In my zeal, I removed the wrong sensor and can’t replace it . Can someone tell me what this piece with the sensor attached and I can just replace the sensor or if I need to replace the whole metal piece?

Thanks in advance.

Iyahsu

Got my X5 in November 2025. The transmission light came on and it turns out there was hardly any fluid in the gearbox. I've since had a full gearbox service.

Unfortunately, the gearbox keeps losing fluid but there are no visible leaks. There are no leaks either on the ground where I park. The radiator fluid is full and so is the engine oil.

There are no other lights on the dash. The ignition light doesn't always come on either. The gears are worse when starting off. Once the car is running it changes gears ok.

If this is a serious problem, I would rather get rid of the car. I can't afford to be spending endless amounts of money trying to sort it out.

I will be going back to the garage again next week to get the transmission fluid topped up. It's roughly losing a litre of fluid then the ignition light comes on.

If anyone has any ideas, please help.

Thank you

Christine

At home plug in the Diagnostics and find Nothing ?? the issue didn't go away randomly the engine would cut out but no codes stored. Found a post on another Forum that detailed the symptoms could be 1.Crank Sensor 2. Injector 5 fail through water ingress 3. Fuel Filter or fuel pump issues. My problem was not finding any codes to give a clue as to just where the problem was. Then I took the car for a drive with diagnostics plugged in and Live Data running Hey Presto a code for Injector 5 recorded when the engine cut out 

So a set of Injectors ordered along with Glowplugs and Inlet Manifold gaskets (family is on bread and dripping) 🤣

My x5 2011 rear n/s air suspension hight lift sensor light is on all the time, it's 40 mil down ,I've changed the high lift sensor but it is still lit up on the dash and it's still 40 mil down

I've not heard the compressor come on , the other side is ok ,

Can anyone advise me please

John

I had some engine trouble with my F15, m50d. After valves and piston were soughted out, my machanic reassembled the motor but now there's bad overfueling and no boost. He suspects vacuum pipes issue? Can anybody help? I need vacuum diagrams or anything like that to help fix the issue. Thanks

Been reading this forum for quite a while but being lucky enough to not have had any serious issues with my old x5, I've never had cause to post a question. Being new to the forum, not quite sure if I'm posting in the correct place, and I've already searched the topics for my issue but without success. So here goes, I hope someone can help.

I have a 2007 x5 3.0 diesel, which we use to tow our touring van. On the way back from our last short holiday, it developed an intermittent speed related knocking which could be heard from the rear of the car. There was no specific trigger, sometimes it happened when pulling off, other times it happened on overrun.  Once in a while it would just start while at a constant speed, sometimes I could stop it by lifting off the accelerator, sometimes by speeding up. It did seem to happen more at lower revs when pulling away or uphill, but not always. I spent most if the journey convinced it was coming from the caravan, but having now left the van back in storage the knock is still present although not so frequent so it seems to have been made worse with the extra weight of the van hanging off the back.

It's definitely speed related and its frequency increases in time with wheel rotation. There's no gentle build up, it comes on and stays at the same loudness regardless of how fast it is although it may be a little louder on left hand bends when more weight sits on the drivers side rear wheel.

There's no other grinding or rumbling, and the knock is a very clean metallic sound, like hitting a tin can with a stick.

I'm not thinking suspension as it isn't brought on by road bumps or potholes, so my suspicion is leaning towards the wheel bearing/ rear axle area but, in truth, I have no clue.

If anyone can throw some light on the most likely cause, at least it will give me a starting point.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

135808 Valvetronic Servomotor, Position Sensors, Electrical:

Malfunction Permanent

194604 Diagnostic Module For Tank Leaks (NVLD), Electrical: Line

Disconnection

Permanent

164020 Intake Camshaft Sensor, Electric: Short Circuit To B+ Intermittent

108A10 PhausibiAir Temperature Sensor, Electrical: Signal Not Intermittent

164021 Intake Camshaft Sensor, Electric: Short Circuit To Ground Intermitten

Where I am puzzled is is the crank no start from the sensors or from the Valvetronic motor ? I’d like to know what you guys think of these codes and let me know what you think

BMW_X5xDrive35i_5UXKR0C34H0V75376_DTC_20260206184634.pdf

I'm new to the site and my 2011 X5 40d E70 is my first BMW (possible my last). The transmission light comes on. I've had it in the garage and the fault code is 4E9B. The garage have advised that the car needs to go to a gearbox specialist. Any advice would be greatly appreciated ☺️

First time owner, first post etc and I'm here looking for a bit of help please.

