement. -Brake light switch failures are common, although there is debate on whether this is a quality control issue. Replacement is fairly easy. Interior/Exterior Fit and Finish: -Inadequate water drainage and/or rust proofing on some models causes rusting at the bottom of the front passenger side fender where it meets the door. -Brake ducts on earlier models were poorly attached and can be dislodged or fall off. This also damages or breaks off the external temperature sensor, which is attached inside the duct. -Early fog lamp lenses crack due to temperature related stresses, a warranty fix. -Some dashboards bulge up at the center air vent. Inadequate adhesion causes delamination problems on door panels. Midrange and tweeter speaker trim cracks are also common. -Glove boxes can sag over time, there is a fix for this problem. -Rear door noises on ’96 and later saloons are attributed to the type of rubber used on the door trim seals. -Sunroof and rear parcel shelf rattles are common. Replacing certain parts in the sunroof mechanism fixes the noise, and you can support the rear deck with some foam stuffing to eliminate the rattle. -Plastic headlight covers dull or get foggy. A number of compounds and polishes have been known to yield good results, but ultimately they ought to be replaced with the European glass units.
    2 points
  12. Come on Richard with 300+ hp and a strut brace you are to busy holding on to worry about the heater 🤣🤣
    2 points
  13. Morning Me Again Simple answer is yes, all the warnings are just a check box. From memory open either LCM or ZKE and at the left side open (again mamory) either coding or functions you should see a page of check box options just un-check the suspension warning Dave
    2 points
  14. That could make it hard to find in the snow !!!😁
    2 points
  15. thank you all, just an update, full service and swirl flaps off. MPG mixed driving town and about 3 miles on dual carriage way and 12 in town , computer says 33.4mpg and averaging 17.6 mph , she gets a blast of 30 miles each way on motorway shows 44.5 ish, no smoke . i will take out egr fully and exhaust thing mdf ?, does not seem to roar away but is ok for 2.5 diesel i suppose, i was lucky with swirl flaps slight cracking ready to break off, i was told not to remap as gearbox would soon go not built for more than 400 nm, thank you all iwill repost new year when rest is done
    2 points
  16. I once had wheel-bolts on a Mercedes that the dealership had overtightened. To get them undone, my tame mechanic had to use a 5-foot extension bar - and even then had to work really hard at it! He succeeded in the end, but the bolts had been so abused that two of them sheared off whilst being undone, and several others had visible signs of having been stretched. Even if there is no visible damage to the bolts, you should consider replacing them - you never know whether bolts that have been overtightened like that have been significantly weakened, and the cost of a few bolts is going to be a lot cheaper than losing a wheel at speed! Colin
    2 points
  17. Sounds great to me but then my 4.6 V8 averages 18 mpg but if I try I can easily get it into single figures 😈😈
    2 points
  18. Just the 5 at the moment though we do get "lodgers" and "day care" with the kids dogs so sometimes 7+ This is my current happy band
    2 points
  19. polish and wax are two totally different things. Car polish is a liquid applied to painted surfaces to eliminate scratches and dirt. It does this by containing abrasive elements that scrub the paint surface, actually removing a thin layer of the car's paint wax is applied to add a protective layer on top of a car's paint and clear coat. This layer of wax adds shine to the car's appearance and protects the paint from the elements, causing water to bead up and slide off. best thing is to wash the car, clay bar it then polish and wax it. hope this helps
    2 points
  20. OK Claire, time to put your tongue away, drooling is unladylike like...................;-)
    2 points
  21. haha yeah I have got the car now :) only just finished driving it now and very much enjoying it just want the running in period to end so I do not drive as captain cautious so much haha would upload some photos but so far not had a chance :)
    2 points
  22. I'd like to go to this, count me in. If we don't have a stand how are we going to find everyone?
    2 points
  23. Hi I have just joined, I'm in Cambridge/Haverhill with my 650i, look forward to hearing about any planned meets! Andy
    2 points
  24. just been given an estimate date for delivery of the 9th of June definitely ahead of schedule was going to be towards the end of the June not the start. Atleast I have a date to count down to now :D
    2 points
  25. Lol. .my bad but I love dogs so much ...hello pooch:)
    2 points
  26. A Lexus IS?????????? Not in the same league as a 3 Series, a Lexus with a manual gearbox is a dog and the diesel engine sound like a cement mixer that's went wrong Stephen
    2 points
  27. Could not agree more Claire & nice one Tom :)
    2 points
  28. Yeh it's been looked after fairplay even had the blind for the back, only got 40k on it....The roads by me are lovely :) if the weather is dry the roof is down I'm a right poser. ..pmsl
    2 points
  29. Either shy or so busy earning the money to keep our cars on the road we dont have the time to spend on the boards. :D
    2 points
  30. Hi Amy Count me in. Dont think wife wants to come so just me at the moment. Mike
    2 points
  31. Hi there, I love BMWs, first was E30 320, then E46 328, E46 330, E34 M5, E30 325 convertible, E92 335, now currently in E46 M3 CSL and loving it.
