F31 2018 320d b47d20a

My wife and I have a 1987 E30 convertible. We just dropped a used motor, new top, and paint job. The issue we are having is that the rear brake lights work for only a very short time. We replace the fuse, and within minutes or hours, it blows again. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Thank you in advance for your help.

Prob a collector or enthusiast rather than auction. What are the thoughts?

a uneven idle, have check the usual things plugs coil pack . injectors .

i have had the drivers in the ECU placed to no joy. wondering if the ECU would need to reset to factory setting if so

dose any one now or have any suggestion's that could help be to get to the bottom if the issue

ches

Recently bought a E91 2.0 auto its a 2010 - having issues with P00BD code - so when cR is cold or sat a couple of hours it will start revs drop / fluctuate and I get P302 - plugs are good and had a new coil pack which is bosch

Also after driving about a mile or 2 get P00BD - no rev fluctuations etc - its had a new MAF - thats bosch too.

pcv valve is good all test show ok - vanos seals replaced and sensors cleaned.

Done smoke test and no visible leaks or excess are being taken in.

Have also disconnected battery for 30 mins then driven to reset as advised this may help but result is the same.

Tbh this is driving me up the wall - wondering if its either electrical or I am missing something - seriously considering calling it quits tbh - its a nice car but being a pain

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

After my post about the hardtop 3 days ago, other issues have now suddenly cropped up. But I wonder if they are anything to do with the fact I am currently driving around with the hardtop warning symbol on and a constant bong-bong-bong noise over the speakers because the tonneau cover appears not to be locking down even though it is flush with its surroundings.

• When I'm cruising in the higher gears, suddenly and intermittently the engine will accelerate all by itself even after I take my foot off the accelerator. While doing this it splutters a few times, then when I dip the clutch it spins up to 4.5 / 5000 revs, then slows back down again when I let the clutch in.

• I tried engaging cruise control. It worked OK for a short time, then the next time the car self-accelerated it cut out and now doesn't work at all - just a warning symbol on the dash.

• The speedo has started reading about 20 mph when I am very obviously going faster. Again this is intermittent and sometimes when I touch the brake pedal it reverts to normal, other times it doesn't.

• The ABS warning symbol suddenly comes on randomly, then disappears again shortly after. Ditto for the airbag warning symbol.

I have never had so many faults crop up on a car over such a short time. Can anyone help please?

Thanks

Mark

Am beginning to wish I'd never bought this car.  

The last time I put the hardtop down was 2 or 3 months ago and it worked fine. Yesterday I opened it and I noticed the rear boot lid (tonneau cover?) wouldn't fully return to its locked down position.  I drove to my destination with the 'roof fault' symbol showing and a constant 'bong bong bong' noise and on arrival tried closing it - the tonneau cover opened and the roof raised up from the boot but then stalled.

I gently pushed it as far down down to its fully up position as I could but it wouldn't lock to the top of the windscreen.  

Drove home with the roof held down. 1st attached is what it looked like overnight AND the windows wouldn't roll up - TG there was no rain last night. Then this AM googled the issue - the advice was to spray the various mechanisms with WD40 as it is prone to getting stiff if not lubricated.  I also checked the hydraulic fluid - that's fine.  

Having done that, it's worse than before - the tonneau won't fold down and neither will the roof go down to its fully up position AND when I tried pushing it down like yesterday it resisted a lot more and basically I felt I might break something if I tried forcing it any further  - so I didn't.  

This is currently what the mechanism will and won't do - https://youtu.be/IS0mSZ_kp78?is=itwQ4KIFBx3T2FHA

Can anyone help?

Mark

Is there a cheap way to add digital radio to my E93 convertible or could someone point me to a previous post on this?

Thanks.

Billy - Isle of Wight

I have a year 2000 E46 323ci that has an engine that is running really erratically and unpredictably. The car is hardly used, it passed its MOT in February this year but the running poor issue has been evident for over a year. The issue: sometimes the engine will start fine - no warning lights - smooth and lovely as it should be - drive it for 30 mins or so in local city traffic and without warning the engine starts to run really lumpy - all the warning lights come on and the car will hardly pull more than 10mph - pull off the road - turn the ignition off - wait - start again with the same problem - do this a few more times - then the lights go off and the engine runs fine again - for 30 mins or so. This can also happen in reverse - the car will be running smoothly - park at home - start the following day and it’s straight back to lumpy running with all the warning lights.

I have had the throttle body replaced, twice, the ECU cloned and replaced, a new air input ducting - all carried out by a BMW specialist but the problem continues. the specialist is unfortunately now not answering calls.

I’m not a mechanic and I’m fumbling around in the dark here - when it’s running well it’s a lovely car - when it’s bad it’s really undrivable.

my next thoughts are the vanos unit and/or solenoid valves - or as the car is worth so little - scrap it!

can anyone on this forum suggest anything - I don’t have access to code reading software - it would be great to speak to an enthusiast who might have some ideas - it can’t be a massive problem to solve as it can run really well - but just occasionally!

any help or advice would be greatly appreciated - or if there is someone in SW London who might want to have a look that would be fab - thanks in advance.

Roger M

The aircon still does not work and the compressor clutch just does not engage.

The car has been fitted with a new front control module, ihka and compressor.

I initially took it to a BMW specialist with the receipt attached which did not fix the aircon.

I have taken the car to BMW this year who were also unable to diagnose the issue. BMW receipt attached which shows the fault codes.

Has anyone else had this issue or got any recommendations?

Thanks in advance.

Hos dejo un video aver si alguien me puede hechar una mano, he cmabiado sensor de cigueñal y de arbol de levas, tmabuen los 2 sensores de picado y he comprobado la valvula de relenti y funciona perfecta

I’m hoping someone here might be able to point me in the right direction or share some experience.

I have relatively young 2021 BMW 330e (PHEV) that has recently broken down and is currently with a BMW main dealer. After diagnostics, they’ve advised that the car requires a complete gearbox replacement, with a quoted cost of around £10,000 (even with goodwill applied). This also includes the replacement of the 12v battery.

As you can imagine, this is a huge amount of money, and I’m struggling to accept that a full replacement is the only option on such a young car (45000miles on the clock).

I’m trying to explore alternatives such as:
- Repair or partial rebuild of the gearbox
- Replacement with a reconditioned or second-hand hybrid gearbox
- Independent specialists with experience in BMW hybrid transmissions

I’m based in the Midlands, but I’d be willing to travel if needed.

My main questions are:
Has anyone had similar gearbox issues on a 330e or other BMW hybrids?

Are there known specialists who can repair or rebuild hybrid gearboxes, rather than just replacing them?

Is the “new gearbox only” route really the only solution in these cases?

Any advice, recommendations, or even confirmation of what isn’t possible would be massively appreciated before I commit to such a costly repair.

Thanks in advance 🙏

Was wondering if you could help provide me with a valuation for my BMW (E36) 1996 323i SE. I am the 2nd owner (my friends father had owned from new), car has done 85k genuine miles.

I have just spent over £2.5k on Servicing and a load of work to be done for it to pass it's MOT. Previously I have also paid for servicing parts and new Roof Upholstery, It will be a reluctant sale; however I have just bought a new property and cannot afford the sizeable costs that accompany the car.

I am not sure what I can realistically expect for the car (it is pretty good condition - Bodywork and Upholstery are worn in parts); however I know that I will get more by selling privately than I will if I part exchange etc.

Thoughts/opinions most welcome.