Bought a 2012 BMW X5 40d (125k miles) from private seller just before Christmas from private seller with FSH etc. However, on the drive home I'd noticed a strange noise......

Long story short, the front diff has gone (leaking oil) and I clearly need to get it replaced as it's very noisy and the smell of oil into the cab is horrible. I can't justify a brand new OEM part, and I'm nervous about getting a chinese one off of eBay.

So I thought I would put a post out to see who people would recommend within the UK? I've seen a couple of companies that do reconditioned ones, but I'm not sure that my existing one would be any good to return for a surcharge refund. I am also slightly confused with part numbers. The place I took it to to have a look for me were very helpful, and gave me a print out, but it lists two part numbers : 31508635861 (I believe to be a discontinued part?) and 31508635860

There's also a couple of other niggly bits with the car I'd like to get sorted:

Rear wiper mounting split - I'll either fix or replace
Drivers door handle light - advice needed, where to buy and how to fit
Front Window Washer jet - end one has broken, I've made a temp fix for now
Unlock crack - sometimes when I unlock, I can hear a cracking noise on the rear left, seems to be around the wheel/handbrake

Obviously those smaller bits can wait until I've got the bigger problem sorted out.

If there is someone out there who could point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance

Porsche got a puncture so I’m waiting for Tuesday to get it replaced, so the X5 knew… it just knew!

It’s started dropping into failure mode, the front indicator is intermittent and the drivers seat has stopped moving.

As the wife is the size of a squirrel, I can’t get in and drive it to the garage to take the wheel to get the tyre on.

Battery is saying 12.5 resting and 13.4 running…. It’s only a year old too… I can’t find the receipt for euro car parts as it was in my old van.

Any suggestions?

New battery …. Again?

How do I check the alternator? Could this be killing the batteries? I have neither the time or money to be swapping parts

The car is dropping into fail safe mode randomly and at speed (as always) so it’s not safe.

Fault on the scanner is showing throttle position sensor jammed or something… I’ll post some pics.

P17f6

P17e1

I am at a loss

purchased a 2008 x5, this error is on dash, i have had it plugged in and comes up under vtg - 55c3 - awd limp home control activated-no dsc specified nomina torque, garage seem to think servo cause when they told it to do something it didn’t basically.

Has anyone got any advice on how to DIY diagnose without paying a garage an arm and a leg, i have read about turning left to right will try tomorrow however most other advice ive seen is when other errors exist.

Thanks

I have a E70 2010 M Sport. The driver door only intermittently works.

The latch handle inside will not open the door, I can hear it operating inside the door car. The exterior handle will not open the door.

I have replaced the actuator, the latch cable and that still did not solve the problem. I looked at the electrics and it appeared the wiring to the connector socket into the actuator looked a little damaged, replaced this part of the wiring harness. This has not fixed the problem and I am out of ideas.

I usually give the door card a good few whacks and then door will then release.

Am I unlucky and could the new actuator I installed be faulty or should I be looking more at the electrics??

Can anyone help?? Thank you

cheers j

Just bought a 2019 X5 M50D. On the original build sheet it came with a display key but the key has been lost. I was just looking for advice on whether you can get a secondhand one and get it coded? BMW are charging £600 for a replacement 

thanks. 

Wednesday the passenger rear suspension decided to inflate to the max 5" higher than the drivers side had to drive home but because the cassis is being twisted it begins to rapidly wear the inside edge of the passenger rear and the outside edge of the drivers front !!

New tyres are booked anyway but could do without this. Get home OK next morning plug in and using ISTA look for issues a few I knew of (Glow plug controller and rear fog light) but no air suspension errors darn. Ride height sensors tested OK Compressor OK Control Unit OK ?? So into the diagnostic's program and calibrate and reset the ride height. Then an hour ago it did it again passenger side to the max but this time the airbag gave up and burst. 

Looks like I have a fun week ahead first find out why ? Then replace the airbags and reset everything again maybe change the ride height sensor as a precaution

Update later

Dave

My son has an x5 plug in hybrid that says he should be able to do 51 miles on a full charge.but he is only showing 39 miles on a full charge. 2021 model