    2 points
  32. Hi Steve, I don't think it's a 5 min job but doesn't look too bad. I found this video whilst sniffing around youtube so it may be of some help to you:
    2 points
  33. I'd like to add to this little guide a few things people should watch out for when shopping for a 1er. If a model you wanna buy has mileage above 100k, I suggest you take it to an independent garage for a basic health check. There are several components which wear out, such as the suspension (especially the M Sport package); on crappy UK mainland roads the suspension gives up before 120k and may need replacing the struts (at least £400 for good struts alone).Don't immediately turn away a car which had its engine rebuilt by an independent specialist. Earlier 1ers (especially diesels) had problems with swirl flaps disintegrating and causing engine failures, but if the engine was rebuilt after 2007, these and many more flaws have been most certainly rectified. If unsure, check with the shop that has done the rebuild. Also, a newly rebuilt engine has new components in it, which will make it last much longer.Brakes and tyres are most common points of negligence by previous owners, by checking what tyres they've used, you can tell how they could have been treating the car. Lots of brake dust on the wheels, unknown tyre maker or not matching tyres may indicate poor ownership and servicing with cheapest components (ASDA oil anyone?).Inside the engine bay, check if nothing is loose, such as intake scoop, air box or engine cover. These may indicate poor servicing standards.Check for any "sweating" from engine components.One last thing: if you see a nice looking (and driving) 1er, don't be tempted to just buy it outright. Be patient and the rewards will be worth it. Research, dig into documentation, be thorough. Buying a car is not like buying a toaster.
    2 points
  34. If at anytime you would like to meet in South Wales, I would like to present our workshops as a meet location. I will personally be at your meet with fresh beaned coffee for all at anytime. I can also check your engine codes etc and allow some of your vehicles on our ramps to check the under carriage at no cost. (4 Ramps in Total). Sundays are best. Only a thought in the mist. My M5 is need of some attention from others in the same field. With great respect. Leon Profess LPG LTD.
    2 points
  35. bmw festival at gaydon is probably the next midlands meet i think here's a link http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/event/bmw-festival-2/#.UZcwcrWkrJg
    2 points
  36. No6 does not state wives. So I want to swap my wife
    2 points
  37. I have recently purchased my dream car a E60 M5, I have previously owned 323i sport and E39 523i , I look forward to meets.
    2 points
  38. Hotrods diner is a new American style car themed diner that will be ideal for BMW meets its in gravesend area as soon as its opened I will organise a meet but for now add them on Facebook to follow progress
    2 points
  39. Currently owned: Cosmos Black E38 728i Diamond Black E34 540i Orient Blue E34 525i Touring Cardinal Red '83 Capri 2.8i (the first car I ever bought back in 1992!)
    2 points
  40. You do it on purpose its going to happen. F1 cars can pull off without spinning in circles, im pretty sure a 328 can
    2 points
  41. I have my own say on this personally... I'm a 20-year old with a 7-Series BMW that about 4 inches away from the ground. Every driver hates young people. Every driver hates BMWs. Every driver hates the fact that my car is as long as a house. Everyone hates that going over speedbumps for me is like turning upto a 3D movie with no 3D glasses, you just have to rely on the noises to experience the true horror of what's happening with very little vision of what's actually going on. So naturally everyone hates it. Add all this with my personalised number plate and people are more than happy to make assumptions. In Luton (where me and Snypa are from) there's also this culture with ethnics driving posh cars. We have a strong population of Asian residents and they have this habit of renting superb cars out to their younger family members/friends. So on many occasions you will see a Lamborghini being driven by a much younger individual than is the norm, uninsured. Me and my close affiliation of friends are from a higher class than most Asian residents in these parts, so we're quite lucky to be able to afford better cars than the usual 19-20 year olds; MK5 Golfs, BMW 3-Series', my 7-Series and so on. But because of the whole association of the afformentioned culture with cars, we ALL suffer. So, the whole idea of me having my car I take the brunt of the 'oh that's his parent's car' 'he's probably a drug dealer' 'he's got that from insurance frauds' and so on. So ofcourse other drivers won't give me way. It is pretty much down to jealousy. Nothing else. Having nice things attracts two types of people Charlee. Enthusiasts who share your enjoyment and jealous people who want nice things but aren't prepared to make an effort to help themselves.
    2 points
  42. Been looking at wheels recently, found all this very confusing. But then I found this, I wont take any credit for it, only posting so it can help someone else. BMW 1 Series E81 04> 5x120 38-45 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 3 Series E30 Excl M3 82>90 4x100 20-30 205/55/15 205/45/16 205/40/17 3 Series E36 93>98 5x120 30-40 205/60/15 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 Optional Rear Upstep 240/40/17 255/35/18* 265/30/19* 3 Series E46 98>05 5x120 30-45 195/65/15 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 225/30/20 Optional Rear Upstep 255/35/18* 265/30/19* 3 Series E46 M3 99> 5x120 20-25 225/45/18 225/40/19 255/30/20 Rear Upstep 255/40/18 255/35/19 285/25/20* 3 Series E90 05> 5x120 30-40 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 225/30/20 Optional Rear Upstep 255/35/18 265/30/19 5 Series E39 96>02 5x120 15-25 205/65/15 225/55/16 235/45/17 235/40/18 235/40/19 Optional Rear Upstep 265/35/18 265/35/19* 5 Series E60 03> 5x120 15-20 225/55/16 245/45/17 245/40/18 245/35/19 255/30/20 Optional Rear Upstep 275/35/18 285/30/19 285/25/20* 6 Series 04> 5x120 15-20 245/50/17 245/45/18 245/40/19 245/35/20 255/30/22 Optional Rear Upstep 275/40/18 275/35/19 275/30/20 295/25/22 7 Series 02> 5x120 15-25 245/55/17 245/50/18 245/45/19 245/40/20 245/35/21 255/30/22 Optional Rear Upstep 275/35/20 295/30/21 295/25/22 Z3 96> 5x120 30-40 205/60/15 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 Optional Rear Upstep 245/40/17 255/35/18 265/30/19 Z4 03> 5x120 30-40 225/50/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 Optional Rear Upstep 245/40/17 255/35/18 265/30/19 X3 04> 5x120 40-45 235/55/17 235/50/18 255/40/19 245/35/20 X5 00> 5x120 40-45 235/65/17 255/55/18 255/50/19 265/45/20 285/35/22 305/35/23 295/30/24 the offset is all about how far the face of the wheel is from the hub. So as you said the smaller the offset the closer to the arch. The larger the offset, the closer the face of the wheel is to the hub, therefor creating more space between the face of the wheel and the arch. You also need to take into account the width of the actual rim. E.g a 9.5" rim with and offset of 45 will sit closer to the arch than a 9" rim with the same offset.
    2 points
  43. Hi Sam, The facelift comprised of new front wings with then indicators being made slimmer and more moddern making the old black plastic type redundant. The nosecone was also changed to accomodate a new type kidney grille which stuck outwards rather than sinking inwards.
    2 points
  44. For X5 and X6 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=17+42+7+795+757
    2 points
  45. 4 wheel geometry is where they get all 4 wheels pointing in the direction they should be,ie nice and straight,not sticking out/in or too much +/_ camber as to not cause any excessive wear on parts connected and most importantly tyres !! I used to go through a set of rear tyres every 6 months max until i got it done. Some of the best money Ive ever spent :) Ive had my current tyres on over a year now with no wearing issues at all :) and I dont hang about and also have the tendancy to do a little sideways action ;)
    2 points
  46. i have moved this topic, please introduce yourself in the new members area, thanks
    2 points
  47. 07891 00 36 36 Speak to a guy named Paul,tell him I passed you onto him,He breaks e36's all day every day. I get all my bits from him :)Top bloke :) p.s. hes based in Walkern,near Hitchin but he is also on ebay.Think his tag is e36-spares
    2 points
  48. Inspect the rear arches mate - common problem on that shape is rusty rear archs, aswell as the bootlid, bottom of the doors and front wings at the bottom. Ensure that all the electric windows work perfectly with no struggling what so ever. Give it a decent test drive and look out for any major noises from the soft top. As Gav said inspect the bushes, suspension components and brake lines. Doorcards are nice and secure (both of them) glovebox door isn't broken, the LCD display on the OBC isn't buggered, the climate control is fully functioning. Try the key on the doors and bootlid to ensure they haven't been replaced due to any accident damage. Just give it a good old once over mate :) Hope that helps :D
    2 points
  49. Ill start 320d 2003 115k Control arm bushings, Front links, Strut mounts, Rear shock mounts, and hand brake not holding.
    2 points
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